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> How noisey is "normal", 2 liter lifters
newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 09:04 AM
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How noisey is normal on a 2 liter w/solid lifters? After adjusting the valves [some were a little tight] they seem a little noisy once it warms up [only at idle]. I know a local Porsche shop goes to hydaulics on his re builds and noise is one of his reasons. He says it quites them down quite a bit.
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Mark Henry
post Dec 30 2004, 09:17 AM
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QUOTE (newdeal2 @ Dec 30 2004, 11:04 AM)
I know a local Porsche shop goes to hydaulics on his re builds and noise is one of his reasons. He says it quites them down quite a bit.

Find a new porsche shop...one that knows what a Type 4 engine is....

QUOTE
After adjusting the valves [some were a little tight] they seem a little noisy once it warms up [only at idle].


Hmmmm...the valve train is noisy compared to a new WC car engine but not that bad. Either you messed up the valve adjustment or the worst case is the rivets on your cam gear are coming loose.
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newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 09:25 AM
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QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Dec 30 2004, 07:17 AM)



Hmmmm...the valve train is noisy compared to a new WC car engine but not that bad. Either you messed up the valve adjustment or the worst case is the rivets on your cam gear are coming loose.

Wow...sounds scary but it's a new webcam and bolted to spec with red loctite.

It's noisey but not "real noisy" I opened up the exhaust valves to .008 and that's when they became more pronounced. I recently had a customer [who worked on type 4's] say a little valve noise is better than none. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
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newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 09:26 AM
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WC ??
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rhodyguy
post Dec 30 2004, 11:15 AM
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water cooled i think. hyd lifters can be noisy too until they pump up.

kevin
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Mark Henry
post Dec 30 2004, 12:48 PM
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.008 is too much and is the main cause of your noise.

Try .006 and if your confident with your adjusting skills you could try .004.

If using aftermarket steel pushrods you can set them at 0 lash.

Yeep...WC = watercooled....just meant it will never be as quiet as newer cars...one of those things you have to live with.
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newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 01:11 PM
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QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Dec 30 2004, 10:48 AM)
.008 is too much and is the main cause of your noise.


Everywhere I have checked recently has said on a 2 liter it's .006 on intake and .008 on exhaust. Are you saying .006 on all is best?
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nebreitling
post Dec 30 2004, 01:36 PM
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on my 2.0 i set them 004 intake 005 exhaust.

eliminates the diesel soundtrack, some say it makes a bit more power.

just check them more often, you'll be okay.
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Joe Ricard
post Dec 30 2004, 07:16 PM
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I run mine a SNUG .006 and .008 Probably .005 and .007 for most folks. They make alittle noise when engine is cold. But quieten down when the motor gets up to temp. I also run the living piss out my engines and AX the car at least once a month. I normally check them the day after I get home from the AX. Ever since I had the universal joint instaled in my right arm adjusting valves is a snap. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/lol2.gif)
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Ray Warren
post Dec 30 2004, 07:18 PM
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QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Dec 30 2004, 01:48 PM)
.008 is too much and is the main cause of your noise.

Try .006 and if your confident with your adjusting skills you could try .004.


Mark
I ment to ask you about this when I picked my engine.
What did you set the valves at?
I am assuming .006
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Jake Raby
post Dec 30 2004, 08:04 PM
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Do you have stock pushrods, or are they chromoly replacements?

The source of alot of sound can be remedied in the side clearance of the shafts, as well as replacing the valve adjuster screws. Worn screws may give a .006 reading with a feeler gage, but since they are worn may make noise that they should not.

My engines don't clatter.
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Mark Henry
post Dec 30 2004, 08:15 PM
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QUOTE
I am assuming .006


Yep, I set all my new engines at .006, check it after your first run and again at 500miles...after that you're good to go.

I tell customers to set it at .006 because I don't know how good their abilities are. When I set them it's .006 on the intakes and .004 on the exhaust. Only do this if you check your clearance every oil change.

I do know that the factory sodium valve spec is .008 and 1800 and 1700 engines are .006, but I've never had a problem tighting up these spec's.
(BTW it's not the only spec I've played with on some of my engines (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) )

Most engine builders do whatever has worked for them in the past...that's why you may get different answers to this question.
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newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 08:28 PM
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QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Dec 30 2004, 06:04 PM)
Do you have stock pushrods, or are they chromoly replacements?

The source of alot of sound can be remedied in the side clearance of the shafts, as well as replacing the valve adjuster screws. Worn screws may give a .006 reading with a feeler gage, but since they are worn may make noise that they should not.

My engines don't clatter.

Stock pushrods . I originally set them on the bench at .006 across the board and after run in they changed a little on a couple of the exhaust valves...say .004.
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newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 08:33 PM
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QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Dec 30 2004, 06:15 PM)



I tell customers to set it at .006 because I don't know how good their abilities are. When I set them it's .006 on the intakes and .004 on the exhaust. Only do this if you check your clearance every oil change.


I do have sodium valves [new].

Why do you use a tighter clearance on the exhaust valves?

I guess it wouldn't hurt to change out the adjuster screws as Jake suggested. I think they are the originals but have a 14mm nut.
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newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 08:35 PM
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BTW I went from springs to solid spacers[on the rocker shafts]. Any noise related to these?
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Jake Raby
post Dec 30 2004, 08:51 PM
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Most solid spacers are machined sloppily....

Thats where the noise is coming from- betcha

I make my own spacers just because of this.. Chances are that you don't need solid spacers....

My favorite spacers for stockish engines (up to 6500RPM capable) are the stock units from a 78-83 bus that originally was equipped with hydraulic lifters. These are solid spacers but had springs to keep the lash out...
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Mark Henry
post Dec 30 2004, 08:55 PM
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QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Dec 30 2004, 10:51 PM)
Most solid spacers are machined sloppily....

Thats where the noise is coming from- betcha


Jake nailed it! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)
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newdeal2
post Dec 30 2004, 09:08 PM
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QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Dec 30 2004, 06:51 PM)
Most solid spacers are machined sloppily....

Thats where the noise is coming from- betcha




I guess I can just re install the old springs. I did note they had no wavy washers. Are these part of the 2.0 assembly? Sounds like a tight job under the car though (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif)

But until then I assume it's just a nussance?
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DJsRepS
post Dec 31 2004, 06:58 AM
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Hi Jake can you post a pic of your spring loaded spacers. Is there a rocker centering thing going on with the spacers?... I put mine together the way I took it off not putting much thought into the spacers or the adjuster studs for that matter. Mine are adj around .004 to 5 on all and sounds fine to my ears. How do your spacers make the valve train quiter?
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Jake Raby
post Dec 31 2004, 08:54 AM
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My solid spacers are machined to give .003 side clearance, thats probably .010 less than what yours currently are.

My trick with the hydraulic spacers cures most issues and leaves engines as quiet as a mouse!

Most places that sell you parts, don't build engines and even if they do they are just slapped together. They have no idea what they are selling, or how it works because its not been tested!
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