Nervous About Wiping Out a Cam Lobe, How to Make Sure it DOESN'T Happen Options

[VWTortuga336]

I'm finally about to start assembling my 2366. Right now, I'm most nervous about wiping out a lobe on my new cam, a SCAT C35 (.495 lift, 285 duration) - I am using matching SCAT lifters.

Really just wanting to get my plan on paper and front of this audience to make sure I'm on the right track and to put my mind at ease. Here's what I'm thinking:

1) Use graphite spray on cam and lifters
2) Liberal application of the supplied assembly lube (the thick stuff) to the cam and lifters
3) Since the lifters have a lube hole in the center of them, prime them with assembly lube
4) Fill pushrods with oil
5) Use Brad Penn break in oil
6) Don't install rocker arms until after oil pressure is built so I don't wipe off the assembly lube during the pressure building process

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Jetsetsurfshop]

#3. I had those lifters on my last build. Did you check that the lube hole in the lifter was clear? I had one that the hole didn't go all the way through.

[Bulldog9]

My .02

1) Overkill, the cam assembly/breakin grease and breakin oil are fine.
2) Yes make sure is well coated. I also wiped some on the face of the lifter as well as the ends of the pushrods/rockers, etc.
3) Overkill and good luck trying, those are needle thin holes
4) a squirt or two with oil can should be fine
5) Yes, this is a must.
6) Yes. I did this but remember this will only fill the lower journals and bearings. Lifter bores and pushrods/upper valvetrain will not pressurize and oil pressure will not build until you have it all installed.

Most importance is guaranteeing the engine will start (good spark, proper orientation of rotor, plug wires, static timing and fuel supply) a proper breaking of the cam, generally keep throttle at 2500-3000 RPM for 20-30 minutes depending on the cam manufacturer.

I understand your stress, did this myself just a few weeks ago....

I'm finally about to start assembling my 2366. Right now, I'm most nervous about wiping out a lobe on my new cam, a SCAT C35 (.495 lift, 285 duration) - I am using matching SCAT lifters.

Really just wanting to get my plan on paper and front of this audience to make sure I'm on the right track and to put my mind at ease. Here's what I'm thinking:

1) Use graphite spray on cam and lifters
2) Liberal application of the supplied assembly lube (the thick stuff) to the cam and lifters
3) Since the lifters have a lube hole in the center of them, prime them with assembly lube
4) Fill pushrods with oil
5) Use Brad Penn break in oil
6) Don't install rocker arms until after oil pressure is built so I don't wipe off the assembly lube during the pressure building process

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[VWTortuga336]

#3. I had those lifters on my last build. Did you check that the lube hole in the lifter was clear? I had one that the hole didn't go all the way through.

I haven't checked this yet, but I will before install. Thanks for the heads up.

[PotterPorsche]

Do u have the cam lubricant that came with the cam?

Use brad penn break in oil. Do you know of the zinc issue with modern oils?
If not u have some homework.

Brad penn or joe Gibbs Ln engineering

Redline assembly lube for bearings
Cam torco mpz or us lubricants assembly lube

A trusted vw engine builder suggested us lubricant . Been using it ever since no problems.

http://www.uslubricants.com/u-s-lubricants-products/

[Jake Raby]

The cam blank thats used makes all the difference. only two companies make cam blanks for these engines, EP/ CWC and Integral. If its an Integral blank, well, approach with care.

[McMark]

Lube it like you're supposed to, make sure the engine builds oil pressure before firing, use proper oil, and break in the motor at the first fire-off.

Beyond those basics, there's nothing you can do to change the outcome. A flat cam is generally due to bad parts as long as you don't ignore the above.

[stugray]

After doing all of the research about the oil systems in the engines, I have two more suggestions:

1 - DONT prefill the filter when installing it on an engine that has never run. It will take even longer to prime the pump.

2 - IF you want to pre-prime the pump, then you can remove the oil filter bracket and slowly pour oil (old fashioned oil can would be perfect) into the lower hole in the case. This will backfill the pump from the top. If you could turn the engine backwards a one full turn while doing this, the pump would be primed and reach pressure faster.

And I used a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify pressure during cam breakin. I didn't want any question about pressure at that point.