Heat Exchangers, can any maintenance be done? (YES: updated) |
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Heat Exchangers, can any maintenance be done? (YES: updated) |
malcolm2 |
Jan 6 2015, 09:17 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
I am preparing to send Dr Evil a patient, my crunchy, grindy trans. I decide to remove the exhaust and the HEs to give me some room.
The HEs are complete, but they do have some loose rusty areas. Mainly at the fan end. Even a hole in one where the axle dimple is. The welds on both ends are loose or broken. I am probably losing some heat efficiency. if there is such a thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Is there anything that I can do while the trans is gone to close up some holes and tighten up the seams? I found some repair tape made for this sort of thing. I used another similar product on my 85 VW Cabriolet. I cut up a coke can and patched the hole, then wrapped it in the heat sensitive material. Once the muffler got hot it all sealed up. Anyone do anything to these old exhausts and HEs? dealing with a '75 BTW. Thanks, Clark |
mepstein |
Jan 6 2015, 09:22 PM
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#2
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,578 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Sounds like a bigger problem than a coke can and duct tape can fix
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colingreene |
Jan 6 2015, 09:27 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 730 Joined: 17-October 13 From: Southern California Member No.: 16,526 Region Association: Southern California |
i repaired mine, it can be done.
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malcolm2 |
Jan 6 2015, 09:38 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
Sounds like a bigger problem than a coke can and duct tape can fix Maybe I made it sound worse than it is. here are some pictures. Both sides are loose. This one is not loose, but not sealed either. Is that the way it worked in '75? Here is the hole in the dimple. And the other FAN end. And the COKE Can repair. It was the tail pipe, I thought it was the muffler, which is looking pretty ruff too. Time to kill 2 birds on this post. |
infraredcalvin |
Jan 6 2015, 09:46 PM
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#5
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Distracted Member Group: Members Posts: 1,564 Joined: 25-August 08 From: Ladera Ranch, CA Member No.: 9,463 Region Association: Southern California |
Whatever you use it needs to resist the high heat of the exhaust pipe. While you're looking, be sure there are no cracks or holes in the actual pipes, the escaping exhaust will get pumped into the cabin when you turn on the heat.
You could probably repair by solder or brazing a patch.... |
malcolm2 |
Jan 6 2015, 09:51 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
I have some FIBER FIX, but they have a style that I should use instead. It is good for 850 degrees. I see now that the regular stuff is only good to 300*F.
https://www.fiberfix.com/product/new-heat-wrap-2-x-70/ |
ndfrigi |
Jan 6 2015, 10:13 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,956 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Orange County Member No.: 13,474 Region Association: Southern California |
Sounds like a bigger problem than a coke can and duct tape can fix Maybe I made it sound worse than it is. here are some pictures. Both sides are loose. This one is not loose, but not sealed either. Is that the way it worked in '75? Here is the hole in the dimple. And the other FAN end. And the COKE Can repair. It was the tail pipe, I thought it was the muffler, which is looking pretty ruff too. Time to kill 2 birds on this post. Exactly same issue on my 75 HE that is why i went to early HE. |
r_towle |
Jan 6 2015, 10:23 PM
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#8
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,638 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Best thing you could do with those is toss them in a lake and see if they float.
Then find a nice set of early heat exchangers and give yourself 10-15% more power and lower heat from the engine. |
rhodyguy |
Jan 7 2015, 07:42 AM
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#9
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,192 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
....and REAL heat. Do the backdate. Hardest part of the project is pulling off the late system. Lots of muffler options too.
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malcolm2 |
Jan 7 2015, 10:08 AM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
....and REAL heat. Do the backdate. Hardest part of the project is pulling off the late system. Lots of muffler options too. It is all off NOW.... But my accountant said I could pay Dr. Evil for the Tranny. Not sure if I could slip new or better HE and exhaust in during this repair. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Are there any differences as far as attaching early HE to a '75 1.8 exhaust ports? And will the hook up to the fan and the heat tubes use be included as it is with the '75 HE? |
malcolm2 |
Jan 7 2015, 10:17 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
He is a picture of the early HE currently for sale in Oregon. The connection to the fan and the cock-pit tube is not built-in like my '75s are. more parts = more $.
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rhodyguy |
Jan 7 2015, 10:17 AM
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#12
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,192 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
you will need to covert to the earlier ducting system. those darned accountants get in the way every time. the 1.7/1.8 and 2.0 he's will bolt right up.
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monkeyboy |
Jan 7 2015, 10:45 AM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 808 Joined: 8-June 08 From: Los Angeles, Ca Member No.: 9,147 Region Association: None |
I am pretty sure you will need the whole kit. New exhaust, new exhaust hanger, new muffler, new J Tubes, new heater flappers, and a dual outlet blower if you don't have one.
It wasn't as bad for me. My car came with nothing so I had to buy it all anyway. |
rjames |
Jan 7 2015, 10:48 AM
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#14
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,132 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Convert. It's one of the biggest 'stock' improvements you could make to your car for relatively little $. If you look hard you can probably really do it right and find a set of stainless exchangers and a muffler for $400-$600.
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rhodyguy |
Jan 7 2015, 11:02 AM
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#15
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,192 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
A is where the warm air elbows attach. B is where the branch ducting attach. So...2 elbows, the left and right branches and clamping parts, l&r j tubes and a set of flapper valves. Your current valves should work if serviceable. The appropriate muffler hanger will be required for which ever version of he's you decide to go with. The 2.0 differ from the 1.7/1.8.
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malcolm2 |
Jan 7 2015, 11:21 AM
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#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
you will need to covert to the earlier ducting system. those darned accountants get in the way every time. the 1.7/1.8 and 2.0 he's will bolt right up. I've been practicing my "searching" and found lots of old ads with pictures. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) did I get it right? It looks like the 2.0 HEs have shorter and "flatter" pipes from the HE to the muffler flange. Is that the difference? Then comes the diffs with the muffler, I guess. Am I missing any other diffs? |
rhodyguy |
Jan 7 2015, 11:40 AM
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#17
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,192 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Correct on the 2.0 he's and where the pieces attach. Those look like a clean set of 1.7/1.8s.
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Chris H. |
Jan 7 2015, 11:41 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,046 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Correct sir. The 1.7/1.8 muffler flanges are curved upwards at the end whereas the 2.0's are nearly straight on. This means you need a different muffler and muffler hanger depending on the ones you get. The heater stuff on the other end is the same for both styles of early HE's.
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bdstone914 |
Jan 7 2015, 11:48 AM
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#19
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bdstone914 Group: Members Posts: 4,696 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 |
you will need to covert to the earlier ducting system. those darned accountants get in the way every time. the 1.7/1.8 and 2.0 he's will bolt right up. I've been practicing my "searching" and found lots of old ads with pictures. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) did I get it right? It looks like the 2.0 HEs have shorter and "flatter" pipes from the HE to the muffler flange. Is that the difference? Then comes the diffs with the muffler, I guess. Am I missing any other diffs? You also need the earlier warm air guides. Those are the plates that go between the heat exchangers and the engine case. And a matching muffler bracket for which ever type muffler you get. The only parts from you system that are used are the flapper boxes. I gave most if not all of those parts and a pair of SSI heat exchangers if you decide to go that route. |
barefoot |
Jan 7 2015, 11:50 AM
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#20
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,326 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States |
If your CFO won't approve the backdate budget, lots of 75-76 H/E's are around that folks will about give away. Can tide you over till the checkbook fattenes up a bit
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