Snapped a couple of outer CV bolts, Need some advice on repair |
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Snapped a couple of outer CV bolts, Need some advice on repair |
phillstek |
Dec 31 2015, 05:47 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 350 Joined: 19-May 10 From: Byron Bay, Australia Member No.: 11,741 Region Association: None |
Backing out of the drive at the office on Xmas eve I heard a loud snapping sound from the right rear of the car. I managed to move the car forward a few meters and heard another snap though not as loud and decided that I probably shouldn’t try to continue without checking out the source of the noises.
Got underneath and found the outer, righthand side CV had come completely loose but with all six of the bolts still there. Got it home on a flat bed, up the jack stands and dropped the axle to find 2 of the bolts had snapped off but only one of them with the broken end still in the drive flange. Checked the other threads in the drive flange for damage and other than the one that has a piece of the bolt in it, one other thread is damaged. There is also a small burr on the recess in the drive flange where the paper gasket mounts between it and the CV. I’m pretty sure the drive flange can be repaired but wanted confirmation on the removal procedure. If I undo the big castle nut on the stub axle should I be able to drift the drive flange out through the back of the trailing arm and is re-intallation the drive flange the reverse? Stubs are 911 5 lug and the drive flange is 6 bolt. I also have a spacer between the CV and the drive flange. The spacer is the outer ring of a CV and compensates for the difference between using the original 914 driveshafts. I’ll post some pics later which should help. Thanks. |
Mike Bellis |
Dec 31 2015, 05:55 PM
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#2
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
Mine comes out with just a couple hits with a dead blow hammer (castle nut removed first).
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bdstone914 |
Dec 31 2015, 05:58 PM
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#3
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bdstone914 Group: Members Posts: 4,529 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 |
Backing out of the drive at the office on Xmas eve I heard a loud snapping sound from the right rear of the car. I managed to move the car forward a few meters and heard another snap though not as loud and decided that I probably shouldn’t try to continue without checking out the source of the noises. Got underneath and found the outer, righthand side CV had come completely loose but with all six of the bolts still there. Got it home on a flat bed, up the jack stands and dropped the axle to find 2 of the bolts had snapped off but only one of them with the broken end still in the drive flange. Checked the other threads in the drive flange for damage and other than the one that has a piece of the bolt in it, one other thread is damaged. There is also a small burr on the recess in the drive flange where the paper gasket mounts between it and the CV. I’m pretty sure the drive flange can be repaired but wanted confirmation on the removal procedure. If I undo the big castle nut on the stub axle should I be able to drift the drive flange out through the back of the trailing arm and is re-intallation the drive flange the reverse? Stubs are 911 5 lug and the drive flange is 6 bolt. I also have a spacer between the CV and the drive flange. The spacer is the outer ring of a CV and compensates for the difference between using the original 914 driveshafts. I’ll post some pics later which should help. Thanks. Yes you can remove the drive shaft after removing the castle nut. Clearance to the trans is tight. After assessing the damage and reinstalling the new parts make sure you use new Schnorr washers. Probable 10mm if you have the larger 911 CV's. A good trick is to put a dap of paint in the edge of the CV bolt to the flange to see if it is backing out. They probably got loose and fatigued. |
rgalla9146 |
Dec 31 2015, 07:34 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,561 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
It will be very difficult to remove either halfshaft without lowering the transaxle.
And removing the starter. |
r_towle |
Dec 31 2015, 07:38 PM
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#5
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,585 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Seeing as you already dropped the axle, as you stated in your post (for those of us patient enough to read) it will simply be a few hits with a decent hammer to remove it.
Use blue locktite on the new bolts when you reassemble. Make sure it is super clean, clean all the threads. Rich |
TheCabinetmaker |
Jan 1 2016, 07:31 AM
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#6
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,301 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
Do not move the car with the wheel on the ground, and axle out. You'll trash the bearing.
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Bartlett 914 |
Jan 1 2016, 08:50 AM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I would remove the output flange and chuck it in a lathe and make a cleanup cut on the face. When these things come loose, the surface is often a little messed up. Facing it will help insure the bolts don't work loose again. New washers are needed but will not guarantee they won't back out if the mating surfaces are not perfectly mated
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stinkindiesel |
Jan 1 2016, 02:34 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 184 Joined: 14-June 13 From: Georgetown, TX Member No.: 16,012 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I'm getting a chuckle out of the comments that a few hits with a dead blow hammer will
get the shaft out. I spent a couple of days with PB Blaster and hot wrench before the impact hammer got the castle nut off. I've yet to find the magic to get the splined shaft to come loose :^( Hopefully, 2016 will be a new experience! Gary |
Mike Bellis |
Jan 1 2016, 11:48 PM
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#9
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
I'm getting a chuckle out of the comments that a few hits with a dead blow hammer will get the shaft out. I spent a couple of days with PB Blaster and hot wrench before the impact hammer got the castle nut off. I've yet to find the magic to get the splined shaft to come loose :^( Hopefully, 2016 will be a new experience! Gary I got my castle nut off with a big impact gun. Then I wacked the end of the threads with my dead blow and it popped out. Easy as pie. |
Mark Henry |
Jan 2 2016, 08:06 AM
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#10
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
I'm getting a chuckle out of the comments that a few hits with a dead blow hammer will get the shaft out. I spent a couple of days with PB Blaster and hot wrench before the impact hammer got the castle nut off. I've yet to find the magic to get the splined shaft to come loose :^( Hopefully, 2016 will be a new experience! Gary I use a 3/4 breaker bar and a 2,4 or 6 foot pipe to crack the big nut. This will crack VW bug 36mm and 46mm bus axle nuts, the 914 big nut is nothing compared to them. Warning... wheels have to be on the floor for this. Hardest blow you can safely knock the stub or hub out with is a large brass drift and a BFH. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Big enough brass drift and you can use a sledge hammer, of course this would be a two guy job, but I've never ever had to go that far. The brass drift distorts, not the stub/hub. Even the crustiest come out with that combo. BTW use good judgment when doing above, even if your not damaging the hub you could start bending other shit, especially on a crusty car. Really it should start moving 1st/2nd blow with a BFH. |
stinkindiesel |
Jan 4 2016, 02:47 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 184 Joined: 14-June 13 From: Georgetown, TX Member No.: 16,012 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Hardest blow you can safely knock the stub or hub out with is a large brass drift and a BFH. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Big enough brass drift and you can use a sledge hammer, of course this would be a two guy job, but I've never ever had to go that far. The brass drift distorts, not the stub/hub. Even the crustiest come out with that combo. BTW use good judgment when doing above, even if your not damaging the hub you could start bending other shit, especially on a crusty car. Really it should start moving 1st/2nd blow with a BFH. 8 lbs sledge and a brass drift did nothing on one, though it did knock the other loose (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Yeah, I'm worried I'm going to knock the car clean off the jack stands. I wouldn't have said this car was crusty either. Spent all it's life in New Mexico and west Texas. Gary |
Mark Henry |
Jan 5 2016, 06:07 AM
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#12
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Well then...surprised the BFH and drift didn't knock it out.
Worst case scenario is to remove the whole trailing arm and have the hub, stub and/or bearing pressed out. |
76-914 |
Jan 5 2016, 10:34 AM
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#13
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,507 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
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NeunEinVier |
Jan 5 2016, 10:57 AM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 110 Joined: 24-December 15 From: In front of the smoke. Member No.: 19,488 Region Association: None |
Shouldn't be an issue if using a brass drift on a hardened axle shaft, but in general I like to leave the nut flush with the end of a shaft or stud when hammering the threaded end.
Leaving the nut on helps prevent the end of the shaft from mushrooming if the metal is soft, so you don't have to run a die over the threads later. |
mgp4591 |
Jan 5 2016, 12:31 PM
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#15
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,380 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Shouldn't be an issue if using a brass drift on a hardened axle shaft, but in general I like to leave the nut flush with the end of a shaft or stud when hammering the threaded end. Leaving the nut on helps prevent the end of the shaft from mushrooming if the metal is soft, so you don't have to run a die over the threads later. That's what I've done also. When you reinstall the axle, use some anti-seize on the axle splines ONLY. That way it should pop out easily the next time. The threads must be clean to properly torque the axle nut- usually 2 threads past the cotter key hole will bring it to torque specs if the proper wrench isn't available but I'd still have it checked as soon as possible. |
phillstek |
Jan 5 2016, 02:32 PM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 350 Joined: 19-May 10 From: Byron Bay, Australia Member No.: 11,741 Region Association: None |
Thanks for all the replies and advice, I’m off the jack stands and back on the road.
It was a lot easier than I thought would be. The hardest part was making the paper gasket accurately! The only other problem was lining up the bolt holes in the flange to the bolts in the CV. After frigging around for about an hour trying to get one in I had a brain wave and put the jack under the trailing arm and pumped it till the driveshaft was level and bingo it was buttoned up in minutes. Thanks again. |
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