OT - Brake job on Jag S-type, how to compress the caliper for new pads Options

[plas76targa]

Working on K's 02 Jag S-type. Front brakes were easy to do. But on the rears I can't get the puck on the caliper to return -i.e make room for the new pads. Any hints? i've tried using a huge C-clamp, and a cheep compress tool from PEP Boys. Neither moves the caliper puck. The parking brake is off. How do i get the darned thing to move?

[ArtechnikA]

Working on K's 02 Jag S-type. Front brakes were easy to do. But on the rears I can't get the puck on the caliper to return -i.e make room for the new pads. Any hints? i've tried using a huge C-clamp, and a cheep compress tool from PEP Boys. Neither moves the caliper puck. The parking brake is off. How do i get the darned thing to move?

No idea. But the C-clamp compressor trick doesn't work on 914's either - maybe they have a similar threaded retractor mechanism? Just a thought...

[Rob-O 1167]

Working on K's 02 Jag S-type. Front brakes were easy to do. But on the rears I can't get the puck on the caliper to return -i.e make room for the new pads. Any hints? i've tried using a huge C-clamp, and a cheep compress tool from PEP Boys. Neither moves the caliper puck. The parking brake is off. How do i get the darned thing to move?

I don't know what the 'cheap' pep boys tool is like, but our Auto Zone has a tool that you can use that helps the piston back into the bore. I believe that the piston needs to turn as it's being compressed. In doing this it helps the parking brake reset for the new pads.

[Cap'n Krusty]

A lot of late model cars have electric parking brakes, and require a scan tool to retract the pucks. Do the pucks have grooves, little wedges, or holes in the face of the puck? If so, they're probably the twist-in variety. In that case, you have to lube the boot with some Wurth Rubber Care or silicone spray, then twist and push at the same time. The threads are usually pretty fine, and a lot of turning may be in order.

Ahhh ............., Google is your friend! At least it's MY friend!

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3013

It looks a bit more difficult than I expected, but you can do it with the right tools. HF sells a caliper tool set for this job on other cars, but I dunno if it'll work on Jaguars. For the amount of use it's gonna get, it's good enough for most people, and it's way cheaper than the Snap On version. BTW, it's always a good idea to clean and lube the pins, but that may be more than you care to attempt.

The Cap'n

[plas76targa]

Thanks Cap'n. By now I've got the passenger side done. I turned the piston clockwise and then pressed it in witht the C-clamp. That's' not exactly as the Jag forums discribed, sure hope that didn't screw up anything. I've been wrestling with the drivers side with no luck. bending the c clamp too. The piston does turn. i'll go try CC-wise and see where that gets me.

[plas76targa]

Well success. Not exactly the process found on the Jag forum. Their comments said the pistons on the rear calipers get turned or screwed back in, clockwise for the passenger side and counter-cc for the drivers. I turned the P side, clockwise and pressed in via C clamp. That did NOT work on that way. I turn cc-wise and the damn piston cam OUT! I turned it back in C-wise, which seemed to work until 3/4 inch to go. I added the cheapo PEP boys press for pressure and continued turning and Viola (the instrument!) piston was far enough in to complete the job. i did get a bit pf fluid leak near the end of pressing the piston in, so I'll have to check that this week.
Thanks all for the help and listening ear. now back to the 914!

[type47]

How's the fuel pump in the '14?