Clean up engine area, Remove torsion bar mounting bolts |
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Clean up engine area, Remove torsion bar mounting bolts |
watsonrx13 |
Aug 10 2004, 06:36 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
I'm in the process of completely cleaning up the engine area:
Remove back pad Remove tabs for back pad Remove glue from firewall Repair hell hole I plan to purchase Craig's rear trunk shox kit and was wondering if I should go through the process of removing the torsion bar mounting bolts and bracket. It looks like the bolts would be fairly easy to cut off and cover with bondo, but the bracket looks like it could be difficult to get to. Anyone with an opinion, either way? Attached image(s) |
Brad Roberts |
Aug 10 2004, 06:40 PM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
I cut them off and smooth them over. Much cleaner look.
B |
watsonrx13 |
Aug 10 2004, 06:49 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
That's what I thought. Should I just leave the outside bracket or try to cut it off also?
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Brad Roberts |
Aug 10 2004, 06:53 PM
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#4
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
It knocks off pretty easy. What I do is grind the tops of the spot welds down a little and then pry up on the bracket... it will come up easy if the spot welds have been heated up.
B |
Garland |
Aug 10 2004, 11:35 PM
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#5
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Restoration Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 1,329 Joined: 8-January 04 From: ......Michigan...... Member No.: 1,535 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Have you seen these? I am thinking this is the way to go.
http://www.jwesteng.com/pivot.htm |
McMark |
Aug 11 2004, 12:08 AM
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#6
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Garland, check the link on the original post. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
He's trying to remove the torsion springs that hold the rear trunk open and replace them with a gas shock kit similar to what comes on newer cars. |
watsonrx13 |
Oct 11 2004, 05:57 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Here's a shot after I removed the rear trunk torsion bar bracket that held the bolts. Also, I've removed the other bolts that were attached through the body.
Attached image(s) |
type11969 |
Oct 11 2004, 06:01 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Collingswood, NJ Member No.: 1,410 Region Association: North East States |
For removing the torsion bars, I heard they carry a good deal of tension. What is the best way to remove them without injuring yourself? Cut them in the middle? Unbolt and stand back?
-Chris |
sj914 |
Oct 11 2004, 06:08 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 805 Joined: 20-August 03 From: San Jose, CA Member No.: 1,053 |
cutoff wheel. cut it in the center.
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914werke |
Oct 11 2004, 06:18 PM
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#10
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,123 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Ive been contemplating the same thing, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
So what about the Hinge-stay? Cant that go? the Shocks travel & placement will fix the open swing? (Does that make sense (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) ) |
watsonrx13 |
Oct 11 2004, 07:08 PM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
QUOTE(rdauenhauer @ Oct 11 2004, 08:18 PM) Ive been contemplating the same thing, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So what about the Hinge-stay? Cant that go? the Shocks travel & placement will fix the open swing? (Does that make sense (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) ) No, it doesn't make sense to me, do you have a pic of the part you're refering to? |
morph |
Oct 11 2004, 08:34 PM
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#12
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quality parts builder Group: Members Posts: 1,828 Joined: 25-November 03 From: oregon coast Member No.: 1,389 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
i cut them out and smoothed them over looks good,makes the bay look cleaner.
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boxstr |
Oct 11 2004, 10:13 PM
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#13
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
After removing and installing the CAMP 914 rear shox kits on over 20 914s. I have found the easy way is to just put a folded blanket or towel into the engine bay where the tension rods will snap back to when pried off of the Hinge-stay as Rich calls it.
Pry them off with a long large screwdriver or a long stiff rod of some type. WARNING put a broom handle or something to hold the rear deck lid in the up position. Because when the tension rods are pried off the rear deck lid becomes very heavy, so you need a sturdy holder of some kind. Rich you can then remove the Hinge-stays at this time. You are correct in that the mounting of the shox limits the travel of the rear deck lid. Replacing the tension rods with the CAMP 914 rear or front trunk shox kit is really very easy. The hardest part is getting the tension rods out of the engine bay. WARNING on thing to be careful of when removing the old tension rods is to keep them away from the battery posts, especially if the battery is in the stock location CCLINTRUNKSHOXAREUS |
McMark |
Oct 11 2004, 11:02 PM
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#14
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Hey, no fair reviving old threads! I started reading through and then saw a post from myself and got my brain all tied in a knot before I realized this thread started in august. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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