Clutch cable replacement, couple questions. Options

[JamesB2]

hey folks,

Let me start with the situation:

A while back I noticed some fraying in my clutch cable and instead of taking care of it then I thought, "it'll hold." It did hold but then that day came where the clutch pedal dropped to the floor and luckily I was driving in a 25 mph zone and stuck in second gear.

Now, I have searched and searched and came up with a general idea of how to replace the cable. At this point in time, I have the cable disconnected from the clutch pedal, took the pin out. I have read where people say tying a string to the cable allows you to snake the new cable through and avoid wrapping around the accelerator.

Now in one post I read to unscrew the end of the clutch cable at attaches to the clutch. Is it necessary to remove that end piece? I feel like using the hole would make tying a string to it more secure and easier.

Thanks in advance,
James

[injunmort]

disconnect the cable at both ends. remove clevis that attaches to pedal assembly. pull the cable from the firewall back. slide new cable in from the firewall. you can look through the aperture with a flashlight and mirror to double check the you are not fouled on the accelerator cable. push the cable all the forward in the sheath, pull the cable end out of the door with needle nose pliars and attach cable end to cable. attach cable to pedal. relace cable to transmission and adjust. done.

[steuspeed]

I didn't use a string to snake mine in. Just shove it in from the firewall. The hardest part was re-attaching at the clutch pedal. Flexibility and small finger help. It's harder if you have a console.

[JamesB2]

Thanks gents!

Got it attached to the pedal and just have to attach to the transmission now.

Thanks again!!

[JamesB2]

Any idea what the size of the bolts used to adjust the clutch are? Turns out whoever adjusted the clutch before had the wrong size.

[BeatNavy]

The bolts at the end of the cable (tranny side) used to adjust are M7 (11 mm diameter) I believe.

[JamesB2]

The bolts at the end of the cable (tranny side) used to adjust are M7 (11 mm diameter) I believe.

I believe you're right. I'll have to post a pic of the old broke cable when I'm done!

[porschetub]

Cut the cable down before fitting by 10-12mm @ the clevise end cause they are all seem to be too long....or at least mine was,have seen people add a spacer @ the gearbox end also.

[injunmort]

no offense, but don't cut anything. dial the clevis end down and tighten the gland nut, if it is too long and the transmission, a couple washers to take up the slack is perfectly acceptable. cutting either end of the cable is a bad idea even if you have the correct die to repair the threads.

[maf914]

When your cable broke, did you recover all of the fittings from the clutch pulley end? I am referring to the clevis, washers and nuts? I ask this because you need these for your new cable, not just the lock nuts.

Years ago my cable broke at a stop sign near home (luckily). After towing the car home and starting to replace the cable with a new spare I had, I realized I was missing a few pieces. I went back to the scene of the crime and found the cable end with clevis and lock nuts attached, which I transferred to the new cable.

[porschetub]

no offense, but don't cut anything. dial the clevis end down and tighten the gland nut, if it is too long and the transmission, a couple washers to take up the slack is perfectly acceptable. cutting either end of the cable is a bad idea even if you have the correct die to repair the threads.

I purchased this cable from GPR Cofle brand from memory ,I did as you mentioned and screwed the clevis on as far as I could and found the cable nowhere near central on the release fork @ the g/box end.
Screwed the clevis on further but it obviously wouldn't fit on the arm,removed the clevis and cut 10mm off after threading a nut on the inside of the cut (no need for a die ).
Put it all back to together and bingo only needed to tighten a small amount @ the gearbox to get correct pedal freeplay and plenty of room for future adjustment
All parts in the system new or inspected;
new clutch and unmachined -6 flywheel,
new release bearing guides and ball cup ,
no extra washers under release arm pivot,
rebuilt pedal assembly,
new cable roller and bush,
guide tube in tunnel still solid.
So after all that makes me wonder why it was too long??.
By the way no offence taken (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[injunmort]

i too am running the cofle cable, but i did have to stack about an in inch of washers on the trans end.

[Larmo63]

That's funny, when my cable snapped (I too saw the fraying and ignored it) on the way home from Cars n' Coffee, I looked back on the street while I was waiting for the flatbed tow, and found nothing.

Nothing. Literally, 5 minutes later.