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> idle on a 2056 with 9590 cam
jmargush
post Dec 12 2013, 03:50 PM
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I am having trouble getting my new 2056 with a 9590 cam to idle. When I start it is idles around 500rpm or lower and I can't speed it up with the by pass screw.

I am running L-jet injection
I hear a hissing sound when the engine is idling but I cannot find a vacuum leak, plenum couplers are new and all other hoses are in good shape.

I can't find the hissing with a mechanics stethoscope so I was going to try to find a leak with propane but it has been too cold to work on it lately.

The idle does seem to get a little better after it has warmed up a bit I think, it has been several weeks since I have had it out.

One question I had is does the new cam require any change to the mixture? if so how do I go about adjusting the mixture?

Thanks in advance for any input
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Cap'n Krusty
post Dec 12 2013, 04:23 PM
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QUOTE(jmargush @ Dec 12 2013, 01:50 PM) *

I am having trouble getting my new 2056 with a 9590 cam to idle. When I start it is idles around 500rpm or lower and I can't speed it up with the by pass screw.

I am running L-jet injection
I hear a hissing sound when the engine is idling but I cannot find a vacuum leak, plenum couplers are new and all other hoses are in good shape.

I can't find the hissing with a mechanics stethoscope so I was going to try to find a leak with propane but it has been too cold to work on it lately.

The idle does seem to get a little better after it has warmed up a bit I think, it has been several weeks since I have had it out.

One question I had is does the new cam require any change to the mixture? if so how do I go about adjusting the mixture?

Thanks in advance for any input


You set the timing per l-jet instructions?

The Cap'n
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jmargush
post Dec 12 2013, 06:13 PM
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Yes

One question though, when I set the timing I set it to 900 rpm after the vacuum advance lines are removed and plugged correct or set it while they are connected and then remove?

with thee lines plugged should the idle change as the distributor is rotated? If so rotate it till it is 7.5 degrees BTDC and then lower the idle with the idle adjustment screw?
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Jake Raby
post Dec 12 2013, 06:18 PM
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What are the rest of the engine specs?
You may find drilling a 1/8" hole in the throttle plate will help. There are times when the engine moves more air at idle than the stock idle bypass screw will allow for.
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jmargush
post Dec 12 2013, 06:50 PM
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2.0 Heads were done by Len Hoffman
CR 8.56:1
Full Raby valve train kit
Stock L-jet throttle body, air cleaner, and intake runners
stock 2.0 heat exchangers
pertronix ignition

Anything else that I am not listing?
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jmargush
post Dec 12 2013, 06:55 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Dec 12 2013, 05:18 PM) *

What are the rest of the engine specs?
You may find drilling a 1/8" hole in the throttle plate will help. There are times when the engine moves more air at idle than the stock idle bypass screw will allow for.



Would this be a induced by the better cam?
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r_towle
post Dec 12 2013, 07:06 PM
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Sounds like you are doing the timing properly.

With L-jet, the idle speed lowers if there is a vacuum leak, and the car will not start at all if there is a leak to large.

With D-jet, the idle speed will increase with an air leak, same as with carbs.

Before you go and modify things, check everywhere for leaks, again.
It amazes me how I miss leaks the first five times I look for them....

Typically I find all the leaks the last time I look for them.
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Jake Raby
post Dec 12 2013, 07:43 PM
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QUOTE(jmargush @ Dec 12 2013, 04:55 PM) *

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Dec 12 2013, 05:18 PM) *

What are the rest of the engine specs?
You may find drilling a 1/8" hole in the throttle plate will help. There are times when the engine moves more air at idle than the stock idle bypass screw will allow for.



Would this be a induced by the better cam?


The entire engine combination. Thats what its all about, moving more air! Its doing its job.
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jmargush
post May 31 2014, 09:48 AM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Dec 12 2013, 05:18 PM) *

What are the rest of the engine specs?
You may find drilling a 1/8" hole in the throttle plate will help. There are times when the engine moves more air at idle than the stock idle bypass screw will allow for.



Jake hopefully you'll see this and and offer some advice.

I have a AF ratio meter with wide band O2 sensor hooked up now.
I still didn't drill the hole in the throttle plate but i am wondering if the symptoms are pointing that way.
here's where I am at:
L-jet 2056 9590 cam
No vacuum leaks that I can find, plenum removed and pressurized to check for leaks
All other hoses are new

Idle is somewhere between 300 and 500 rpm with AF reading 26-28
If I crack the throttle and bring the rpms up to 900 I get numbers closer to 16-17 (this was just a first glance) which lead me back to the 1/8" hole in the throttle plate.


Does this point to needing that hole so I can even get the idle up to where the AF is giving relevant logical readings?
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crash914
post May 31 2014, 11:49 AM
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If its that lean, there has to be a leak...if you add a hole, that will just add air...is your idle stop screw set right?

Valve adjustment will make a big impact to the idle...ask me how I know...
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jmargush
post May 31 2014, 05:35 PM
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What is the right setting for the idle screw? Is I back it out all the way it doesn't really change the idle much.

I took an extra TB and drilled an 1/8" hole and had noticeable improvement. I could actually get the idle to change a little with the screw, particularly after it was warmed up.

I guess I can always go back and check the valve adjustment just to see if it makes a difference.
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crash914
post Jun 1 2014, 08:42 AM
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on the other hand, if it works.......
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ChrisFoley
post Jun 1 2014, 10:45 PM
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Have you read up on how to tune L-jet?
Are you familiar with the bypass screw on the air flow meter?
Have you tried adjusting it?
Its doubtful that drilling a hole in the throttle plate will improve the function of your system.
The idle is so low because there isn't enough fuel for the amount of air getting in the engine.
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Jake Raby
post Jun 2 2014, 10:39 AM
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QUOTE
Its doubtful that drilling a hole in the throttle plate will improve the function of your system.


I disagree.


QUOTE
The idle is so low because there isn't enough fuel for the amount of air getting in the engine.


I disagree. The idle is low because the engine that is now breathing more effectively at idle speed now has a much greater demand for chamber filling. Because of this the air bypass screw becomes extended so far that idle air often fluctuates.

Drilling the throttle plate allows bypass air to occur, thus reducing the amount of air that must pass through the factory idle air bypass circuit. Drilling the throttle plate with this combination is often required, especially at lower elevations, as air density effects the bypass volumes even more.

The other thing that can impact this is initial timing advance, the key to tuning this combination is optimizing initial advance, advance curve and idle air bypass quantity. After these are complete, one can move to enrichment.

Thats my input as the designer of the camshaft profile, and they guy that has not only made it work a couple thousand times; but also made it work the first time.
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crash914
post Jun 2 2014, 10:53 AM
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hmmm.. this would explain why I have to use the throttle stop to get the idle I want...the bypass screws don't do much if anything.

I don't pull a very large vacuum at idle..but can get a pretty decent 800 rpm..
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Jake Raby
post Jun 2 2014, 12:01 PM
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QUOTE(crash914 @ Jun 2 2014, 08:53 AM) *

hmmm.. this would explain why I have to use the throttle stop to get the idle I want...the bypass screws don't do much if anything.


Exactly.


QUOTE
I don't pull a very large vacuum at idle..but can get a pretty decent 800 rpm..


You can't have vacuum without chamber filling. You can't have chamber filling without intake volume.
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crash914
post Jun 2 2014, 02:29 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) got it! thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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jmargush
post Jun 2 2014, 02:34 PM
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I read the article online about tuning L-jet which has been very helpful.

I richened the mixture up all the way and the engine still would not idle. So I tried the hole in the throttle plate and I am much closer to getting numbers that are more in line with where the mixture should be.

The article stated to move the static mixture till you got idle close I couldn't even get close. the mixture screw on the meter is only supposed to be used to fine to mixture at idle

right now my numbers are:
Accel - 12.4-13.7
WOT - 12.1-12.7
Cruise - 12.6-13 Too rich I know
Idle 12-14 I am still having some fluctuation in the idle and it not coming down after driving

So do I lean it out more to bring the cruise mixture down and then richen up the dynamic to keep the other numbers where they are?
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jmargush
post Jun 2 2014, 02:36 PM
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Jake,

I have the timing set at 7.5 BTDC@800rpm now

you mentioned timing in your last post, Is there more I need to do with this?
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Porschef
post Jun 2 2014, 02:52 PM
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I have a 9550 cam, with Ljet. Whereabouts might this hole get drilled? I'm chasing my last (hopefully) vacuum leak this evening, and depending on how that affects things, I may need to try the drill my idle still hunts at temp.
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