Electronic choke, PO cut the wires Options

[Chaznaster]

Hi. My son and I are starting to work on a '74 1.8 converted to a single Weber carb setup. The POs tore out most of the wiring and sensors.

A few weeks ago when the weather in MA was warm she started easily. Today it was 40 degrees F and we could not get her started. We had fuel and a spark.

Would it help to get the choke rewired? I would think so ...

I read somewhere about using a + connection off the coil??

Many thanks.

[quote]

[SLITS]

The bi-metallic electric coil inside needs a switched, constant 12 VDC source. From the coil is an easy connection, but in cold conditions and a weak battery the choke could pull sufficient voltage to drop the volts to the coil and make it not function correctly. You have an AAR valve wire in the engine harness and as I remember it is white. This would be a better source for your needed 12 volt source.

When cold the choke flapper is closed. When the key is turned, constant power is applied to the coil. As it heats up it will open the choke flap.

The should also be adjustment screw(s) on the linkage to adjust fast idle.

A long runner and cold weather do not make for a great starting solution anyway, but activating the choke, with a couple of pumps on the loud pedal might get you going when it is cold.

[Montreal914]

Unfortunately, the single Weber setup is far from being the ideal one. Too bad the F.I. was removed. Chances are that your fuel in condensing in the long intake runners.

You might want to also check if the bellows type thermostat is still properly installed and functioning. Without going into details, it activated flaps in the air cooling network that will allow the engine to warm up before blowing all the cooling air on the cylinder heads and cylinders.

I'm sure others will chime in quickly...

[Spoke]

Were you able to get it started by holding the choke closed? This would guide you on whether the choke was needed or not.

I had a setup like that and had the choke powered. Worked good on first start-up, but in cold weather after brief stops, the choke and carb would cool a lot faster than the engine block and heads. Thus when starting up after a brief stop, the carb would cool and the choke would close flooding the engine. So I had to push the accelerator to the floor to get it to start (flooring it opens up the choke).

Do what you can to get this single carb working while you decide to go with dual carbs or fuel injection.

BTW,
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[Chaznaster]

Thanks so much. Lots to take in and process. I know the single Weber is not ideal but a good starting point ?! Sounds like I might play with connecting the choke. We will work on it this week. Sorry but as a newbie: where would I find the AAR valve wire? The bellows seem to be working fine ...

[Chaznaster]

Thanks Spoke for the welcome! I think k will be here a while

[SLITS]

Sorry but as a newbie: where would I find the AAR valve wire?

There are two main connectors on the relay board ... main body harness is a 14 pin connector on the forward end of the relay board. Off the rear is a 12 pin connector known as the "engine harness. This harness should have a white wire that was used for the AAR.