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> Replacing Trunk Rollers?
chris914
post Nov 7 2004, 12:09 PM
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Hi,

Whats the trick to replacing the rollers for the rear trunk?
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Lou W
post Nov 7 2004, 12:33 PM
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Did you try the Classic Message Sections?
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d7n7master
post Nov 7 2004, 12:42 PM
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If I had to do it again - I wouldn't... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
My plastic/stock roller on the drivers side broke one day when I opened the trunk. When it broke, it damn near hit me but missed. That should have been an "across the bow" warning - but no - not me. I bought the aluminum replacement rollers. WOW!!! Cool. I could see that I just needed to pry the bar down & push the new roller on. So I grabbed my BIG Craftsman screwdriver/prybar. Close but no cigar. Couldn't quite pry the bar down enough due to the angle req'd. So I made a tool out of some titanium tubing I pulled out of scrap at work. Cut it to a length that would give me the correct angle. Put the tool over the bar on one side, pushed like a s.o.b. & slid the roller on. WooHoo!!! Not so bad. Cool tool! But when I did the other side, the tool slipped off the end of the bar. At the time I was pushing with all I had... result? - blood - mine. The tool had hit my thumb so hard, the force split my thumb open. I came back the next day & installed that roller very carefully. Next time, if there is one, I'll buy the truck kit that eliminates the rollers. Do yourself a favor - check it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)
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DJsRepS
post Nov 7 2004, 01:14 PM
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The spring is killer. Made my rollers spring rides on a ball bearing with fender washers as a guide and smaller washers to position bearing and alan lock ring to hold it on. Pic inc


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scotty914
post Nov 7 2004, 01:26 PM
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heres a way to do it with out breaking a sweat or skin
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....p?threadid=3829

makes it real easy look for the post by retro 74
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914GT
post Nov 7 2004, 01:28 PM
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I hope it isn't 'verboten' to do this, but read this post on the PP board: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....unk+roller+tool
Scroll down toward the bottom.
I made a simple tool out of 1/2" tubing, and somebody else had good luck with it to release the tension on the rod.
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McMark
post Nov 7 2004, 01:46 PM
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QUOTE(DJsRepS @ Nov 7 2004, 11:14 AM)
The spring is killer. Made my rollers spring rides on a ball bearing with fender washers as a guide and smaller washers to position bearing and alan lock ring to hold it on. Pic inc

Any better pictures? All I see is a yellow and gray blob. If you're having trouble with close-ups, hold the camera farther back and use the zoom function.
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Rusty
post Nov 7 2004, 03:00 PM
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The rollers are evil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Get Craig's rear trunk shock kit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)
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Rhodes71/914
post Nov 7 2004, 03:09 PM
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QUOTE(Lawrence @ Nov 7 2004, 01:00 PM)
The rollers are evil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Get Craig's rear trunk shock kit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

I currently have a bad roller on my trunk that still works but poorly. I was messing with the spring system to try and fix it...I GOT SCARED... forget that whole system.

Quick phone call to Craig at camp914 and $40 and a couple days later I had some shocks for the rear trunk.

I think its the way to go.
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DJsRepS
post Nov 7 2004, 03:46 PM
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better camera and pic


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DJsRepS
post Nov 7 2004, 03:47 PM
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another pic


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Lou W
post Nov 7 2004, 03:48 PM
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QUOTE
Rhodes71/914 Posted on Nov 7 2004, 01:09 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QUOTE (Lawrence @ Nov 7 2004, 01:00 PM)
The rollers are evil.  

Get Craig's rear trunk shock kit.  

-Rusty  

I currently have a bad roller on my trunk that still works but poorly. I was messing with the spring system to try and fix it...I GOT SCARED... forget that whole system.

Quick phone call to Craig at camp914 and $40 and a couple days later I had some shocks for the rear trunk.

I think its the way to go.  
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I'm converting both my front and back over too.
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DJsRepS
post Nov 7 2004, 03:49 PM
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test port


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rhodyguy
post Nov 7 2004, 03:54 PM
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raise the trunk. use a deep 8, 9,or 10mm(i forget) socket and extension. slip it over the spring end. it will push down easily so you can slip the roller on. if you are going to stay with springs, use the metal rollers. you need the correct fuel line clamps. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
kevin
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TheCabinetmaker
post Nov 7 2004, 03:57 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Kevin. done it a few times. 10mm deep.
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Dr Evil
post Nov 7 2004, 04:39 PM
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Chris,
I have the trunk shock kit and find it to be a better invesment. The springs put a lot of tension on your trunk hinges and will ultimately help them to fail where as the shocks only put force ont he trunk when its open. You can come by and check out my install if you like. If you want help installing the rollers I can do that too. It was easy the first time I did it with a 10mm socket and extension.
Mike
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Dr Evil
post Nov 7 2004, 04:41 PM
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DJsREPS,
You really should replace those hose clamps on you fuel lines for the correct type (smooth). The type you have eventually will cut into your hoses.
HTH
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chris914
post Nov 8 2004, 04:04 AM
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Thanks everyone for the input.

The car is for Autocross use only. I'm going to take the springs and rollers off all together. Get rid of that extra weight.

I'll will but a stick in the truck if I need to hold it open. lol
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plas76targa
post Nov 8 2004, 02:33 PM
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Chris, and others who may contemplate this..

Instead of a deep socket, I used the spark plug tool out of my 9-elebin tool kit. the hex end fits nicely over the spring steel. Get a helper to push down on the spring while you swap the plastic for the new aluminum roller. Schweet and easy change-over.

'course I can understand your current approach..
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ClayPerrine
post Nov 8 2004, 03:45 PM
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Take a 12" cresent wrench. Cut a notch in the loop on the back end until you have a C shaped opening instead of the loop. Hook it over the torsion bar, and pry down the torsion bar until you can change the roller.

Cheap, easy, and you already have it in your toolbox.
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