Engine starting and running troubles Options

[scoobykvn]

I have a 1970 1.7 and I need help. The first problem is my starting issue. I replaced the ignition switch and checked all connections and have found no issues. When I turn the key I get the oil light on and fuel pump running like normal. When I turn the key to start I get the oil light to go off and the fuel pump to run. All I get out of the starter is a click, most of the time. Every once in a while it cranks and starts right up. The starter is also new.

Now, once it starts I can't keep it running. Previously I could get it to stay running and it would run very high rpm for about 30 seconds then start to fluctuate and eventually die. I replaced all of the vacuum lines and now when it starts it will only run for a few seconds. My guess is the tuning is way off. If this is the case, how do I find a good starting tuning point so I can keep it running in order to fine tune it? It is still fuel injected and all standard tune-up components replaced.

[realred914]

I have a 1970 1.7 and I need help. The first problem is my starting issue. I replaced the ignition switch and checked all connections and have found no issues. When I turn the key I get the oil light on and fuel pump running like normal. When I turn the key to start I get the oil light to go off and the fuel pump to run. All I get out of the starter is a click, most of the time. Every once in a while it cranks and starts right up. The starter is also new.

Now, once it starts I can't keep it running. Previously I could get it to stay running and it would run very high rpm for about 30 seconds then start to fluctuate and eventually die. I replaced all of the vacuum lines and now when it starts it will only run for a few seconds. My guess is the tuning is way off. If this is the case, how do I find a good starting tuning point so I can keep it running in order to fine tune it? It is still fuel injected and all standard tune-up components replaced.

Ok two seperate probelms here:

the starter is intermitant, did the soliniod get replaced too? if not, it could be a bad soliniod, however beofre you go after that make sure all your starter wires are clean and tight and the transmission ground strap is also in tip top shape. high resistances on the wires or graound can cause intermitant starting issues. eventually the grease in the soliniod drys up or water gets in (the seams on the soliniod are supposed to be seam sealed with sealer or tape to keep water out) if the soliond plunger gets dirty or rusty, it will not work some times, be slow to engage .

the D-jet is a very nice system but there are some basic things that can fail it.

first make sure your timing is set right and your points are good.

one thing to test is your head temp sendor near saprk plug num,ber three it should be very high ohms when cold (like a couple thousand) and it should drop when warmed to less than 100 ohms test with an ohm meter after you disconnect the pigtail wire, only ohm test teh senodr, not teh wire back to the computer!
besure to wiggle the wire a lot when you test, often the wire gets broken or shorted to the sendor case, that can cause all kinds of running probelms.

make sure your manifold pressore sendor is leak tight, you did the hoses, now make sure the diaphram inside is not leaking, suck on it, it should hold vacuum. also exacmine the wires at teh pressure sendor plug look for frayed wires and such, bad contact here will stop the car .

when the car does run, is the exhasut smelling real rich or not?

good luck

[McMark]

The oil light should not go off while the key is in the start/cranking position. It should only go off once oil pressure has been achieved.

Could be a defective ignition switch. The new ones aren't as good as the original ones. Where did you get yours?

[scoobykvn]

Update:

The oil light does not go off, I was mistaken. I installed a hot start relay and the starter issue seems to be solved. After this I was trying to get the car to at least run long enough to tune it, and after about 5 or 6 tries to get it running, The fuel pump stopped working. I checked all of the connections relating to the fuel pump and they all seem good. I jumped the pump and it is still functioning. Could this problem still be related to the ignition switch?

Also, when I got the car to fire up and run for a very short time, It did not like any throttle input. It would start to bog heavily then die. Is this my throttle position sensor? When I press the throttle down I do get injectors firing until about 3/4 throttle, then nothing.

[scoobykvn]

Nobody has any ideas?

[Kirmizi]

Was it having problems before you replaced the ignition switch?
Mike

[scoobykvn]

Yes, it was having pretty much the same problems. But they have not been consistent problems.

[underthetire]

Check your fuel pressure. Sounds like the pump isn't putting out the 30 PSI. required.

[scoobykvn]

For a temporary fix to get the car running, is there any reason not to just put a switch in line for the fuel pump? I can't seem to figure out why it won't run with the ignition.

[scoobykvn]

any opinions?

[scoobykvn]

So I now have the fuel pump on a switch for troubleshooting purposes and the car seems to start most of the time, but it still will not stay running. I set the static timing according to the 914 handbook. When it starts it only runs for a couple of seconds. If I give it any throttle it bogs heavily, then when I let off the throttle it revs up some then dies. If I keep pumping the throttle slightly it bogs then revs each time. It also sounds like it backfires and smells pretty rich. Does this seem like a fuel injection problem? TPS? Ignition?

[TheCabinetmaker]

Could be improper timing, or dwell, or maybe even a couple plug wires switched. Have you checked the fuel pressure? Did you have the fuel lines off for any reason? Starting then dieing sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Start with the basics. Check dwell, then timing. Check the plugs wire for proper orientation. Check the rotor and cap for proper fit.

[swl]

for the fuel pump. Check the fuel pump and master power relays on the relay board. Also the fuse.

[einic]

Check the lower points. The pump is supposed to stop if the motor is not running. (Impulses from the lower points, witch is also giving engine position for the injection nozzels)

[scoobykvn]

Checked static timing and dwell, checked pressure, and many other items and still can't find anything wrong. I think for now I am going to put some carbs on it and deal with the FI at a later time unless someone has another idea.