Fuel Tank Removal Options

[watsonrx13]

I've begun my fuel delivery upgrade with the removal of the fuel tank. Everything went as planned until I needed to remove the tank from the car. The article, from PP, suggested that I lift the passenger side and cut the fuel lines at the bottom of the tank. I was unable to lift the tank high enough on the passenger side, but I was able to lift it on the drivers side (the rubber lines were about 4" long). The only way I was able to cut the lines was with a hacksaw blade. After removing the tank from the car, the next problem I ran into was removing the metal fuel lines from the bottom on the tank.
After removing the large nut, how do I remove the line (see attached pic)?
Do I need to keep the larger line (3/8") or the smaller line (5/16") if I'm running dual webers?

[watsonrx13]

After I've cleaned the tank with water I'll use the POR fuel tank kit. The attached pic shows the products: marine clean, metal ready, and fuel tank sealer.

[Porsche Rescue]

The larger line is the "out" line , smaller is the return. Looks like the large line is stuck in place by corrosion. You should be able to pull/twist it out. It will have a metal screen filter on it which is probably pretty clogged up. You need to clean or replace it. Or you can eliminate it as long as you install a filter before the pump.

[Brad Roberts]

So.. the PP site didnt say a damn thing about pulling the splash shield out from under the car and reaching up (you can see them from under the car) and cutting them from below ??LOL

Your playing with fire by removing those lines... If I recall correctly..the seals below them are NLA (No Longer Available) sooo unless they are leaking.. leave them alone and use some 3M scotch bright to clean them up.

I would leave both lines in place and cap the return line back near the firewall. This will allow gas to stay in the plastic lines in case you hate carbs 3 years from now and decide to go back to injection (or convert the car to 6 cyl w/Motronic.


B

[watsonrx13]

Hey B, I cut the rubber lines between the fuel tank and the firewall. Yea, I read Haynes, where they suggested you reach into the access hole and disconnect the lines, yea right...
After cleaning the tank, my next hurdle is to replace the plastic lines in the center tunnel. Do you recommend replacing with aluminium or standard rubber fuel lines?
This is what was in the tank:

[Brad Roberts]

OUCH. Replace the tank. Every 914 parts place has 10-20 good ones (at least in this area).

Actually..its very easy to reach under and do the lines for the tank. You can see them clearly. How do you think the last person installed the hose clamps on the short lines you found ?? (from underneath)

Tough call on the lines.. I have used both and (rubber and stainless). The rubber goes quickly.. the stainless takes several hours. Both have worked fine for me.

B

[Zeke]

When switching to carbs, I left the smalller return line and installed a short hose and a petcock to drain the tank if I want to. I ran Aeroquip push on hose from the bigger line a few inches to a truck brake line. That's 3/8ths steel. It wont rub thru from vibration. At least not as fast as aluminum. Easy to push thru the tunnel. Once in the engine bay, I went back to Areoquip to the filter, then the pump, next the regulator and then the tee.

[watsonrx13]

Thanks Milt, do you have any pics of your set up?
Does anyone have any pics of the line/filter after it's been removed?

[Elliot_Cannon]

I just got my fuel tank back from the shop. (Clean and reseal). I removed the two fittings from the bottom of the tank before I sent it to the shop. Now I can't remember... was there a rubber gasket in those fittings that I can't find now or is it a metal to metal seal?? I turned 57 this month and short term memory isn't what it used to be. (Getting old is a bitch but considering the asternative I guess it's not too bad.)
Cheers, Elliot

[ChrisFoley]

IIRC, the seal between the metal fitting and the tank is phenolic (thermoset resin impregnated fiber), not rubber or metal. A crush washer (aluminum or copper) of the right size would work fine.

[watsonrx13]

It's metal to metal (see pic). Don't forget the filter on the larger line. My bad, after checking the Haynes manual, yes there is a gasket. I just checked the PP BBS and Dave says they're NLA, therfore, I'll need to find a substitute that is impervious to fuel. I've completed the metal etching and I'm in the process of drying the tank before resealing. Stay tuned...