MegaSquirt trigger wheel sensor solution, What's your design?? Options

[draganc]

Hi guys!

I’m planning to upgrade my D-jet system on a 75 2.0 (2056) with a MegaSquirt system.

I’m still debating how to mount the trigger-wheel-sensor and would like to see some of your solutions.

Thank you for your input,
Dragan

[draganc]

Here's my 36 tooth wheel design mounted with AC pulley to drive my 547 fan design.

Are those screws in the wheel? Interesting solution!!

[904svo]

Here's my 36 tooth wheel design mounted with AC pulley to drive my 547 fan design.

Are those screws in the wheel? Interesting solution!!

YES! 1/4 x 20, Then I cut down the heads of screws down and cut the threaded
part flush with the aluminum wheel.

[draganc]

Here's my 36 tooth wheel design mounted with AC pulley to drive my 547 fan design.

Are those screws in the wheel? Interesting solution!!

YES! 1/4 x 20, Then I cut down the heads of screws down and cut the threaded
part flush with the aluminum wheel.

Why?

It's a great idea, but I guess a lot of work for a $30-50 parts.

Which sensor are you running?

[JamesM]

Changing the db-37 out on a stock board is probably going to be more trouble then it is worth. The actual through holes on the board where the db-37 attaches are a lot smaller then you would proabbly want to try to do anything with. If you already have an assembled megasquirt I would just leave it alone, the connector does work, it just might not have been the best design decision and you need to be carefull with it.

The boards i had made up do away with the db-37 header completly, i did not see an easy way of avoiding it with the stock boards.

The db-37 connector was the main reason I put off buying a ms as I also thought it was a data transmission connector. I recently got a bunch of ms stuff from a ebay seller off of a car he put back to stock to sell. I am going to change the connector but haven't picked a good replacement, it's on a back burner as the ms is mainly a learning tool for a possible universal ecu for my simpler toys. My 75 1.8 with original fi will probably be the test motor on a stand to get started but I also have a good tt suby motor thats not obd2 to also play with. My son thinks it is easier to use a suby ecu with opensource tuning and bypass the ms headaches.

I really like cop ignitions but the parts aren't cheap.

[904svo]

Here's my 36 tooth wheel design mounted with AC pulley to drive my 547 fan design.

Are those screws in the wheel? Interesting solution!!

YES! 1/4 x 20, Then I cut down the heads of screws down and cut the threaded
part flush with the aluminum wheel.

Why?

It's a great idea, but I guess a lot of work for a $30-50 parts.

Which sensor are you running?

It's was the only way I could do when running a AC unit and a DTM type fan. I use
a Hall Efect sensor for pick up (3 wires).

[draganc]

It's was the only way I could do when running a AC unit and a DTM type fan. I use
a Hall Efect sensor for pick up (3 wires).
[/quote]


ah, I see.

[charliew]

If I changed the connector my idea was to connect to the leads already in the holes and cut them off the back of the connector and only do the higher amp ones and leave the db-37 for the other original stuff.

It sounds like I need to leave it alone and just see what you come up with. I'm in no rush. I did check out the board and look at the solder joints with a magnyfing glass and it is a ver3. I'm a little concerned that the pot has been turned too far though as I tried to turn it a few turns gently and never felt a stop. I think I remember it may be a 10 turn pot and maybe I just didn't turn it far enough but I didn't want to push my luck until I do a little more research.

For me sequential would only be beneficial on a high reving motor with a plenum and long runners with a egt on each exhaust port. Subys are bad about port 4 I think getting lean, thats the one that has more piston failures, but 3 seems to be the hottest and thats on a watercooled motor.