Distributor question Options

[jcambo7]

I have a 1970 911 6 Cyl 2.2T in my teener. My question is about the distributor and how it works. I understand the whole rotor and cap system and how that works. More curious about the internals(gears?) and the weights. I have been told a little bit but would like some clarification. Something I have heard is that if the weights in the distributor are not working properly then the timing will be off?

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Bob L.]

I have a 1970 911 6 Cyl 2.2T in my teener. My question is about the distributor and how it works. I understand the whole rotor and cap system and how that works. More curious about the internals(gears?) and the weights. I have been told a little bit but would like some clarification. Something I have heard is that if the weights in the distributor are not working properly then the timing will be off?

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I'm no expert, but basically there are weights attached to the rotating assembly inside the dizzy. As it spins faster the weights are flung further out and that advances the timing. If it's stuck and not swinging properly, you will not advance the timing and performance will suffer.
Some use vacuum advance so make sure you know which one you have.

I'm sure someone can explain it better, but that's a start.

[underthetire]

Pretty sure all dizzys use the weights, at least till the more modern ones. Some have vac with the weights. easy way to check is grab the rotor and turn it. It should move one direction 15 or so degrees and when you let go should snap back. Slow returning is just as bad as no advance.

[jcambo7]

My distributor doesn't have a vacuum advance. Ok so if I set my timing at idle(900 RPM) to where it is supposed to be and than go to set it at 5000 RPM shouldn't the mark on the flywheel change to a different degree? I have set the timing at idle and than put the RPM's at 5000 RPM and went to look at where the mark is at on the flywheel and it doesn't change. Does that mean the weights in the distributor are bad?

[Bob L.]

My distributor doesn't have a vacuum advance. Ok so if I set my timing at idle(900 RPM) to where it is supposed to be and than go to set it at 5000 RPM shouldn't the mark on the flywheel change to a different degree? I have set the timing at idle and than put the RPM's at 5000 RPM and went to look at where the mark is at on the flywheel and it doesn't change. Does that mean the weights in the distributor are bad?

Probably means they aren't swinging out. Could be dirt/crud/rust.
Check that the weights move freely and that the spring brings it back. If not try cleaning and lubing the parts for smooth motion.
Or... your springs could be too tight. Not likely though.
Good luck.

[jcambo7]

My distributor doesn't have a vacuum advance. Ok so if I set my timing at idle(900 RPM) to where it is supposed to be and than go to set it at 5000 RPM shouldn't the mark on the flywheel change to a different degree? I have set the timing at idle and than put the RPM's at 5000 RPM and went to look at where the mark is at on the flywheel and it doesn't change. Does that mean the weights in the distributor are bad?

Probably means they aren't swinging out. Could be dirt/crud/rust.
Check that the weights move freely and that the spring brings it back. If not try cleaning and lubing the parts for smooth motion.
Or... your springs could be too tight. Not likely though.
Good luck.

So I just checked the spring back on the rotor and it wasn't very strong. It moved maybe 2/16 of an inch and barely sprung back. How much force should it spring back and how far should it move? Ok so how would I lube the parts? Would I have to take the whole distirbutor out?

[jcambo7]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) Still looking for some answers please?

[Bob L.]

My knowledge on dizzys is theoretical. I would have hoped someone with practical experience would have chimed in by now. As I said in my first response, "I'm no expert".

That said, I would think some carb cleaner would be a start. I don't think the unit has to be removed. you should be able to service the weights, points and rotor while it's in the engine. You said the weights only go out 2/16th's, they may be stuck in the expanded position. See if you can push them more to the returned position.

I hope this helps, or someone with experience jumps in.

[Mark Henry]

Take the dizzy right out, cap off.
Now push the shaft all the way up and down, It should only have .015" play.
Take pics if you think you'll have issues keeping stuff in order.
The plate that holds the points comes off with 3 screws (IIRC), take the points plate out being careful not to damage the plastic plate cover. The the advance weights are right under it. Look for broke springs, dirt etc. Once you clean it up, lube it and put it back together you should be good to go.

But if has too much play or you can't get the weights sorted you need to send it to a specialist. Last time I asked the going rate was $5-600 to rebuild a dizzy, often you can get good used for a lot less coin.

[euro911]

... Last time I asked the going rate was $5-600 to rebuild a dizzy, often you can get good used for a lot less coin.

Wow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ... I guess I saved a lot of $ refreshing one myself.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) take a lot of pix, or video the dis-assembly process.

[Prospectfarms]

Don't know a thing about 6 cyl. porsche engines, however, there's a world of info about Bosch distributors on the "net." Try 914world, rennelist, and SAMBA.

There's some fantasy posted about renovation. For example, you will had folks suggest "rebuilding" NLA OEM Bosch distributors is simple. Not really. A while back I "rebuilt" a ".050" and, IIRC, a .028." Couldn't find the hardware I needed/wanted. Ended up merely disassembling and cleaning. Had to pull one twice to fix what I'd botched. After, they both worked better and much easier to set timing all the same.

Distributor's are easy to remove, usually. I find it harder to do that with type 4 than others. Again, don't know about 2.2. 6 cyl.

Good luck

[jcambo7]

Take the dizzy right out, cap off.
Now push the shaft all the way up and down, It should only have .015" play.
Take pics if you think you'll have issues keeping stuff in order.
The plate that holds the points comes off with 3 screws (IIRC), take the points plate out being careful not to damage the plastic plate cover. The the advance weights are right under it. Look for broke springs, dirt etc. Once you clean it up, lube it and put it back together you should be good to go.

But if has too much play or you can't get the weights sorted you need to send it to a specialist. Last time I asked the going rate was $5-600 to rebuild a dizzy, often you can get good used for a lot less coin.

Thanks Mark! I guess my next project is cleaning the dizzy. Hopefully I don't need to send it to a specialist. It would be easier for me to find another one.

[jcambo7]

Don't know a thing about 6 cyl. porsche engines, however, there's a world of info about Bosch distributors on the "net." Try 914world, rennelist, and SAMBA.

There's some fantasy posted about renovation. For example, you will had folks suggest "rebuilding" NLA OEM Bosch distributors is simple. Not really. A while back I "rebuilt" a ".050" and, IIRC, a .028." Couldn't find the hardware I needed/wanted. Ended up merely disassembling and cleaning. Had to pull one twice to fix what I'd botched. After, they both worked better and much easier to set timing all the same.

Distributor's are easy to remove, usually. I find it harder to do that with type 4 than others. Again, don't know about 2.2. 6 cyl.

Good luck

The dizzy on my 2.2 is real easy to get to and pull. I have already had to pull it out once a long time ago and their is plenty of room to get to it.

[underthetire]

Like the old saying goes, when in doubt, pull it out!

At least you will know its clean and working.

[Mark Henry]

That rebuild price I quoted was a guy recommended on pelican and included recurving for carbs.

If you need it rebuilt I bet this guy would have the better quality and price.
http://www.glenn-ring.com/bosch/

[jcambo7]

Pics of my Dizzy

[jcambo7]

More

[jcambo7]

So I used some carb cleaner and than sprayed some PB blaster in it and the amount of movement I got when I turned the rotor was about the same. It seemed to spring back a little faster though.

[underthetire]

Spray it down the center. Maybe take a pick and remove the felt so it can soak in faster. That felt is where you put light oil. Like sewing machine oil. It's not the actual weights that usually stick, it's the two shafts, the top one kinda moves on the lower one that engages the drive.

[jcambo7]

Spray it down the center. Maybe take a pick and remove the felt so it can soak in faster. That felt is where you put light oil. Like sewing machine oil. It's not the actual weights that usually stick, it's the two shafts, the top one kinda moves on the lower one that engages the drive.

Where is this felt at? I was trying to take the two shafts apart with no luck.