Transmission, Clutch won't engage Options

[jsaum]

I seem to back to square one with my car. Twelve years ago when I got the car the clutch wouldn't engage. I pulled the motor and transmission found what the hell hole was and am just now getting it back together.

Here's where I'm at I have replaced the clutch tube using a thicker tube from McMaster Carr, I have 1 1/2 of tube sticking out at the fire wall, it was almost flush before! I had the fly wheel surfaced, new disk and pressure plate, throw out bearing and replace the pivot cup. When the engine and transmission are assembled there's maybe 1/4 inch travel for the release lever before it stops on the housing. The pivot ball has one washer behind it which seems normal, I have read that you can add washers to space it out for better travel how many should I try to add? What is the normal travel on the release lever? The lever doesn't look bent I have a second tranny and lever and they both look the same. The new pressure plate and clutch are Sachs type M215 i believe this is correct. You can get an idea from the pictures what the cable looks like it is fully adjusted. Has anyone had this same issue?

Thanks for the help!
Jsaum

[Chris Pincetich]

I'm headed to the garage to put all this back together too, and might have some advice, but when you say the clutch "won't engage" this is because
1) you can't shift gears from the shift lever while behind the steering wheel?
2) you can't select a different gear manually moving the the small lever sitcking out the driver's side of the transmission?
3) Pushing the clutch pedal does not disengage the driveline?

If it is 1-2, might be problems with your shift forks or transaxle internals. If it is really 3, then you are asking the right questions....
If the flywheel has been worked on a lot it may be out of spec....
If you manually push the release lever, and the clutch works, your cable needs more adjustment

Good luck

[underthetire]

I can't 100% tell, but it sure looks like the PP bolts are way back, like the flywheel has been turned too far down. Think you can compensate with washers, but from the pics it looks way off. Also don't see the dowel pins in place on it either.

[scrz914]

That clutch lever looks awfully close to the side plate of the tranny. I don't think you're going to get enough travel. Sometimes when the flywheel gets resurfaced you have to use more spacers on the pivot ball. Maybe another one is in order or I've heard of folks bending the clutch lever.

[Dr. Roger]

looks like at least two washers are in order if nothing else is awry.

[jsaum]

I thought of the flywheel first off but have compared the depth to two others that I have, one that was lightend and one out of a parts car and it seems to be equal to them. Does anyone have the specs on the flywheel? How far down can they be resurfaced? The transmission will shift I can push the clutch in and grind it into gear it feels like there's not enough travel on the release lever to activate the clutch (release it) when the pedal is pushed in. With the cable adjusted all the way down on both ends the pedal still isn't fully up it still has about 1/2 inch before it will rest on the stop and be at equal distance to the brake pedal. I can grab the release lever and pull it back towards the front of the car and the pedal will rest on the stop. It does seem if the pressure plate and clutch were moved out from the fly wheel the release lever would contact correctly and cause the release lever to pivot towards the front of the car and work correctly. I guess I need to find out the specs on the flywheel first.

Thanks,
Jsaum

[underthetire]

Just measured my old one, it was 8.7MM from the ring gear to the PP mounting surface. It was about as far as I would take it. Not sure what actual specs are.

[jsaum]

Just measured the distance on mine it is 10 mm from the ring gear to the pp mounting surface I think this is the problem! The other flywheel I have looks better the distance is 6.7mm so it looks like the PP will sit down further allowing the diaphram springs to contact the throwout bearing and pivot arm correctly. Also Underthetire thanks for pointing out the dowel pins I'll have to get some are they anything special or can I use ones from the local hardware store?

Thanks,
Jsaum

[underthetire]

Just measured the distance on mine it is 10 mm from the ring gear to the pp mounting surface I think this is the problem! The other flywheel I have looks better the distance is 6.7mm so it looks like the PP will sit down further allowing the diaphram springs to contact the throwout bearing and pivot arm correctly. Also Underthetire thanks for pointing out the dowel pins I'll have to get some are they anything special or can I use ones from the local hardware store?

Thanks,
Jsaum

Well, they are 6MM od. Might have trouble getting those locally.

[jsaum]

Success! I pulled the dowel pins off of the parts engine put the new pressure plate and disc back in with the other flywheel I had. I used two washer to space out the pivot ball, the total height came to 3.2 mm. The release lever is now in the fully back position and the pedal adjusted up against the stop. I was able to start the car on the jack stands and go through the gears. I still need to adjust the shift lever, the play in the gear shift is tight in first gear and the shift knob is loose and comes off! All I need now is two gaskets for the CV joints and I should be cruising the neighborhood in a few days!

Thanks for the help!
Jsaum

[underthetire]

Congrats. I know some guys use silicon instead of gaskets for the CV's.

[scrz914]

You did all that in one day! Good work man. It looks correct now.

[jsaum]

Thanks! I have no life I will get this car on the road or die trying!
jsaum