How do you prep Restoration Design parts for paint? |
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How do you prep Restoration Design parts for paint? |
stevegm |
Nov 19 2016, 06:36 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,111 Joined: 14-July 14 From: North Carolina Member No.: 17,633 Region Association: South East States |
Anybody know how to prep Restoration Dedign parts for paint? I have some rocker covers I want to paint tomorrow. I think they are galvannealed. I am not sure if they need to be sanded.
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914_teener |
Nov 19 2016, 06:57 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,201 Joined: 31-August 08 From: So. Cal Member No.: 9,489 Region Association: Southern California |
Anybody know how to prep Restoration Dedign parts for paint? I have some rocker covers I want to paint tomorrow. I think they are galvannealed. I am not sure if they need to be sanded. Galvannealed steel is just that. Galvanized steel that is subjected to high pressure roll processing that etches the galvanizing so that it can be readily painted. They used to call if "PainLoc". No need to prime or sand it. If you sand it you are likely to take of the annealed galvanizing thus inhibiting the metal ability to inhibit it from rusting. So, no point in that. |
Mark Henry |
Nov 19 2016, 10:28 PM
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#3
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
You are supposed to be able to degrease and go, at most I'd hit it with a scotchbrite pad only.
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Rand |
Nov 19 2016, 10:40 PM
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#4
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
Galvanized? Are RD parts galvanized?
Whatever, just clean, prime, paint! It's steel, not kryptonite. |
Mark Henry |
Nov 19 2016, 11:10 PM
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#5
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Galvanized? Are RD parts galvanized? Whatever, just clean, prime, paint! It's steel, not kryptonite. It's galvannealed steel, not the old galvanized steel. It's the exact same stuff the local Toyota and Honda plants are using, the steel costs RD more but it's worth it. Old galvanized there is prep to weld and paint, galvannealed just go for it. None of the RD made panels are primed, they just sit bare in a warehouse till they are sold, they don't rust. Steve, how do you like those rockers? I had a set in my hands a few months ago. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
restore2seater |
Nov 20 2016, 12:06 AM
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#6
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Future 914 copilot. Group: Members Posts: 311 Joined: 30-October 04 From: Dunlap,IL Member No.: 3,037 Region Association: None |
OK, did a quick google search on galvannealed steel. Never heard of it. From a lttle of what I read it still uses zink as a coating.
So Mark when you say "galvannealed just go for it" isn't the zink still an issue when welding? |
jmitro |
Nov 20 2016, 12:41 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 713 Joined: 23-July 15 From: Oklahoma Member No.: 18,986 Region Association: None |
yes it is a problem to weld.
I've welded the RD parts without any prep and it welds poorly, just like welding over primer. It needs to be pure clean metal, so I media blasted mine for good welding penetration |
Mikey914 |
Nov 20 2016, 03:10 AM
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#8
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,677 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
Also make sure it's well ventilated when you weld.
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mgp4591 |
Nov 20 2016, 03:55 AM
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#9
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,379 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
yes it is a problem to weld. I've welded the RD parts without any prep and it welds poorly, just like welding over primer. It needs to be pure clean metal, so I media blasted mine for good welding penetration So take your sanding pad on your small grinder to take the surface prep off to get to the pure steel on your weld areas? Not too tuff for a good bite I'd say... |
doug_b_928 |
Nov 20 2016, 07:09 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 692 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada |
I'm guessing that it's still best practice to epoxy prime the whole piece, no? In Jeff Hail's thread he suggests to sand a converted surface with 220 and 320 so the epoxy will stick while not removing the conversion coating. Would the same technique work on the RD coating?
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Mark Henry |
Nov 20 2016, 08:10 AM
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#11
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Truthfully, the young lad has a whole bunch of RD panels here for his project, but we haven't welded or painted one as of yet.
One thing about RD is they not only make panels, they also have a high end restoration shop, so they have used everything that they sell. If you can wait till Monday send Pete a PM and he'll tell you all the best prep procedures. |
jmitro |
Nov 20 2016, 08:14 AM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 713 Joined: 23-July 15 From: Oklahoma Member No.: 18,986 Region Association: None |
So take your sanding pad on your small grinder to take the surface prep off to get to the pure steel on your weld areas? Not too tuff for a good bite I'd say... yea I did that as well. either will work but I have a sandblast cabinet which makes quick work of smaller pieces. Larger pieces like the floorboard I had to use a scuffing disc |
Garland |
Nov 20 2016, 10:33 AM
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#13
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Restoration Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 1,329 Joined: 8-January 04 From: ......Michigan...... Member No.: 1,535 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Fine Scotch-bright and surface cleaner for paint, light grind, and weld-thru primer for the welds. Worked fine for me.
Steve, try a spot on the back side, see what you think. |
bulitt |
Nov 20 2016, 08:47 PM
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#14
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Achtzylinder Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 2-October 11 Member No.: 13,632 Region Association: South East States |
Pretty cool R&D thread.
4th post from top pg 3 explains the metal Mark is talking aboot. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...45738&st=40 |
peteyd |
Nov 21 2016, 07:31 AM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 707 Joined: 27-March 08 From: Elora, Ontario, Canada Member No.: 8,858 Region Association: Canada |
Prepping for paint is not any different because of the galvanneal. Remove any oil or grease with mineral spirits, then sand and then epoxy prime.
Some people say you can paint without priming, our painter has got the best results with epoxy priming it first. When welding, yes make sure you are in a well ventilated room. Symptoms of galvanize poisoning can be similar to flu symptoms. The onset of symptoms typically begin shortly after you have been exposed to zinc oxide and may include a mild headache accompanied by nausea. If you have a more severe case of exposure, your symptoms will be consistent to those experienced when you have the flu. A moderate case of exposure will result in symptoms including chills, shaking, a slight fever, vomiting and cold sweats. Galvanize poisoning is often short-lived and your symptoms should begin to lessen within four hours of exposure. You should be completely symptom free within twenty four hours. If you experienced a stronger exposure, you may still be experiencing symptoms up to forty-eight hours later. It is recommended that once you have been exposed that you drink milk in order to quicken your recovery. The calcium in milk helps remove the zinc build-up from your body. Pete |
mb911 |
Nov 21 2016, 08:42 AM
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#16
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,871 Joined: 2-January 09 From: Burlington wi Member No.: 9,892 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I would also put a plug in for a small respirator such as the Miller welding product.. It fits under the welding good and is only about 25 dollars and you can get a bunch of different filters to go in there. Part number is lpr-100.. I have about 4 of them and 90 percent of my welding students use them as well..
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jd74914 |
Nov 21 2016, 09:39 AM
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#17
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,780 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
I would also put a plug in for a small respirator such as the Miller welding product.. It fits under the welding good and is only about 25 dollars and you can get a bunch of different filters to go in there. Part number is lpr-100.. I have about 4 of them and 90 percent of my welding students use them as well.. Thank you! Just picked one up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
restore2seater |
Nov 21 2016, 09:54 AM
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#18
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Future 914 copilot. Group: Members Posts: 311 Joined: 30-October 04 From: Dunlap,IL Member No.: 3,037 Region Association: None |
Pete,
Do you prep the parts you make before welding? I've googled how to weld galvanized metal. Most recommend grinding off the layer and some use an acid to remove . I've watched a couple of your videos and can't tell if you are doing any thing prior to welding. Thanks for all your effort in making these parts for us. With people like you and Mark (Mikey914) the 914 community can have confidence that what you manufacture will be 100% quality when we buy from you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) Pat |
jmitro |
Nov 21 2016, 11:11 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 713 Joined: 23-July 15 From: Oklahoma Member No.: 18,986 Region Association: None |
another question for Pete.....
does the coating differ depending on country of origin? IE parts made in Canada have a different coating than parts made in Europe? |
Mikey914 |
Nov 21 2016, 11:27 AM
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#20
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,677 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
It may have some variation, but I suspect that the source for the metal may be US, or all coming from overseas. As the number of steel manufactures are shrinking.
But a good question. |
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