Driver Side Rear End, Wheel / Tire Rubbing Options

[martinef1963]

Hello. Last week or so I chimed in on a thread about Bilstein's adjustable perch. The consensus was to start on the 3rd level from the bottom.

I did, however, the driver's side tire still rubbed on the quarter panel lip, however, did not on the passenger side (close, but still).

Today I moved the perch up to the 5-tier and the tire is still rubbing on the lip - on the passenger side much better clearance.

I did note that the driver's side wheel sits out further than the passenger side and all other wheels. I took a look at the CV joints to see if there was a difference between side, however, did not see anything that would make me think it would be the CV joints.

I inspected the A-arm and it appears to be solid, no signs of rust or break(s). Can someone throw some ideas out at me. I drove this car out from California in 2002 / 2003 and didn't have this problem.

I initially suspected the CV joints because when we did the rebuild the CV were removed and reinstalled.

I will get some pictures so you guys can see exactly what I am talking about.

thanks,

Fern

[martinef1963]

Here is a picture of the driver side tire, as it sits out further away from the car. This is the same tire size that it had when I drove it out fro California.

[martinef1963]

Passenger side.

[mepstein]

what size wheel and tire?

[Spoke]

Something doesn't look right there. That driver side tire is way out compared to the pass side.

Is the rear end in alignment?

How much is the gap from the inside of the tire to the fender well on each side?

[martinef1963]

what size wheel and tire?

the size of the tire is P185/65R15 - the weird thing about it is that they are the same wheels and size tires that they had in Cali - I bought new tires before I drove her out to the east cost - same size.

I didn't have any issues with them, then I had the engine rebuilt and thought the CV joints might have been put on wrong, I will take some pictures of both sides and forward.

Four or more eyes are better than two.

thanks,

[mepstein]

those tires should fit with room to spare. Something is assembled wrong.

[martinef1963]

Something doesn't look right there. That driver side tire is way out compared to the pass side.

Is the rear end in alignment?

How much is the gap from the inside of the tire to the fender well on each side?

Prior to rebuilding the engine I had it aligned and it drove fine with respect to alignment / height. I can cup my fingers on the passenger side with no problem, about 1 1/2 to 2 inch clearance - can't get my finger in between the driver's side and on the 5th perch???

Fern

[r_towle]

Would not be the cv joint, it would be the trailing arm and how it was mounted and adjusted.

Rich

[brant]

That toe looks crazy. Do you have a print out of the alignment numbers? I'm betting they have slipped. Could be that the guy used an air wrench and stripped the trailing arm adjustment hardware?

[martinef1963]

Rich, Brant,

The trailing arm, which I mistakenly called it A-arm earlier was not removed / adjusted.

The alignment was done a while back. I will take a look today and see if I am missing something from the trailing arm (how the left differs from the right installation).

thanks,

Fern

[brant]

But loosening and adjusting the trailing arm is how a rear alignment is performed. It might be the pictures. But put a tape measure on the rear and check your rear toe

[sixnotfour]

Is this how it looked before ?? maybe the stub shaft nut never got tightend when they serviced the CV's if they pulled it as an assembly ?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) but then the brakes would bind ??
Or like others have said something moved ..

[SirAndy]

As stated above, it looks like the toe and camber are way off.
That has nothing to do with where the spring sits on the perch.

When aligning these cars, you use shims at the front mount of the trailing arm to add/remove camber.
You also rotate the trailing arm in the same location to adjust toe.

Seems like you have way too much toe-in and positive camber on that side.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[bulitt]

Is the suspension ear broken/rusted out?

[rjames]

maybe the stub shaft nut never got tightend when they serviced the CV's if they pulled it as an assembly ?? confused24.gif

What I was thinking.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[SLITS]

the nut on the stub axle should not have anything to do with the position of the wheel.

If they removed the hub and didn't get it fully seated in the bearing, it could move the wheel out as the wheel position is directly related to the position of the hub.

Shoot a pic from the rear of the car showing both wheels in their rest positions. If, as mentioned, the drivers side in a position like this \ , it would equal to much positive camber.

Wheels should look like this / \ from the rear (not quite that radical though).

My $0.05

[76-914]

I gotta go with Brant or Bullit. Either the tech stripped it out/didn't tighten it and said it didn't need alignment thereby taking himself out of the circle of blame or it's a rust issue.

[BKLA]

I'd also check the control arm - I had one that looked right but was bent when compared to stock spec's.(unfortunately, it was one that I had installed new bushings.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ) If the cars been hit or tagged a curb hard enough, that could bend the control arm or the inner mount (ear).

[Dave_Darling]

Though most crash damage will tend to push the wheel into the wheel well. And the trailing arm tends to fail in a noticeable way before the suspension ear moves. (Don't ask how I know this! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) )

--DD