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> how much to torque heat exchanger to the motor?, need others specs too...
opera guy
post Sep 24 2004, 08:16 PM
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got no manual so i cant RTFM (read the fXXking manual)...

how much to torque the heat exchanger to the motor?

how much to torque the heat exchanger to the muffler?

gf prayed, so i didnt strip any heat xchanger studs, whew. thought i "one oomph'd" it, but it's still leaking. so i need the proper specs.

also, how much to torque the nut on the valve? (as per valve adjustment)

thanks

car's coming back together
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MXMARK
post Sep 24 2004, 10:52 PM
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Opera guy, I have a manual if you want to borrow it. Most 8 mn nuts are torqued to 14.5 lb ft in my manual but I know to watch out on the exhaust studs. The other 8 mm bolts could be up to 18 but maybe 14.5 would be better. I never read the torque on the nuts for the vavles. I just tighten to what I think will hold them. Maybe 12-14 ft lbs. I hope this helps. Again I have been wrong before. Mark
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opera guy
post Sep 25 2004, 12:10 AM
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actually, the heat exchanger nuts are 13 and 14mm. they all have same inner threading or whatever, but the outside of the nuts.. some are 13mm and some are 14mm.

dude, mark, i know corona boy's (aaron) been on my case about going for a run one of these days.. this is what im waiting on. as soon as this stuff is taken care of, i should be able to do get out and do one with y'all.
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bob91403
post Sep 25 2004, 01:31 AM
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Everything I've come across says 12 to 17lbs., no more than it takes to make them stop leaking. Did you put new sealing rings in? Do you have SS heat exchangers? When I asked my renouned 914 mechanic about SS heat exchangers, he told me, forget it. He said he never saw a set made well enough not to leak.
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michelko
post Sep 25 2004, 02:21 AM
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check this out :

http://www.tunacan.net/t4/reference/torque.htm

very informative site!!

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scotty914
post Sep 25 2004, 04:06 AM
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two tricks to help heat exchangers to seal :

one take the sealing rings, hang them on a peice of wire and heat em with your propane torch till they are red hot then drop them in to a bucket of water. this will soften them so they deform to the head and heaters with less chance of striping the heads. they will work harden with the temp increase and decrease of the head.

two take a long file that will span both inlets of the exchangers at the same time. then just file both surfaces at the same time till they are even and flat with each other. this gives you a good start so you dont have to try to crank them even.


scott thacher
75 someday suby power conversion will be completed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Sep 25 2004, 09:19 AM
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it sounds like you are using the old nuts. a BIG no no. get new ones. did you get new copper rings? are they the correct ones? there are ones for 2.0 and ones for 1.7/1.8. the 14mm can be somewhat tight to get a 3/8" drive socket up there. i use a 1/4" drive socket, thinner walls. before you torque, push the he up and just barely start the nuts. now push the he up tight and and start to tighten the nuts in a cross pattern. take them up in 3 tightening cycles. most times if you run one up tight, you won't be able to get a tight seal from the pipes to the heads. make sure the seating surface in the head is clean.

kevin
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bob91403
post Sep 25 2004, 03:17 PM
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QUOTE(michelko @ Sep 25 2004, 12:21 AM)

Thanks, only place I've seen with an actual list. Of course you don't know where he got the info.
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Ray Warren
post Sep 25 2004, 03:21 PM
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QUOTE(bob91403 @ Sep 25 2004, 04:17 PM)
QUOTE(michelko @ Sep 25 2004, 12:21 AM)

Thanks, only place I've seen with an actual list. Of course you don't know where he got the info.

I think you can trust this information without any hesitation.
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bob91403
post Sep 25 2004, 03:51 PM
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QUOTE(914ray @ Sep 25 2004, 01:21 PM)
QUOTE(bob91403 @ Sep 25 2004, 04:17 PM)
QUOTE(michelko @ Sep 25 2004, 12:21 AM)

Thanks, only place I've seen with an actual list. Of course you don't know where he got the info.

I think you can trust this information without any hesitation.

No doubt. Looking at his site further leads me to believe he's done extensive research on the subject. This guy knows his stuff.
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bob91403
post Sep 25 2004, 04:31 PM
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Before you put them back on go to www.casperlabs.com/casperlabsinc/id1.html They offer an exhaust stud kit that is well worth a look. Their page takes forever to load. Be patient, it's worth it.
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Uraquan
post Jan 30 2026, 12:23 PM
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QUOTE(bob91403 @ Sep 25 2004, 05:31 PM) *

Before you put them back on go to www.casperlabs.com/casperlabsinc/id1.html They offer an exhaust stud kit that is well worth a look. Their page takes forever to load. Be patient, it's worth it.


Looks like http://www.tunacan.net/t4/reference/torque.htm has expired. I've attached a screen shot from the wayback machine for anybody else that finds this thread


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JeffBowlsby
post Jan 30 2026, 01:28 PM
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My engine builder says 14 ft-lbs heat exch to head is sufficient. Used this for years with no issues. Def not a nut to overtighten.
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