73 Fuel Pump Dead - want to replace pump and lines - what all do I need? Options

[jbachert]

1973 with original fuel injection and fuel pump in factory location.

Fuel pump is dead.

I would like to do the following:

1) Replace factory fuel lines with stainless from Tangerine Racing - I have the original plastic lines in the tunnel and the original plastic lines in the engine compartment

2) Relocation the fuel pump to the front while I am at it - need a new fuel pump

It seems the original "3 fuel line connection" pumps are no longer available

So:

1) Which lines to I need to purchase from Tangerine to do this?
2) What fuel pump should I buy to install in the front of the car?

Thanks,
John

[jbachert]

I am also considering if I can just replace the pump in the rear to keep it running for the rest of the summer and then take my time during the winter to replace the lines and move the pump.

Captain Krusty posted this on another forum several years ago in response to another person:

"Have you considered changing over (you'll notice I didn't use the evil word "upgrade") to a later model single inlet-single outlet pump? It fits the original bracket ans requires a different fuel filter, a short piece of 12mm hose, and a piece of 7/7.5 mm hose to put in place of the "Y" in the return line. Simple, effective, and relatively inexpensive. I cal talk you through it, if you'd like. Bosch #69 469."

I am going to PM him to take a look at this thread and offer any insight.

John

[TravisNeff]

there is a 2 port pump that you can use, pick it up at an orielly, don't have the specs here, but Clay Perrine has a post on it. I have one, works great and is under 80 bucks

[Cap'n Krusty]

I am also considering if I can just replace the pump in the rear to keep it running for the rest of the summer and then take my time during the winter to replace the lines and move the pump.

Captain Krusty posted this on another forum several years ago in response to another person:

"Have you considered changing over (you'll notice I didn't use the evil word "upgrade") to a later model single inlet-single outlet pump? It fits the original bracket ans requires a different fuel filter, a short piece of 12mm hose, and a piece of 7/7.5 mm hose to put in place of the "Y" in the return line. Simple, effective, and relatively inexpensive. I cal talk you through it, if you'd like. Bosch #69 469."

I am going to PM him to take a look at this thread and offer any insight.

John

OK. Mount the pump in the original location. You're gonna need some 12mm hose, one of the adapter hoses from Porsche, and a short piece of 7 or 7.5mm hp fuel hose. The fit is tight in there because the inlet and outlet fittings are on opposite ends and there's not a lot of room under there. By enough 12mm hose to make a loop if you have to. If the new pump has posts for the wires, cut the positive and negative wires an inch or so from the plug housing and crimp on some good quality eyelet connectors. I use non-insulated versions and heat shrink where needed. If it has spade lugs, pry the securing tabs back in the plug and pull the female connectors out. Connect them to the new pump.

For the plumbing: Adapter hose to the filter, outlet hose (12mm) from the filter to the inlet of the pump, pump to the hose to the right side of the engine. The hose that was connected to the "Y" gets connected to the return line, using your new piece of HP FI hose. Done.

If you're gonna move the pump, ask Chris Foley about the plumbing requirements and run a new positive wire from the original FP wiring to the front and make a short ground wire to somewhere convenient in the front. Splice with a good quality butt connector and shrink tubing, don't solder. Better connection, better current flow.

The Cap'n

[jbachert]

I am ordering lines and a pump from Chris @ Tangerine.

I think I may replace the lines while I am at it.

John

[jbachert]

I was able to replace my lines and get a new style pump installed in the rear.

One weird thing I found (and I don't know how long it was this way on the car) is that at some point somebody obviously messed with things because the return and supply inlet were switched on the fuel tank and the return was running into the tank through the screen and being supplied out of the hole without the screen.

I am not sure what the inside of the tank is plumbed like, but I would think at the very least with it this way I would have run out of gas before the fuel gauge was reading empty (assuming the return returns higher than the supply?).

Sometimes you wonder who, how or why these things happen.

[Kraftwerk]

What are the benefits of moving the pump to the front?

I see potentially easier access if it is in the trunk or maybe not if it is below the tank < a negative

Also one line is needed instead of two.. thats a plus!

A cooler running pump: thats good.

[JamesM]

What are the benefits of moving the pump to the front?

I see potentially easier access if it is in the trunk or maybe not if it is below the tank < a negative

Also one line is needed instead of two.. thats a plus!

A cooler running pump: thats good.

All of the above, vaper lock is the big one, but I find that a lot of cars have the rear shelf where the pump mounts to be destroyed, and access back there is a PITA. I think it unclutters the fule line routing a lot. If you get the 75-76 mount then working on it becomes much easier as you are not on your back with gas dumping on you.

[Cap'n Krusty]

What are the benefits of moving the pump to the front?

I see potentially easier access if it is in the trunk or maybe not if it is below the tank < a negative

Also one line is needed instead of two.. thats a plus!

A cooler running pump: thats good.

Well, you're somewhat right. Pump runs cooler. But you still need 2 lines, otherwise you have no return circuit and your fuel pressure will soar out of sight. The downside is the plastic lines weren't meant to be run under pressure, so they should be changed, and you'll need to adapt the various connections you've changed. Personally, in 40 years of wrenching on 914s I've NEVER seen a case of vapor lock. A third of that time was spent in the greater Los Angeles area, so don't come back at me about hot driving conditions.

The Cap'n

[914_teener]

I mounted the later pump on the rear firewall on the passenger side with the stock mounts and some rivnuts.

Easy to get to and less work. I have had the car out in 110 temps here in stop and go traffic and no problems with vapor lock since I moved it and went to the later pump.