Carbs flood car quick, Looking for PMO book Options

[david63]

Wanted to sort out a couple of things and now I am driving the car more often (yeah, actually a 914-6 not on stands - I do have a 914-4 on stand though). I was wondering about the PMO's I have not looked into the jet size, etc and am needing some guidelines on jets, etc. The car runs great but it is very prone to flood when first starting.

I moved the fuel pump to the front of the car because in West Texas if you don't you will fight the vapor lock issue. While I was at it I replaced all the rubber lines (already had stainless through the body) and I bumped the fuel regulator on the return side of the system. I have learned through trial and error how to start when it is cold but it is a hassle sometimes. The engine is a 2.5 short stroke 6 and is quite strong so I do not want to set things too lean; however, I would not mind leaning it out a little so it starts a little easier?

Anyone have any info on PMO carbs (I should probably just get fax PMO for data huh)?. Thought I would throw in a couple of photos of the car. It is Michel Richards 914-6 that he purchased from Jon Lowe. I am enjoying the car and once the blue car is finished and sold I will redo the interior and do a couple of other things to the 6.

[PeeGreen 914]

PMed you PMOs number (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Can't remember his name but he is always happy to help.

[david63]

PMed you PMOs number (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Can't remember his name but he is always happy to help.

PM'd back. Thanks for the help. I have figured out a way to get the car started and it is great when it warms up (probablty my fault anyway as I "adjusted" the fuel psi regulator and when I find the sweet spot should be better).

This car runs well (thanks Michel - I loved the dual fuel pumps but one started leaking real bad around the housing so I moved the other one up front and will carry a spare if I go on long trips - the car runs great, I love it) and I am simply wanting to understand the PMO's and fine tune things. I will get with PMO.

Thanks

[Cap'n Krusty]

Remember you have to either fax or e-mail PMO, you can't call Richard directly unless he's given you the "secret" number.

The Cap'n

[PeeGreen 914]

oops... I gave him the secret number. Figured since he has PMOs he should have it anyway (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[charliew]

Also don't forget that the excess fuel will dilute the oil pretty fast and wash the cylinders especially at idle.

[david63]

Also don't forget that the excess fuel will dilute the oil pretty fast and wash the cylinders especially at idle.

Thanks for all the good advice. I won't call him until I get some data. I will fax or email to get a manual and start there. Again thanks for all the help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[GeorgeRud]

Sweet looking car! I'm sure the PMOs are like Webers in that they don't like a very high fuel pressure (~3.5psi seems to be good), and the needle valves can be overcome with excessive pressure. Since there are no chokes, starting on a cold day is always a bit of a chore. With time, you seem to learn how much to pump the accelerator to get it to run till it's warmed up.

Also, I think a switch that allows you to turn off the electric fuel pump is handy as you can drop the levels in the float chambers before turning the car off, thus helping avoid fuel perculation problems.

Rich Paar is a great help, and is smart enough to use email, fax, etc. to try to not have to spend all day on the phone! He did have PMO up for sale a while back, does anyone know if there is any news on that front?

[david63]

Sweet looking car! I'm sure the PMOs are like Webers in that they don't like a very high fuel pressure (~3.5psi seems to be good), and the needle valves can be overcome with excessive pressure. Since there are no chokes, starting on a cold day is always a bit of a chore. With time, you seem to learn how much to pump the accelerator to get it to run till it's warmed up.

Also, I think a switch that allows you to turn off the electric fuel pump is handy as you can drop the levels in the float chambers before turning the car off, thus helping avoid fuel perculation problems.

Rich Paar is a great help, and is smart enough to use email, fax, etc. to try to not have to spend all day on the phone! He did have PMO up for sale a while back, does anyone know if there is any news on that front?

What an amazing reply. I love it when I stumble on the right track by shear luck. I had dual Webers on a 2.7 that I put together years ago and I was using a Holley elec fuel pump (no return line) and I was using a fuel regulator and it ran well at less than 5 psi. With this car I noticed that at around 3 psi things were much better than at 4 or 5 psi. This backs up your statement.

Also amazing is the fuel pump idea. I do not know what I might have hurt, but when it flooded eariler this week (prior to my last adjustment on the regulator) I simply unplugged one wire from the pump and then I could start the car back up. I would let it run a while, then plug the wire back on and run around like a crazy person to get to the regulator or the linkage for the carbs to " blip" the throttle to keep it running. I had to repeat this process a few times (great anti-theft device as nobody could steal the car unless they knew my super top secret starting procedure) until the carbs/cylinders/plugs cleaned up.

The car runs better now and maybe getting the regulator set is all I needed to do. I may install a switch on the dash for turning off the pump just to make things easier if I have trouble. It would be nice. Thanks for the help.