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> Which dizzy is the best option, The best bang for my buck
tscrihfield
post Jan 3 2012, 08:50 PM
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Here is the deal... I finished up my engine early last month and I am still piecing together my FI system to what I want. However, I want to get my engine broke in and ready to install. I don't want to spend a ton on a distributor (that will be getting yanked soon after) but I also want a good setup to run until the FI setup is ready to go. Give me some options gurus!

Can I run this with a Bosch blue i have sitting around?... http://www.amazon.com/Pertronix-D186604-Fl...r/dp/B004C02I1S

I'd rather not run vacuum if I don't have to... I just set up a test stand to fire this bad boy up... Oh and I'll be running a set of dual webbers with it ....
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 09:02 PM
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that will work just fine. but if its only temporary, just for breaking in, im sure you could find a used 009 or something on the samba. could you borrow one? i dont think i have a complete 009, but i could look....
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tscrihfield
post Jan 3 2012, 09:09 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 10:02 PM) *

that will work just fine. but if its only temporary, just for breaking in, im sure you could find a used 009 or something on the samba. could you borrow one? i dont think i have a complete 009, but i could look....


I actually was going to run an old 009 that I had laying around from my bug days... If I could only find the dang thing... It will be used to break in and probably run for a few weeks/months while I wait on shipments and time finish the fab on my manifolds I'm building. Parts will probably show up prior to me getting time at dads shop to finish machining the runners... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) what can I say wife has been tough on me finishing our living room.... What's the going rate for an 009 these days?
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 09:17 PM
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price all depends. the chinese ones are less than 100 bucks. i bet you could find a used german one on the samba for 50.00. what kind of distributor are you thinking about running for you FI? if your webers have vacumm ports you could run an svda distributor and the webers will work real well and get good gas mileage. wht buy twice tho. why not just run the dizzy you gonna use for your FI? or are you going with a crank fire config.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 09:20 PM
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heres one http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1242096
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 09:21 PM
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heres the 009's http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/sea...ceto=&model[]=&section[]=21&wanted=show&zip=&zipdist=0&state[]=&usaregion=&country=&sort=date&sort_order=DESC&submitButton=Search
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tscrihfield
post Jan 3 2012, 09:26 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 10:17 PM) *

price all depends. the chinese ones are less than 100 bucks. i bet you could find a used german one on the samba for 50.00. what kind of distributor are you thinking about running for you FI? if your webers have vacumm ports you could run an svda distributor and the webers will work real well and get good gas mileage. wht buy twice tho. why not just run the dizzy you gonna use for your FI? or are you going with a crank fire config.


I actually designed my own trigger wheel driven dizzy with the combo of a crank wheel as well. This way I can run sequential FI. I actually am carb retarded when it comes to VW engines I converted my old bug to FI as well with a setup from CB. The webers do have vac ports. So vac advance is the way to go if I go 009 route?

Thanks BTW!
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 09:33 PM
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no no, 009 is centrifugal advance only..... the svda is vacuum and centrifugal. which is better, smoother, and pulls like a mofo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

i just checked and i have 2 german 009's in the garage. they both have tight shafts. (no slop) thats what you need to look out for if buying used. but they are in my garage for a reason. because the svda is a better dizzy for a street car.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 09:37 PM
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if you go the svda route. run a hose from each vacuum port on your webers (im assuming there IDF's) into a T then one hose from the T to the vacuum can in the distributor. then time to 28 degrees full advanced. with the hose off.
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mrholland2
post Jan 3 2012, 10:06 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 07:37 PM) *

if you go the svda route. run a hose from each vacuum port on your webers (im assuming there IDF's) into a T then one hose from the T to the vacuum can in the distributor. then time to 28 degrees full advanced. with the hose off.


So, not to hijack, but is that distributor (the one in the original post) a good option for a carb car? The vacuum stuff is dysfunctional on my car and I'm going to have spend some bucks, and I'd like something solid and getting rid of the points doesn't bother me at all.

Thanks
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tscrihfield
post Jan 3 2012, 10:09 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 10:37 PM) *

if you go the svda route. run a hose from each vacuum port on your webers (im assuming there IDF's) into a T then one hose from the T to the vacuum can in the distributor. then time to 28 degrees full advanced. with the hose off.



Gotcha! I will go with the vac adv carb then. Thanks a ton for the knowledge! Much appreciated!

Thomas
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tscrihfield
post Jan 3 2012, 10:14 PM
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QUOTE(tscrihfield @ Jan 3 2012, 11:09 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 10:37 PM) *

if you go the svda route. run a hose from each vacuum port on your webers (im assuming there IDF's) into a T then one hose from the T to the vacuum can in the distributor. then time to 28 degrees full advanced. with the hose off.



Gotcha! I will go with the vac adv carb then. Thanks a ton for the knowledge! Much appreciated!

Thomas


Oh wait before I go too far. Memory just kicked me from my time in engine classes... I am running a more aggressive cam, not too far out there just a mild cam... but i remember that with greater duration and overlap you lose vacuum... This is a mild 2056 I built so with the ignorance of the unknown should I stick to mech advance? Sorry to throw that wrench late in the conversation....
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 10:19 PM
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QUOTE(mrholland2 @ Jan 3 2012, 08:06 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 07:37 PM) *

if you go the svda route. run a hose from each vacuum port on your webers (im assuming there IDF's) into a T then one hose from the T to the vacuum can in the distributor. then time to 28 degrees full advanced. with the hose off.


So, not to hijack, but is that distributor (the one in the original post) a good option for a carb car? The vacuum stuff is dysfunctional on my car and I'm going to have spend some bucks, and I'd like something solid and getting rid of the points doesn't bother me at all.

Thanks


yes it will work. it all depends on the advance curve. to me it sounds like its an 009 knock off. but who knows.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 10:29 PM
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QUOTE(tscrihfield @ Jan 3 2012, 08:14 PM) *

QUOTE(tscrihfield @ Jan 3 2012, 11:09 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 10:37 PM) *

if you go the svda route. run a hose from each vacuum port on your webers (im assuming there IDF's) into a T then one hose from the T to the vacuum can in the distributor. then time to 28 degrees full advanced. with the hose off.



Gotcha! I will go with the vac adv carb then. Thanks a ton for the knowledge! Much appreciated!

Thomas


Oh wait before I go too far. Memory just kicked me from my time in engine classes... I am running a more aggressive cam, not too far out there just a mild cam... but i remember that with greater duration and overlap you lose vacuum... This is a mild 2056 I built so with the ignorance of the unknown should I stick to mech advance? Sorry to throw that wrench late in the conversation....

that could be the deal breaker......if the cam wont provide enuff vacuum signal then it wont pull the advance in.... sooooo, to play it safe, and not have to buy a bunch if distributors, you may be better off going with a mechanical advance dizzy. its only temporary anyways right? an 009 will work, just not optimally. if it was me, i would find a good "cheap" german 009.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 3 2012, 10:37 PM
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QUOTE(mrholland2 @ Jan 3 2012, 08:06 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 3 2012, 07:37 PM) *

if you go the svda route. run a hose from each vacuum port on your webers (im assuming there IDF's) into a T then one hose from the T to the vacuum can in the distributor. then time to 28 degrees full advanced. with the hose off.


So, not to hijack, but is that distributor (the one in the original post) a good option for a carb car? The vacuum stuff is dysfunctional on my car and I'm going to have spend some bucks, and I'd like something solid and getting rid of the points doesn't bother me at all.

Thanks


if i were in your shoes, and was willing to spend the money, and did not want or could not go with a svda unit. i would look into something of better quality. likwe a mallory unilite. tscrihfield is in a different situation. he is looking for a semi-temporary solution. your sounds like it might be looking for a more permanent solution. i would spend the extra dough and get something of better quality.
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mrholland2
post Jan 4 2012, 11:13 PM
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[/quote]

if i were in your shoes, and was willing to spend the money, and did not want or could not go with a svda unit. i would look into something of better quality. likwe a mallory unilite. tscrihfield is in a different situation. he is looking for a semi-temporary solution. your sounds like it might be looking for a more permanent solution. i would spend the extra dough and get something of better quality.
[/quote]


All right, but I'm still confused as to advantages of vacuum advance or centrifugal advance for a carbed car.

Nothing hotrodded, just a daily driver situation in a 4 season climate.
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