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> Relay board
lsintampa
post Oct 24 2016, 07:26 PM
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Anyone know if someone rebuilds or has source for relay boards?

Have not run the car for months. Fuel pump seems to not be getting any power on ignition on.

Replaced relays, no change. Tomorrow I am going to check full pump itself.

This happened a while ago and changing relay fixed it. Not this time though, so I am thinking maybe the board went south???

Thanks.

Len
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cary
post Oct 24 2016, 07:42 PM
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disconnect the battery. then disconnect the leads to the relay and remove it. once in your hand flip it over and make your not pushing the connections thru the black material.
multi tasking, i'm on hold with frontier fios.
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Mikey914
post Oct 24 2016, 11:52 PM
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There was someone that was. It looked like they had a method to remove the old material and used a mild acid to clean up the remaining copper. Repairing any breaks with solder. Easy enough to re apply a bed of epoxy to protect it for another 30-40 years.

Anyone recall how the old material was removed?
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914Sixer
post Oct 25 2016, 06:25 AM
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2" Paint scraper and some elbow grease will get the big stuff. From there it is a matter of cleaning the grooves, be EXTRA careful not to damage strips. Lemon juice and salt solution will clean the copper.
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Mikey914
post Oct 25 2016, 07:09 AM
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Anybody know exactly what the material being removed is?
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cary
post Oct 25 2016, 08:22 AM
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Here's an old thread.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1380642

A Pelican thread with some replacement materail ideas.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1380642

Here's the only removal comment/info I could find.
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lsintampa
post Oct 25 2016, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the ideas.

I've not had time yet today to play, but plan to later (time permitting).

Aside from the relay board (this is just a theory on my part) - what else can I explore to figure out why the FP isn't starting on ignition on.

I'll be looking at the wiring, etc...

Just hope it's a quick fix.

Taking the board out seems like my first option - that pin thing sounds like it may have some merit.

Thanks,

Len
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malcolm2
post Oct 25 2016, 08:50 AM
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Carbs or FI?

There is a track layout somewhere.... Maybe it is Bowlsby's tech page or Pelican.

But you could pull the board and do continuity checks on each track before you start digging the "black stuff" out of the back.

I always have to ask the forum when I start troubleshooting my L-Jet, but IIRC the FP on mine runs for just a few seconds with the key ON. Then, the engine should be running, so it should be getting a signal from the FI system to stay on. If yours is not, then it could be the wonderful ignition switch.
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ClayPerrine
post Oct 25 2016, 09:07 AM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Oct 25 2016, 09:50 AM) *

Carbs or FI?

There is a track layout somewhere.... Maybe it is Bowlsby's tech page or Pelican.

But you could pull the board and do continuity checks on each track before you start digging the "black stuff" out of the back.

I always have to ask the forum when I start troubleshooting my L-Jet, but IIRC the FP on mine runs for just a few seconds with the key ON. Then, the engine should be running, so it should be getting a signal from the FI system to stay on. If yours is not, then it could be the wonderful ignition switch.



L-Jet does not run the pump before starting. The double relay activates the pump when the engine is cranking, and the air flow meter powers the pump when the engine is running.

The 2 second prime only applies to the D-Jet cars.
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lsintampa
post Oct 25 2016, 10:46 AM
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2.0 FI

During the rebuild, I did have the board out and, yes there is a trace map somewhere. Anyway, I did trace all connections like two years ago - it was fine then.

Anyway, problem resolved. I'm in Florida, so our driving season is reverse of folks that have winters. I rarely drive during the summer and this summer I dedicated to doing a lot of work on the 914.

Hence it sat most of the summer. It seems that the FP had gotten "sticky" from not being used. I used my 2nd best tool in my inventory (my rubber mallet) and whacked it a few times and it started to spin. Shortly after we're all well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Thanks everyone!

Len

PS - my favorite tool? That's my 5LB sledge. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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Tom_T
post Oct 25 2016, 10:47 AM
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Jeff Bowlsby rebuilds them, but check everything else before you jump to conclusions on the rebuild.

http://bowlsby.net/914/WiringHarnesses/

Even oxidation build-up on contacts can screw up the EFI workings, so clean & go thru everything first. When I lived 3 blocks from the beach, I hhad to clean contacts every 6 months or so due to the salty air.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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malcolm2
post Oct 25 2016, 11:19 AM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Oct 25 2016, 10:07 AM) *

QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Oct 25 2016, 09:50 AM) *


I always have to ask the forum when I start troubleshooting my L-Jet, but IIRC the FP on mine runs for just a few seconds with the key ON. Then, the engine should be running, so it should be getting a signal from the FI system to stay on. If yours is not, then it could be the wonderful ignition switch.



L-Jet does not run the pump before starting. The double relay activates the pump when the engine is cranking, and the air flow meter powers the pump when the engine is running.


See I told you I always have to ask. But I was partially right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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GregAmy
post Oct 25 2016, 04:12 PM
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QUOTE(Tom_T @ Oct 25 2016, 12:47 PM) *

Jeff Bowlsby rebuilds them..

I contacted him last month when I was troubleshooting a no-start problem (discussed here). He is no longer rebuilding these relay boards
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