motor questions Options

[realred914]

in building a big 2.o liter (probably will be a 2.1 liter when done) we find the engien case is worn out. What differences is any are there in useing a 1.7 or 1.8 case for the build? I understand some cases do not have the windage tray. any other differences?


also what are recommended brands of pistons. I am looking for a big bore more than likely (2.1 liter) to run with the stock D-jet

thanks

[SirAndy]

in building a big 2.o liter (probably will be a 2.1 liter when done) we find the engien case is worn out. What differences is any are there in useing a 1.7 or 1.8 case for the build? I understand some cases do not have the windage tray. any other differences?

also what are recommended brands of pistons. I am looking for a big bore more than likely (2.1 liter) to run with the stock D-jet

I believe Jake likes the 1.7L cases better anyways. But i'm no expert. Might want to drop him a PM ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

[Mark Henry]

1.7 and 1.8 cases are less stressed because of the smaller crank and lower power.

Late bus case is the worst choice due to the fact it's been pushing a heavy bus.

[realred914]

ok not much differeance then, just one lives a harder life than the other. the windage tray can be fitted in all cases then?

thanks

[VaccaRabite]

ok not much differeance then, just one lives a harder life than the other. the windage tray can be fitted in all cases then?

thanks

Yes... But you have to ask why you want the windage tray. Unless you modify it, it can keep oil from getting back into the sump quickly. I got rid of mine when I rebuilt my motor and put the tuna can on.

For what its worth, my 2056 was made from a bus 1.7. I had to grind the registers flat, and there are some other oddities (have to use a modern, short VDO oil temp sensor for the bus case) but it works just fine.

Zach

[realred914]

ok not much differeance then, just one lives a harder life than the other. the windage tray can be fitted in all cases then?

thanks

Yes... But you have to ask why you want the windage tray. Unless you modify it, it can keep oil from getting back into the sump quickly. I got rid of mine when I rebuilt my motor and put the tuna can on.

For what its worth, my 2056 was made from a bus 1.7. I had to grind the registers flat, and there are some other oddities (have to use a modern, short VDO oil temp sensor for the bus case) but it works just fine.

Zach

so modified windage tray is recommended? add holes in it i assume? how have you modified windage trays?

thanks

[VaccaRabite]

There are vents pressed in it as stock. I cut them out so there was a larger rectangular opening. but since I was using a tuna can sump, I ditched the windage tray all together.

Zach

[realred914]

There are vents pressed in it as stock. I cut them out so there was a larger rectangular opening. but since I was using a tuna can sump, I ditched the windage tray all together.

Zach

ok thanks great idea
I am torn up about putting a tuna can, have run one on and off in past, but I fine lots of scrap marks on the bolt head form hitting stuff, scare me in to take it off now, but i see danger also from high corningering Gs and lose of oil pressure on my gage!

the car is lowered so the sump will get hit it seems, but lowered also means more G forces. catch22! maybe the windage tray modificatian wil help it out

[Cevan]

When I built my motor, I kept the windage tray. I've had no issues with oil starvation so far. But I don't track my car either.

[VaccaRabite]

Whether to keep or ditch the tray leads to heated debate. The point that was made that made sense to me was this:

A high volume pump need high volume of oil getting back into the sump, and the tray, unmodified, *could* cause enough of a restriction to be a problem.

that said, they were factory parts for years and years w/o problem, and folks do still use them today. The last straw for mine was that the engine seal kit I got did not have the seals for the windage tray, and i was not about to put off building my motor for a few days while I waited for the seals to come in.

my car is not lowered, but I do go over speed bumps VERY slow and angled with the can. I have lots of fastish sweeping corners, and have never seen my oil pressure dive w/o the tray (with the tuna can).

Zach

[Bleyseng]

A windage tray is fine if you do the mods. Hopefully you haven't tossed the seals as they are NLA cept used.
Early W engines don't have the bossing for the tray but later E code do. These cases are stronger with better internal webbing and support for the cylinders and stay straighter. Yes, stay away from the bus cases unless its early 1.7L one.
Just stay with 2056 (2.1L) if you are going to use the Djet FI as it get much more involved going to the other systems. Isn't a 120HP enough? I think so for most streetable 914's...plus it still can get 25-30mpg at 75 all day long.

Look at the pic for the mods of the tray holes. easy to do.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i8.photobucket.com-24-1280863839.1.jpg)

[VaccaRabite]

AA reproduced the seals, I think, last year. No idea on cost, but if you need them....

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

oops, looks like I double posted somehow. I am red faced with shame, can you not see?
Zach

[realred914]

thanks all, excellent advice.

yes the tuna can sure does work for reducing oil starvation. i found with out it, I had to keep th eoil level at the top line religously else cornering would do me in, if the oil was much below the top fill line, even hard breaking would slosh the oil away from the pick up! But I still kept wacking the tuna can bolt head. I think I will try the windage tray modification.