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pbob42 |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 46 Joined: 6-June 12 From: san diego Member No.: 14,531 Region Association: None ![]() |
Replacing the firewall and shiftrod bushings. PO stripped out the set screws 20 years ago and left the project undone. I am drilling out the set screws but the linkage is locked together at both set screw locations (rear and firewall).
Any suggestions on getting this linkage apart? |
timothy_nd28 |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and post a WTB ad in the classified section
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wildman |
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#3
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 34 Joined: 24-May 11 From: Oklahoma City, OK Member No.: 13,112 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
you might try shifting into a forward gear (like 2nd) and wedging something between the shift coupler and the firewall then pull the shift lever back to a rear position (like 3rd) to get the shift coupler off. i think thats how i did mine...as for the back, wedge something so you wont put pressure on the shift forks and use a long punch and a hammer with a little tapping and maybe some heat and penetrating oil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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pbob42 |
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#4
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 46 Joined: 6-June 12 From: san diego Member No.: 14,531 Region Association: None ![]() |
you might try shifting into a forward gear (like 2nd) and wedging something between the shift coupler and the firewall then pull the shift lever back to a rear position (like 3rd) to get the shift coupler off. i think thats how i did mine...as for the back, wedge something so you wont put pressure on the shift forks and use a long punch and a hammer with a little tapping and maybe some heat and penetrating oil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) I was trying to get a pully puller on the back one but couldn't get a bite. Heat is always the answer. Thanks for the wedge idea. |
brant |
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#5
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,949 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
a bigger drill bit
I've had to do it one I took the aluminum knuckle after I got it off to a alloy only welding shop refilled it, redrilled it and its back to good but a bigger hole to get it off |
rhodyguy |
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#6
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 22,240 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() |
try going thru the access cover (center tunnel, under carpet, at base of back pad). put trans 2nd, vice grip the front rod close to the rear of the access hole, go back under car and see if you can drive the rear rod (rear rod detached at the rear coupler) off of the front one. try to squirt some penetrating fluid in/around where the front goes into the rear rod first. hopefully the po didn't 'fix' things with jb weld.
k |
flash914 |
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#7
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 124 Joined: 1-January 11 From: littlerock CA Member No.: 12,554 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
Left hand drill bits PB blaster and heat.
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rhodyguy |
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#8
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 22,240 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() |
the set screws have a nub on the end that go into the dimples on the rods.
k |
euro911 |
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#9
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,885 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
I would try penetrating oil and an easy-out first. This is what the cone screws look like (the pointy end fits into a corresponding tapered hole in the shift rods).
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pbob42 |
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#10
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 46 Joined: 6-June 12 From: san diego Member No.: 14,531 Region Association: None ![]() |
Got off track - had to put a starter in my daughter's BMW - what a chore.
The rear coupler, are you talking about unbolting the shift mechanism from the tranny? Looks like that might give me some more room to work and protect me from harming the tranny. But then that might create new issues. Been trying to ez-out the set screws. No budge. Have to think the nylon stay wore out and some well meaning mechanic used some serious lock tite to keep these babies from coming out. |
worn |
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#11
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Winner of the Utah Twisted Joint Award ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,470 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
Got off track - had to put a starter in my daughter's BMW - what a chore. The rear coupler, are you talking about unbolting the shift mechanism from the tranny? Looks like that might give me some more room to work and protect me from harming the tranny. But then that might create new issues. Been trying to ez-out the set screws. No budge. Have to think the nylon stay wore out and some well meaning mechanic used some serious lock tite to keep these babies from coming out. I am not sure I understand, but if the set screws have been drilled all the way out and it is locked up, then I would heat with a torch. I know you have fuel around so you have to be careful. You could pull off the console at the transmission and haul the whole thing out. Might be easier, and is only two 13 mm nuts. It will feel stuck, but should come off so you can play with it more comfortably. Otherwise keep drilling. Good luck. |
pbob42 |
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#12
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 46 Joined: 6-June 12 From: san diego Member No.: 14,531 Region Association: None ![]() |
I've been working at the back. I will see if I can free up the middle and slide the whole thing out. Thanks
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rhodyguy |
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#13
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 22,240 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() |
if you think the set screw situation is hopeless, post a WTB for the rods. they shouldn't that expensive. cut the rear bar forward of where it enters the console and behind the behind the front coupler. remove the shifter from the the front rod and pull the rod out. i personally can only spend so much time fighting an issue that can be fixed with a little dough.
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pbob42 |
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#14
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 46 Joined: 6-June 12 From: san diego Member No.: 14,531 Region Association: None ![]() |
first fire then hacksaw. Got it.
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euro911 |
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#15
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,885 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
If the PO used RED lock-tite, it's gonna be tough to get out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ... but I'd keep trying to inject some PB or Liquid Wrench. However, with the cone screws being on the bottom of the fittings, it's hard to get it in there to do it's job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Before cutting anything, try squirting some in from all angles (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
rhodyguy |
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#16
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 22,240 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() |
what's a hacksaw? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) power tools.
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