Lighten trunk lid, Gut stock lid or anyone got aluminum? |
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Lighten trunk lid, Gut stock lid or anyone got aluminum? |
bpick84 |
Mar 1 2005, 09:08 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Hopkinsville, KY Member No.: 173 |
I need to lighten the trunk lid on my race car. (I don't want fiberglass and cannot use carbon fiber). Has anyone gutted a lid of the support structure? Is the lid a single sheet of metal or does it have a liner? Does anyone know of someone who makes an aluminum lid skin?
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xsboost90 |
Mar 1 2005, 09:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,393 Joined: 2-August 04 From: cincinnati Member No.: 2,432 |
you should be able to grind around the inside edge of the lid, and w/ some careful prying and scraping get the skit cut off of the frame. Then make some mounts in the trunk like-6- and put some zchus fasteners on it.
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iamchappy |
Mar 1 2005, 09:23 PM
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#3
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It all happens so fast! Group: Members Posts: 4,893 Joined: 5-November 03 From: minnetonka, mn Member No.: 1,315 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The steel ones lose all rigidity without the inner structure and become very flimsy and would bend easily.
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TravisNeff |
Mar 1 2005, 09:31 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
You could cut the steel skin off the hood frames, then wrap it in alumninuminuminnujum , fold over the edges and bond with autobody epoxy.
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neo914-6 |
Mar 2 2005, 01:24 AM
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#5
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neo life Group: Members Posts: 5,086 Joined: 16-January 03 From: Willow Glen (San Jose) Member No.: 159 |
Drill LOTS of holes in the structure...
Acid dip it until it's thinner... Remove the hinges and latch and use rubber latches... Look elsewhere to reduce weight... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) |
Brando |
Mar 2 2005, 02:32 AM
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#6
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
I like the drilling holes idea.
Just drill lots of holes all over the car. Although it might whistle a bit when you go faster than 40mph... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) |
neo914-6 |
Mar 2 2005, 02:55 AM
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#7
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neo life Group: Members Posts: 5,086 Joined: 16-January 03 From: Willow Glen (San Jose) Member No.: 159 |
Not if you stretch light weight Saran wrap over it... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) Wait, cut out everything except the basic framework and stretch material over it like old planes... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif) |
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Joe Ricard |
Mar 2 2005, 06:57 AM
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#8
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CUMONIWANNARACEU Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Gautier, MS Member No.: 92 |
I Paul already beat you to that.
Funny you should mention that aluminum thing. I have been meaning to go down to the local sheet metal shop and see what they can do. I think maybe a hybrd lid, cut the steel skin off use the frame as a mold to make smaller fiberglass frame. then get aluminum sheet hammered into shape and bond it all together. |
xsboost90 |
Mar 2 2005, 07:00 AM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,393 Joined: 2-August 04 From: cincinnati Member No.: 2,432 |
just get some buttons and some vinyl and make a tonneau cover. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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JmuRiz |
Mar 2 2005, 08:43 AM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,434 Joined: 30-December 02 From: NoVA Member No.: 50 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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brant |
Mar 2 2005, 09:41 AM
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#11
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,639 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
no pictures with me, but I did it and already have it in fresh paint for my race car.
You can't do the front due to the force of oncoming air that would just fold it in. But we did the back. After cutting out the full structure, the single sheet panel of metal is too flimsy to even hold its shape when set back on the car in a horizontal position. We re- reinforced it Used Balsa wood strips...(like a GT) our rules say that we can not use a fiberglass panel and that the panel must remain metal. So... using panel adhesive, we glued in aluminum stops on rt/left sides. Then cut balsa wood strips that are 1/2 inch long. Place them in between the stops and they bow the panel back up into shape. We glued the strips in with the polyurathane construction adhesive (is it PL-21?) and then smoothed and filled the cracks. Had the underside painted with the top. Looks good I saved the full cut out frame, thinking it would be interesting to re-skin it in alloy someday. Cut the weight by about 11lbs total (If I remember correct) I think its 22lbs now? |
TravisNeff |
Mar 2 2005, 10:10 AM
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#12
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Brant you gotta post a pic from up top and down below!
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brant |
Mar 2 2005, 10:17 AM
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#13
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,639 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Ok..
car is 300 miles away at the moment.. I still have to install it onto the chassis, but will try to do so soon and post pics |
groot |
Mar 2 2005, 11:48 AM
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#14
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Dis member Group: Members Posts: 896 Joined: 17-December 03 From: Michigan Member No.: 1,444 |
Brant,
How thick was the aluminum you used? |
brant |
Mar 2 2005, 12:37 PM
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#15
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,639 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Kevin, I haven't made an aluminum one (yet) the one I made was from the original sheet metal without the skeleton frame. techinically an aluminum one might not be legal in my vintage class. (however, since I have the skeleton I will be making an aluminum one after I get the race car on the track and a motor back in my street car... probably in july-ish) |
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groot |
Mar 2 2005, 12:48 PM
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#16
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Dis member Group: Members Posts: 896 Joined: 17-December 03 From: Michigan Member No.: 1,444 |
Being a cheapskate and still wishing to lighten my car, I may use some 0.040" aluminum I have left over from my trailer build. Even though I already make min weight (1870 with driver) pretty easily.
BTW... with 0.040" the skin should be ~9 pounds. I'm also interested in making my own because the trunk lid may be square, but the opening isn't, so I'll need to tweak anything I put on it. So, it may be easier done with aluminum than a fiberglass mold..... I'll let you know how it turns out. |
groot |
Mar 2 2005, 12:52 PM
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#17
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Dis member Group: Members Posts: 896 Joined: 17-December 03 From: Michigan Member No.: 1,444 |
Brant,
If your rules say the trunk needs to stay metal.....and doesn't specify steel, you could capitalize on that. |
bpick84 |
Mar 2 2005, 01:29 PM
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#18
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Hopkinsville, KY Member No.: 173 |
brant..thanks for the input. groot, the trunk lid is not square. I looked at it with a sheet metal man who has rollers, etc. The back is rolled over and radiused from side to side. A roller will not roll the back lip right. It is not as easy of a skin to copy as it looks like.
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groot |
Mar 2 2005, 01:36 PM
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#20
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Dis member Group: Members Posts: 896 Joined: 17-December 03 From: Michigan Member No.: 1,444 |
Yep, I noticed that. I'm going to try, but I won't be using a roller to do it. It may not work, but I going to lay the alum over the current lid and gently beat the snot out of it and then use shaped reinforcements to hold the shape. I'm not too worried about the edges looking pretty... race car only.
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