Problem with Clutch installation |
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Problem with Clutch installation |
Bill Meyer |
Sep 30 2011, 11:03 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 11-October 07 From: Prairie Village, KS Member No.: 8,210 |
I posted a picture yesterday of my flywheel that had been machined (the bolts go beyond the face of the flywheel) and now I think that's going to be a problem. Upon installation as you can see the clutch arm doesn't have enough play to fully disengage the clutch, it hits the tranny housing. You can also see I had to fully thread the cable to get it even remotly tight, so I knew I had a problem here. Question is, what can I do? When I installed the pressure plate as I tightened the bolts the release fingers kept going in as the plate seated down, I'm guessing because the face the edge of the pressure plate mounts against has been turned down too much??? Bummed, now I got to pull it all out again, but do I need a new flywheel? Thanks for any suggestions! |
Ductech |
Sep 30 2011, 11:06 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 356 Joined: 16-July 10 From: AridZona Member No.: 11,949 Region Association: Southwest Region |
If I remember correctly there should be some shims for throw out arm to compensate for this kinda thing. although I am also sure there is a spec out there for flywheel thickness and most likely someone will chime in with more precise info.
Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
r_towle |
Sep 30 2011, 11:08 AM
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#3
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
it was machined wrong.
They cant just grind the clutch surface, they need to also grind the mounting face where the pressure plate mounts. Check the haynes manual...I think the picture is in there...or search here...Dave Dyer has that pic he can post...it shows the correct way to cut a flywheel. For the fork, you might be able to get away with adding a few washers behind the ball to change the geometry enough....but that really depends upon how much they took off the flywheel. I have seen (and done) bent clutch forks also to get around this issue. The best choice it get it re-ground to the right depth. Any reground flywheel will need shins under the ball that the fork attaches to that is the exact same amount as what was take out of the flywheel. Rich |
pt_700 |
Sep 30 2011, 11:10 AM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,094 Joined: 4-March 10 From: san jose, ca Member No.: 11,430 Region Association: Northern California |
for what it's worth, i have a very long (approx. 2-3") spacer between the nut/locknut and my throw out arm. aftermarket weltmeister cable as i recal.
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underthetire |
Sep 30 2011, 11:31 AM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
You can shim the pivot ball, trans has to come back out, but that would need a lot of shim. Think you need a new flywheel. Probably machined too much off the surface, Double check your clutch disk, bet it's going to rub on the flywheel mounting bolts, if not now, it will when it wears down.
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Dave_Darling |
Sep 30 2011, 12:06 PM
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#6
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
You have the metal 911 clevis on the clutch cable. For whatever reason, that seems to sit too far back on the cable, requiring a spacer of some kind between the clevis and the adjuster nut. I have seen washers used, I have seen oversize nuts (M9 or M10; M8 may damage or get hung up on the threads) or short bits of brass pipe used.
Remember to use two M7 nuts on the end of the cable; in my experience Nyloc nuts get loose relatively quickly. --DD |
r_towle |
Sep 30 2011, 12:07 PM
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#7
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
You have the metal 911 clevis on the clutch cable. For whatever reason, that seems to sit too far back on the cable, requiring a spacer of some kind between the clevis and the adjuster nut. I have seen washers used, I have seen oversize nuts (M9 or M10; M8 may damage or get hung up on the threads) or short bits of brass pipe used. Remember to use two M7 nuts on the end of the cable; in my experience Nyloc nuts get loose relatively quickly. --DD Dave, Post that pic (if you have it) of the flywheel dimensions. rich |
Bill Meyer |
Sep 30 2011, 01:09 PM
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#8
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 11-October 07 From: Prairie Village, KS Member No.: 8,210 |
Thanks guys!
Dave, Yes I'd really like to see the flywheel deminsions, specifically the measured relationship between the Pressure plate mounting surface and the friction surface the disk rides on. |
r_towle |
Sep 30 2011, 06:33 PM
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#9
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
its in the manual.
Rich |
r_towle |
Sep 30 2011, 06:36 PM
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#10
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
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Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 30 2011, 06:49 PM
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#11
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
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Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 30 2011, 06:58 PM
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#12
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
I thought I answered this when it first appeared. The flywheel's been cut too deep, whether or not they did it right (and, despite the earlier responses, there's no visible information that it's cut wrong). Even if they cut the mounting surface so the disc won't hit the heads of the bolts, the pressure plate mounting surface is too low. The release arm pivot ball can't possibly be shimmed far enough to correct the geometry. There are only enough threads for 2 flat washers, and it looks like you might need 4 or 5. You persist in using this setup and you're gonna be repairing the clutch cable tube through the body, sooner rather than later. New flywheel time .....................
The Cap'n |
Bill Meyer |
Oct 1 2011, 07:25 AM
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#13
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 11-October 07 From: Prairie Village, KS Member No.: 8,210 |
You did answer it Cap, But it was after I had already installed the tranny in the car, so I missed your post. Many have said to shim the pivot, but I agree it looks like I'll need too much.
I'll pull the flywheel and measure today just to see how far off it is, but it sure looks like I'll be needing a new one. Thanks for all the help, this site's great! Bill I thought I answered this when it first appeared. The flywheel's been cut too deep, whether or not they did it right (and, despite the earlier responses, there's no visible information that it's cut wrong). Even if they cut the mounting surface so the disc won't hit the heads of the bolts, the pressure plate mounting surface is too low. The release arm pivot ball can't possibly be shimmed far enough to correct the geometry. There are only enough threads for 2 flat washers, and it looks like you might need 4 or 5. You persist in using this setup and you're gonna be repairing the clutch cable tube through the body, sooner rather than later. New flywheel time ..................... The Cap'n |
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