Need to clean my tanny?, What is after Engine Brite? Options

[jr91472]

Got my new (used) side shift tranny. Not interested in painting, but would like it to at least look a little more presentable. I have already done the Engine Brite route, and got the majority of the junk off.

What else has worked for you guys?

thx

[SteveSr]

Just tried something lastnite, scotchbrite pad to get the gunk off then, Mother's brand Mag and Aluminum Polish. Worked pretty well.When I get a bigger area done I'll post a pic to show the results.

SteveSr

[SLITS]

The local hi-pressure wash thingy!

[machina]

I'll probably get flamed for this but I used a wire wheel on a die grinder. The magnesium was badly oxidized from the salt air here. I just did the back end since that's all I'll see unless I am under it.

Would've spent more time but I gotta get this thing running now.

dr

[RON S.]

Try some brake parts cleaner.The stuff that comes in the tall spray can at the auto parts store.
Stuff dries pretty fast,but I used a toohthbrush,and a clean rag and it polished up the entire bottom of my engine case from all the road crap.


Ron

[eeyore]

I have used concentrated Simple Green in hot, hot water with moderate success. Then I discovered turpentine. It works better than , engine brite, acetone, paint thinner and alchohol. It really cuts through that nasty 10 year old road grime, and leave the part clean. It doesn't smear. Brake parts cleaner is too $$$ and volatile.

BTW. Is there an official term for the oil/sand goo that accumulates in the webbing of transmissions? My car was such a leaker that some of those holes were 1/2 full of goo.

[SLITS]

I have used concentrated Simple Green in hot, hot water with moderate success. Then I discovered turpentine. It works better than , engine brite, acetone, paint thinner and alchohol. It really cuts through that nasty 10 year old road grime, and leave the part clean. It doesn't smear. Brake parts cleaner is too $$$ and volatile.

BTW. Is there an official term for the oil/sand goo that accumulates in the webbing of transmissions? My car was such a leaker that some of those holes were 1/2 full of goo.

Yeh, it's called "roadglue" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif)

[anthony]

I really like the Castrol Super Clean stuff. It's pretty caustic though and will eat through everything. I use it diluted and don't leave it on a long time.

I haven't tried it yet on car parts but I got a 1600psi pressure washer at Costco. It does freaking wonders on cement so I think it would do pretty good on a tranny or some heat exchangers.

[Aaron Cox]

[quote=SLITS,Aug 30 2004, 08:35 AM] BTW. Is there an official term for the oil/sand goo that accumulates in the webbing of transmissions? My car was such a leaker that some of those holes were 1/2 full of goo. [/QUOTE]
Yeh, it's called "roadglue" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif) [/quote]
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[dmenche914]

Use a screw driver or putty knive to scrape off the "road glue", then finish off with engine brite or simular. Be careful with real powerful caustic cleaners, as some can attack the magnesium case! Paint thinner is very good to use with the scraping, and paint thinner like most other solvents will not harm the magnesium case.

Keep in mind that magnesium oxidizes easy, very easy. so paint is highly recommended especially if you live in a salty area (ocean or winter road salt) Bare magnesium does not do too well. I have seem one case that was pitted with worm holes of rust that had weakened it to the point of cracks forming. It came out of a running car.

Also be aware to seal the top vent fitting (just behind the bell house) before squirting it clean, as water / cleaner can easily get inside thru this fitting.

Also suggest as a matter of course to replace the main shaft seal (it is very cheap) now while the tranny is out, you probably want this to last ten years, and if the existing seal is already old, might as well do it. (plus if it leaks later in the car, often the clutch is destroyed by the oil leak) If you want to spend a little extra go ahead and replace the seals on the stub axles now (althought they can be done with tranny in car after CV removed, it is much easier to do now), and do not forget the shift linkage seal either. Your tranny got road glue on it because of oil leaks, so fix any current or potential future seal failures now while it is is to do.

On the same note, now that that the tranny is out, you might want to consider the engine main shaft seal behind the flywheel, easy to replace now that tranny is out rather than later when it fails and makes a mess


good luck dave

[SirAndy]

if you don't want to spend all weekend rubbing the damm thing, get a couple of cans of good brake cleaner, like berryman's (sp?) ...

just spray it down with Lots-O-BC, easy, fast and very effective ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Andy

[jr91472]

thanks all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Joe Ricard]

If people can see your "tranny" either your car needs to be lower. or the closet door is open (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif)

Damn can't believe I said that outloud. But I can't even see the transaxle unless my ear is touching the ground peeking up under the Bursch pipe.

However I got a real clean one on the patio (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[machina]

If people can see your "tranny" either your car needs to be lower. or the closet door is open

Where is your head at Joe? Been watching queer eye?

I don't run no valence. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

dr

[mack914]

Spray brake cleaner- $.88 a can at Wal-Mart.

[Red-Beard]

no no no no no

Ez-off Oven cleaner.

Tape vent hole closed. Hit tranny with a pressure washer to get the loose stuff off. Soak with oven cleaner. Let stand 20 minutes in sun. Scrub with a wire brush if you like. use pressure washer. Repeat on stubborn areas. It comes out great.

James