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> Engine Warm Up, Idle Question
Rhodes71/914
post Oct 29 2004, 08:05 PM
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So now that I have my 1.7L with D-jet running I need to do some fine tuning. It's getting pretty cool here now and the last couple of times I have started the engine it has been around 45 deg F and I have to constantly maintain the throttle to keep the engine running. it does start right up though. Shouldn't something keep the rpms up with a rich mixture. I did a some looking on B. Anders D-jet site but didn't really find an answer. AAR? cold start inj? intake air temp sensor?
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SirAndy
post Oct 29 2004, 08:21 PM
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the AAR should give you a controlled vacuum leak during cold start resulting in higher rpms. maybe your AAR is stuck close ...

you can easily test it by disconnecting the 2 hoses going to it (when cold)
if that results in higher idle, the AAR is stuck shut ...

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Marlow
post Oct 29 2004, 08:22 PM
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The AAR is primarily responsible for cold start enrichment. The cold start valve doesn't kick in until the temp is below freezing -- then it only squirts while cranking. The AARs have a tendency to freeze up (rust) over the years. Most of them can be fixed by spraying some rust penetrating oil into them.
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Marlow
post Oct 29 2004, 08:23 PM
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Andy beat me to it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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Rhodes71/914
post Oct 29 2004, 08:43 PM
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Thanks guys that was my first guess, just so nice to ask the question here and before wasting time.
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Spoke
post Oct 30 2004, 12:17 AM
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My carburetted 1.7L was also stalling at idle - warm or cold - turned out to be vacuum leaks at the manifold-head interface. Spraying Gumout on the gaskets identified the problem.

Spoke
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Rhodes71/914
post Oct 30 2004, 02:01 PM
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Spoke, engine actually idles great after warm-up, and have sprayed for vacume leaks.

I pulled the AAR and air passes through fine when cold.
Any other ideas?
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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 30 2004, 02:03 PM
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Tight valves will seriously affect the warmup idle.
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Rhodes71/914
post Oct 30 2004, 02:09 PM
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Valve have been adjusted, but not since I have had the engine running for more than a few minutes. I'll recheck them tonight.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 30 2004, 02:14 PM
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A few minutes running should affect the valve clearence, except with a brand new motor with all new parts.
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Rhodes71/914
post Nov 3 2004, 12:28 PM
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Still having issues with the start-up idle. Checked the AAR and it is open when cold so it is working. What seems to be happening is one cylinder is not firing when cold. After runnig for 5 min it will kick in after rev up. What would cause a cylinder to not fire when cold but be fine after the engine has warned some?
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redshift
post Nov 3 2004, 12:56 PM
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1. Weakish spark (many causes)

2. Slightly lean (long list)

3. Uhh... hmmm valve on that cyl. out of tolerance when cold..

4. Bad Juju.

5. Negative vibes.

-shrug-

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Oh, I also forgot to mention, the AAR valve, it's open when cold... but your car idles low?

I'll bet it never closes warm then... that means you are tuned with an unmetered air leak.


M
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Root_Werks
post Nov 3 2004, 01:20 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Check that AAR again. If it is open when cold, it should be closed when open. Sounds like it might be stuck open and your 914 is tuned for running warm on an open AAR? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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Rhodes71/914
post Nov 3 2004, 01:21 PM
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Thanks Miles, i'll pull the hose on the AAR after it is warm and see if it closed, if not could be part of the problem.

Then again maybe I should just put my energy into the 2.0 that is half dis-assembled. Yesterday was the first time I was able to take the car out and stretch it's legs. Now I know I want a little more HP.
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Root_Werks
post Nov 3 2004, 01:24 PM
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QUOTE(Rhodes71/914 @ Nov 3 2004, 11:21 AM)
Thanks Miles, i'll pull the hose on the AAR after it is warm and see if it closed, if not could be part of the problem.

Then again maybe I should just put my energy into the 2.0 that is half dis-assembled. Yesterday was the first time I was able to take the car out and stretch it's legs. Now I know I want a little more HP.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Yeah, there's your problem right there! You need to replace the AAR with a 2.0. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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Rhodes71/914
post Nov 3 2004, 08:06 PM
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Checked the AAR after engine was warm and it was closed. Here is something stange - when engine is starting to warm up but not quite there i drive out of the parking lot and there is lots of sputtering and missing. Pulled up on the heater lever to get some warm air flowing into the car (39 deg outside) and the sputtering stops, engine evens out. WTF, push lever back down and sputtering again. Pull lever up, it runs good.

What gives?
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redshift
post Nov 3 2004, 08:09 PM
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GROUND! You have a ground problem!

Do I know where? No, but I'd imagine if you tinker around under there, and get a little more input from others here on the heater rig...

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Rhodes71/914
post Nov 3 2004, 08:16 PM
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I have cleaned all the grounds on the engine block, the ground strap on the trans, should prolly replace the on the battery
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redshift
post Nov 3 2004, 08:23 PM
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Ok.... there is something going on... with..

The heater handle has that notch in the end of travel, that grounds, to turn on the blower motor.

Somehow, sounds like that is getting it grounded better... so..

Test: Take a set of jumper cables, and clamp them on the block somewhere clean, and then to anyplace on the chassis that you can get metal.

Hurry back! I only have forever!

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M
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Rhodes71/914
post Nov 3 2004, 08:35 PM
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OK Miles I would prolly jump right up, run to the garage, do what you advised but my wife would KILL me as I am at home alone with my two small kids, and she could be home any minute with pizza.

And she thinks I spend way to much time out there as it is.

Oh and to make it more strange this only happens with the heater lever when the engine is not completely warmed up. Although maybe its just not as noticeable when up to temp. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)





BTW glad the election is over so I can get a few laughs reading some of your posts.
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