weight loss |
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weight loss |
Schnell944 |
Jun 11 2003, 09:55 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 121 Joined: 4-January 03 Member No.: 86 |
ok, i've been stripping the 914 of its innards lately...got the seats out , carpet, rear panel w/ the light in it and such. I was wondering, are there any easy ways to loose a little weight on this car? ....like the padding behind that panel behind the seats w the light? ....it looks like sound deadening material....is it worth it to remove this? also...i know the AC doesnt work, if I have it....and Im not even sure, but I can see a big plastic box with "BEHR" on it, connected to ducting....is this part of the AC or just part of the heating and ventingn system? If I do have AC, what's the best way to go about removing it all. thanks!
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Mueller |
Jun 11 2003, 10:06 AM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
QUOTE Schnell944 Posted on Jun 11 2003, 07:55 AM ************************************* *. I was wondering, are there any easy ways to loose a little weight on this car? Lay off the Twinkies and Guiness (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) Oh wait, that is me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) If you car has A/C, the ducting will be under the dashpad with about 4 vents. It's held on with a few sheetmetal screws. On mine the hoses went up to the front on the passanger side. The sperator was on the inner fenderwell on the right front. More hoses went to the back of the car in the rockerpanel. I just cut the hoses knowing that there was no refrigerant in the lines. It's easy to remove it all, the PITA will be filling up all the holes that they punched in the firewall and fenderwells. The pad behind the back pad is a heavy sucker, but it will make the car louder once the top is on the car. I removed mine, but I will install something else to help dampen the noise, it will just be lighter whatever it is. What year car do you have? I have a '74 and I know the window mech. are heavy, I think the use of a plasma cutter can help that problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Bleyseng |
Jun 11 2003, 10:08 AM
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#3
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,035 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
The box with "Behr" is the fresh air box with a fan in it.
For weight loss, go to fiberglass bumpers,trunk lids, light rims, rip out all the tar soundproofing on the floors, take off all the undercoating, sound pads. Geoff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/splat.gif) |
Schnell944 |
Jun 11 2003, 12:33 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 121 Joined: 4-January 03 Member No.: 86 |
what's the best way to go about removing the tar soundproofing?
btw, my car is a '72 |
Lawrence |
Jun 11 2003, 12:55 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,661 Joined: 5-February 03 Member No.: 244 Region Association: None |
Heat gun and a putty knife. Clean up residue with brake cleaner.
-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) |
Bleyseng |
Jun 11 2003, 01:34 PM
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#6
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,035 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
A 72 then, hope it still has the light doors. Because you're are already lighter than the later (73-76) cars.
Geoff |
mskala |
Jun 11 2003, 01:44 PM
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#7
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None |
If your car is drive-worthy, drive it now and fix it during the
colder season. Of course you can pull the tar and not spend ages doing it, but if you are going to the trouble, you should do all the prep and use POR-15 everywhere to prevent rust. All these cars have had water leaked in a bunch of times over the years. Doing the wire-wheel work and metal prep and POR-15 takes mucho hours. My POR15 pics |
Schnell944 |
Jun 11 2003, 02:16 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 121 Joined: 4-January 03 Member No.: 86 |
makes sense mark....i think I'll leave the tar alone for now and just clean up the area.
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914werke |
Jun 11 2003, 02:34 PM
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#9
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,120 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Having ripped air out of two cars now DONT just cut and leave the lines. Remove the rockers usually to find extensive rust where holes had been cut to run them. The sill supports and the front long bulkhead(?) are usually compromised beyond thier intended purpose so plan or replacing them. BTDT
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Mueller |
Jun 11 2003, 02:36 PM
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#10
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
I removed the AC lines, I just cut them to make removal much easier and faster than properly unconnecting them.
I do plan on removing the rocker panel to inspect that area for sure.... |
Schnell944 |
Jun 11 2003, 02:50 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 121 Joined: 4-January 03 Member No.: 86 |
im scared to remove the rockers, hold me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Schnell944 |
Jun 11 2003, 03:46 PM
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#12
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Member Group: Members Posts: 121 Joined: 4-January 03 Member No.: 86 |
do all the '72 cars have the lighter doors?
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mskala |
Jun 11 2003, 06:06 PM
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#13
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(Schnell944 @ Jun 11 2003, 04:46 PM) do all the '72 cars have the lighter doors? Yes, all the '72 models and some (few?) of the early '73 models had the light doors. The window channel without felt (used plastic rollers on window) is usually the giveaway, but if you take off the door panel you will see that there is nothing but door skin (and schutz) behind the works. I know you should be scared to remove rockers, but it's better to clean and find out early if tinworms are eating. It is possible to leave all the top rivets in, but take out the bottom screws and bend it outward to just look and clean. (IMG:http://members.rennlist.com/marks/build.gif) |
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