moving fuel pump to front, fuel pump |
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moving fuel pump to front, fuel pump |
hndyhrr |
Aug 4 2014, 09:51 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 555 Joined: 1-September 13 From: central point,oregon Member No.: 16,332 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Pumpkin is a 1970 4 cyc. I am planning on moving the pump to the front of car. I have replaced the fuel lines thru the tunnel with stainless steel lines. So here are a couple of questions i have.
In the tech article about this it says something about a blister bracket (?) where do i get this. do i need to replace the plastic lines from the firewall to the engine compartment? I found that tangarine has the fuel line that is bigger on one end and smaller on other for the fuel pump, good idea to get this one? I thought at one point in time AA has a kit but i will not go there. anyone else sell this kit? Any thoughts, hints or don't do it ths way suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Renee (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif) |
SLITS |
Aug 4 2014, 10:30 AM
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#2
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Pumpkin is a 1970 4 cyc. I am planning on moving the pump to the front of car. I have replaced the fuel lines thru the tunnel with stainless steel lines. So here are a couple of questions i have. In the tech article about this it says something about a blister bracket (?) where do i get this.'75 - '76 914 do i need to replace the plastic lines from the firewall to the engine compartment?If you are talking about the ones that run from the fuel pump/filter up throuht the engine shelf ... they are made by Robert I found that tangarine has the fuel line that is bigger on one end and smaller on other for the fuel pump, good idea to get this one?Depends on if you use the stock filter I thought at one point in time AA has a kit but i will not go there. anyone else sell this kit?You can purchase the hose & clamps most anywhere Any thoughts, hints or don't do it ths way suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Renee (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif) |
Mblizzard |
Aug 4 2014, 10:34 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Assume this is FI?
Not sure on the blister bracket. Which article references it? For me, I would replace all of the plastic. If you have the SS tunnel lines, call Chris and see if he has a replacement for the plastic lines at the pump. Because you will have to remove the tank, inspect it for debris and rust and change the fuel tank sock. Chris has those also. If you can get the fuel pump access cover from a late car I would cut the hole under the tank and install the pump just like the late cars. A lot to go through but worth while when changing the fuel filter. |
JawjaPorsche |
Aug 4 2014, 11:20 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,463 Joined: 23-July 11 From: Clayton, Georgia Member No.: 13,351 Region Association: South East States |
Instead of moving your fuel pump to front, consider moving it to the firewall. I moved mine 20 years ago with no problems.
Got stainless lines from Chris at Tangerine. Used a later model fuel pump and got rid of the Y return line to the fuel pump. Attached image(s) |
Dave_Darling |
Aug 4 2014, 05:46 PM
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#5
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The 75-76 cars have a "blister" in the front trunk that is held onto the rear bulkhead by a couple (four?) screws. The pump is bolted to the inside of that bracket, and the filter is nearby. That's the "blister bracket" you're reading about. It's nice and makes things cleaner, but not required.
A requirement is to run at least a power wire up from the relay board (or the stock pump electrical plug) to the pump's new location. The old AA kit gave you some telephone wire and instructed you to drill holes all over the car to poke it through. I prefer running a new wire of the same gauge or larger than the original, alongside the main wiring harness. If you don't want to cut a hole in the rear bulkhead of your front trunk, you can mount the pump in the steering rack compartment under the car. There is room, though it can be a little tight in spots. The fuel hose layout depends in large part what pump you use, and in part what size hard lines you have. If you use the stock three-port pump, you will have to make all the same connections that were made before (tank to filter, filter to S on pump; D on pump to supply line in center tunnel; return line in tunnel to Y fitting, Y to tank and to R fitting on pump) and you'll need to make sure the hoses are correct for the sizes of the fittings on all of those. Going with the later pump means only two ports, but one is I think much larger. Going with an aftermarket pump means you get to figure out what sizes and connections it needs, which may be simpler or more complex. --DD |
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