REMOVE Heater controls and fresh air box? Options

[itchybro]

I'm in the process of trying to extract bit's from a "parts car" that mine doesn't have.

I got the gas tank out last night and hope to tackle the ventilation system this evening. (Tho I'm also trying to extract the wiring harness. Should I do that first?)

Also would help if i could get the dash off too.

(This is my first "try to save and not destroy what you need" project. ANY advice is appreciated.

This helped a lot. I just need to do it in reverse

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1066336

Thanks
Phil

[barefoot]

have to install mine as well, but have heard that removing the 2 vertical straps helps get the center air box in there, probably need to gently pry up in the cowl.
i have also shaved a lithe plastic off one end of the 2 diverter valves where they enter the firewall so they will slip into place. Otherwise I could not get them in for a test fit.

[Rob-O]

have to install mine as well, but have heard that removing the 2 vertical straps helps get the center air box in there, probably need to gently pry up in the cowl.
i have also shaved a lithe plastic off one end of the 2 diverter valves where they enter the firewall so they will slip into place. Otherwise I could not get them in for a test fit.

Probably the biggest reason people have a hard time with the diverter valves is because everyone seems to want to do this without completing a difficult task. Either they shave part of the diverter tangs (or accidentally snap them off) during disassembly or they want to disassemble the two parts of the diverter system. By two parts I mean the upper portion that goes to the windshield defrost vent and the lower portion that goes down through the firewall.

These diverter valves would have been installed at the factory BEFORE the dash was installed in the car. If you want this job to go smoothly then you want the dash off first. There is a ton more 'wiggle' room to get the valves fitted when the dash isn't on the car. Yes it's a crappy job, but for the OP if you're trying to save parts without breaking them, pull the dash first. It's 4 nuts (all in the front trunk under the cowl, four screws (two on each side of the dash, accessible after you remove the knee pad) and one bolt (under dash near the climate control panel).

Not coincidentally, taking the upper dash pad off (or putting a new one on) is easier this way too. There was no slim fingered German installing the upper dash pad nylon nuts on (especially under the gauge cluster area!) back in the day. The dash was assembled (at least the vinyl upper area and the upper dash pad) and installed on the car as one piece.