Coolant leak question Renegade conversion Options

[HalfMoon]

So, I've discovered a little coolant leak in my older Renegade SB conversion.
It's coming from the upper driverside engine coolant outlet (pictured). Quite difficult to access. Hard to know if it's the hose clamp (adjustment tightening un-accessable until and unless some things are gotten out of the way) or the black housing that the hose attaches to, or the aluminum housing that bolts to the block.
Probably the only way to know what the heck is going on is to access and remove.
Here's the question. Of you Renegade conversion owners or those who have direct experience working on one, is it better to remove the drivers side valve cover to access this housing or come from below removing the auxiliary water pump to access the area?
Sidebar question. Is the black spigot that the hose is attached to supposed to "swivel" a bit or is it in fact LOOSE? I see that some of the other spigots (elsewhere) do swivel slightly and some don't (none of them that swivel or not are leaking).
So....I wonder if I'll access from on high or from below.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Looks like pipe thread, so no, it shouldn't move even a little bit.

The Cap'n

[speed metal army]

It also looks plastic. They come loose easier than aluminum or steel..

[bulitt]

This is what you have. Renegade advises to seal the Gann fitting (plastic) with either pipe sealer or sealing tape, then tighten.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-13632-1345679355.jpg)

[chads74]

Like Cap'n said, shouldn't move at all. If you don't have enought sealing tape that would allow them to leak also. I could see the fittig moving if you were trying to get to something and pushed on the hose which turned the fitting, maybe see if you can tighten it with everything still attached. I know its a long shot, but sometimes they just need to tighten a tiny bit to seal up. If you HAD to access it for removal I would think from the top would be your best bet as it sits above the engine shelf attached to the firewall.

[Nine_14]

Be careful when tightening. Plastic parts loosing the chemical softener after becoming hot and cooled down for many times and getting cracked easily

Looks like the connection is sealed with teflon tape. Put some new tape in place and take care for winding direction of the tape.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Having been a tech/shop owner for 40 years gives me a little experience with plastic coolant fittings on German cars. I think it's NUTS! I've changed literally hundreds of failed plastic cooling system parts. They get brittle and fracture, hot coolant erodes them, looking at them funny causes leaks. Some aftermarket cooling system parts are made of aluminum because the market is there for a better product!

The Cap'n

[Nine_14]

Having been a tech/shop owner for 40 years gives me a little experience with plastic coolant fittings on German cars. I think it's NUTS! I've changed literally hundreds of failed plastic cooling system parts. They get brittle and fracture, hot coolant erodes them, looking at them funny causes leaks. Some aftermarket cooling system parts are made of aluminum because the market is there for a better product!

The Cap'n

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

For manufactures plastic is the cheapest way, for mechanics it is a predetermined breaking point.

[r_towle]

That looks like a stand type fitting.
Might want to see if it's available in brass or aluminum given how hard it looks to service.

Also, based upon the picture above, if you can get the hose off it looks like you might be able to take the aluminum plate off and fix the fitting on the bench...

Might be able to do it without removing the engine....not sure based upon your picture.

[bulitt]

One more for the road...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-3419-1349638784.jpg)

[HalfMoon]

This is what you have. Renegade advises to seal the Gann fitting (plastic) with either pipe sealer or sealing tape, then tighten.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-13632-1345679355.jpg)

Awesome picture! Yes, that's what I have indeed. It appears as if the PO had used sealing tape. I'm actually not sure if it's leaking from the threads or the hose clamp. Since the hose clamp is mounted in such a way not to be accessable from the bottom, I'm afraid I'll have to remove a valve cover to gain that necessary access to check tightness and since I'm gonna be there anyway, might as well remove the entire housing and re-seal it, right?
Pita but I think easier than removing the pump and gaining access from below.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Having been a tech/shop owner for 40 years gives me a little experience with plastic coolant fittings on German cars. I think it's NUTS! I've changed literally hundreds of failed plastic cooling system parts. They get brittle and fracture, hot coolant erodes them, looking at them funny causes leaks. Some aftermarket cooling system parts are made of aluminum because the market is there for a better product!

The Cap'n

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

For manufactures plastic is the cheapest way, for mechanics it is a predetermined breaking point.

Perzactly ..............

The Cap'n

[MMW]

If you have to remove this I would at the least replace the plastic elbow just because you are in there anyway. As stated already lots of heating/cooling cycles equals a brittle part. Better to find a replacement in brass, my opinion.

[HalfMoon]

If you have to remove this I would at the least replace the plastic elbow just because you are in there anyway. As stated already lots of heating/cooling cycles equals a brittle part. Better to find a replacement in brass, my opinion.

Yes! I'm trying to source that now. I was thinking the same thing.

[SLITS]

Check with a Boat Shop for the fittings ...

[Downerman]

Great timing. I recently bought a 73 with a 450 Hp SBC and in the process of a complete restore to what I call the ultimate wolf in sheeps clothing. Going to even have a luggage rack on the back. Anyway, ordered the A/C upgrade and also found out that the PO had the 1" 90 degree elbows (Brass) then a reducer to 3/4" Renegade is all 1" now so I'm upgrading. Also found out that what I will be getting are the plastic pieces. Nope..... going to use my brass ones and get 1" ribbed instead of the 3/4".

Here's pics of mine currently.

[HalfMoon]

Great timing. I recently bought a 73 with a 450 Hp SBC and in the process of a complete restore to what I call the ultimate wolf in sheeps clothing. Going to even have a luggage rack on the back. Anyway, ordered the A/C upgrade and also found out that the PO had the 1" 90 degree elbows (Brass) then a reducer to 3/4" Renegade is all 1" now so I'm upgrading. Also found out that what I will be getting are the plastic pieces. Nope..... going to use my brass ones and get 1" ribbed instead of the 3/4".

Here's pics of mine currently.

Interesting configuration.
Like you I think I'll go with brass. I wonder if they make Gann fittings in brass? The square shape would make it easier to cinch down, no?
Btw, was yours in the car when you removed the fitting? If so, did you access it from above or below?

[HalfMoon]

Here's a Groco fitting (in the menu select 1" NPT), 28 and change
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userp...CFXRo7Aod8i0AOg
But I think I like the square shape of the Gann better. Tried West Marine with no luck. I wonder if and where a Gann brass 1"NPT can be found?

Update-
Gann has them in zinc (which isn't a perfect solution, dissimilar metals, corosion over many years) and will sell to the public if you press them a bit
http://www.gannproducts.com/fittings.htm

I've heard that a company called Saweet has brass fittings in this size similar to Gann's....

[Downerman]

My entire engine is out along with glass, rubber and interior. Makes it very easy of course. Tightening them up or loosening them was not an issue with a proper pipe wrench. I'm just jones-en because I bought the car and it's been over a month in the body shop getting a zillion dents taken out and then a fresh new coat inside and out of Porsche - Silver metallic.

Seriously, dropping this engine was so simple I wouldn't mess trying to get in there and deal with that. Raising the car's rear end while the engine was on a dolly would make that a much simpler task in my twisted mind.

Downerman

Great timing. I recently bought a 73 with a 450 Hp SBC and in the process of a complete restore to what I call the ultimate wolf in sheeps clothing. Going to even have a luggage rack on the back. Anyway, ordered the A/C upgrade and also found out that the PO had the 1" 90 degree elbows (Brass) then a reducer to 3/4" Renegade is all 1" now so I'm upgrading. Also found out that what I will be getting are the plastic pieces. Nope..... going to use my brass ones and get 1" ribbed instead of the 3/4".

Here's pics of mine currently.

Interesting configuration.
Like you I think I'll go with brass. I wonder if they make Gann fittings in brass? The square shape would make it easier to cinch down, no?
Btw, was yours in the car when you removed the fitting? If so, did you access it from above or below?

[HalfMoon]

Update-
Found a 1" brass NPTF (better), 1" barb that's perfect and cheap ($14.51-scroll to bottom of page)
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/129.htm