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> FAG versus SWF rear bearings, what is the difference in quality?
FourBlades
post Nov 18 2013, 04:11 PM
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We need a new rear bearing for the chump car.

I noticed FAG are 38 and SWF are 82 from the bird board.

Is the SWF better quality?

Will the concours judges ding us? :-)

John
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dlestep
post Nov 18 2013, 04:55 PM
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FAG (Fat American Guy)= 38 - cheaper, but I don't swing that way.
SKF (Southern Kinky Female) = 82 - a little more of everything !

I have used both. They are equal in wear. However you must look at the
material specifications to really know.
Check Ball bearing material and process.
Check Race material and process.
~

http://www.fag-skf-nsk.com/en/channel/fag-...ements-569.html
This site has the normal mumbo-jumbo, but take notice of the ethic of
design by failure mode determining material & processes.
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dlestep
post Nov 18 2013, 05:00 PM
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Remember, these days, e v e r y t h i n g is made in China.
Even though SKF is a Swedish company, they get their stuff from the same
people using 142 + vendors.
Go german if you can. They make the best bearings.
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Jeff Hail
post Nov 18 2013, 07:10 PM
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Have used just about every brand of sealed cartridge bearings known. I've smoked a good FAG and banged an SWF. Had both last and both fail. Both are decent brands. Luck of the draw. Based on average cost I go with the FAG but have been known to find SWF's cheap once in a while.
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FourBlades
post Nov 18 2013, 07:11 PM
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Thanks Dave!

Checking the material used is beyond my pay grade.

If people have had positive experiences with FAG it would help to know.

John
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r_towle
post Nov 18 2013, 07:44 PM
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Check the car you are putting them into...
FAG will be perfectly fine.
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914Sixer
post Nov 18 2013, 08:27 PM
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The bearings seem to be shifting to different parts of the world depending on the production run. I have seen both FAG and SKF made in Germany, France, Spain and Mexico. These changes have been occurring from the 1980's to present. Both are good bearings and equal in quality. The price seems predicated on previous name recognition.
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FourBlades
post Nov 18 2013, 08:43 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Nov 18 2013, 06:10 PM) *

I've smoked a good FAG and banged an SWF.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Thanks Jeff!
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wndsnd
post Nov 19 2013, 07:53 PM
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Don't know where I bought them without looking at a gazillion receipts,

But I put in two and one is bad out of the box

Now I need to redo a trailing arm

50/50 who it is.
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FourBlades
post Nov 19 2013, 09:33 PM
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QUOTE(wndsnd @ Nov 19 2013, 06:53 PM) *

Don't know where I bought them without looking at a gazillion receipts,

But I put in two and one is bad out of the box

Now I need to redo a trailing arm

50/50 who it is.


Inquiring minds want to know...

For those of you who lived through the 70s...

John
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Cap'n Krusty
post Nov 19 2013, 09:36 PM
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In the end, installation technique makes the biggest difference, hands down.

The Cap'n
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FourBlades
post Nov 19 2013, 09:55 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 19 2013, 08:36 PM) *

In the end, installation technique makes the biggest difference, hands down.

The Cap'n


I like how the Pelican article says you need to use the Brute Strength and Ignorance (BS&I) method to remove the old bearing... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

From the Pelican article it seems like pressing on the outer race of the bearing to install the bearing into the trailing arm, and then only pressing on the inner race when installing the hub are keys to not damaging the new bearing.

Anything else to watch for?

John
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ThePaintedMan
post Nov 19 2013, 10:11 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6CxhlpOvng


The master himself explains it nice and methodically for us (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Jon B
post Nov 19 2013, 11:09 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 19 2013, 08:36 PM) *
In the end, installation technique makes the biggest difference, hands down.

Here is how Porsche recommended doing it.

Rear axle bearing is installed using tool P302.
Attached Image


Wheel hub is drawn into bearing using tool P298b.
Tool is first threaded onto axle shaft.
Attached Image


Tool P298b wheel hub installer
Tool P302 bearing press pad
Attached Image

Jon B.
Vista, CA
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rhd914
post Nov 20 2013, 04:54 AM
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Ok, so split the difference and get one of each.
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DEC
post Nov 20 2013, 07:30 AM
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QUOTE(dlestep @ Nov 19 2013, 12:00 AM) *

Remember, these days, e v e r y t h i n g is made in China.
Even though SKF is a Swedish company, they get their stuff from the same
people using 142 + vendors.
Go german if you can. They make the best bearings.


SKF = Schweinfurter Kugellager Fabrik
A very old German industrial company

These parts are DIN-Parts with the same specs from
any vendor in Germany

DIN=Deutsche Industrienorm=German industrial norm (standard)
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Jon B
post Nov 20 2013, 11:02 AM
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QUOTE(DEC @ Nov 20 2013, 06:30 AM) *
SKF = Schweinfurter Kugellager Fabrik
A very old German industrial company

SKF
Svenska Kullagerfabriken AB
Gothenburg, Sweden

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SKF

SKF does have manufacturing plants in Germany.

Jon B.
Vista, CA
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Downunderman
post Nov 20 2013, 12:46 PM
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Don't use SNC made by the Frogs. I have had a bad experience.
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Jon B
post Nov 20 2013, 01:20 PM
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QUOTE(Downunderman @ Nov 20 2013, 11:46 AM) *

Don't use SNC made by the Frogs. I have had a bad experience.

SNR
Societe Nouvelle de Roulements
Annecy, France

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/NTN-SNR_Roulements

Excellent bearings
Now part of the NTN Group

Jon B.
Vista, CA
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r_towle
post Nov 20 2013, 02:31 PM
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QUOTE(FourBlades @ Nov 19 2013, 10:55 PM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 19 2013, 08:36 PM) *

In the end, installation technique makes the biggest difference, hands down.

The Cap'n


I like how the Pelican article says you need to use the Brute Strength and Ignorance (BS&I) method to remove the old bearing... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

From the Pelican article it seems like pressing on the outer race of the bearing to install the bearing into the trailing arm, and then only pressing on the inner race when installing the hub are keys to not damaging the new bearing.

Anything else to watch for?

John

Think about the bearing and its construction, along with all the friction and force you create while installing the unit.

When pressing it into the hub, all the friction is on the outer race.
If you press on the inner race, you stand a very good chance of twisting, bending, or racking the bearing.

Then, when you go to install the inner stub axle, all the friction is on the inside of the inner race....
So, hold that in place when pressing.

I remove the trailing arm, bring it to the press, and do it there.

Rich
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