Over-filling Oil, for track use |
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Over-filling Oil, for track use |
yarin |
May 9 2005, 10:46 AM
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#1
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
I checked the level in my '72 track car and noticed the level is about an inch over full. The car has a tuna can on it already. Is overfilling an acceptable solution to oiling problems on these motors? If so how high over max is too high?
Also... i'm pretty sure the oil smells like gas. This is my first carbed car... can this happen when the engine floods? Or does it mean the rings are bad? Thanks! |
redshift |
May 9 2005, 10:48 AM
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#2
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Bless the Hell out of you! Group: Members Posts: 10,926 Joined: 29-June 03 Member No.: 869 |
4 qts is good without a can..
Uhh... how old is your oil? Fuel fouled oil can mean overtly rich, and causes ring damage. M |
Mueller |
May 9 2005, 10:50 AM
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#3
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,150 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
for auto-x, 1/2 quart extra is often recommended for those with the "can", it won't hurt to have a tad bit too much.......
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hmeeder |
May 9 2005, 10:55 AM
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#4
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Dante's Sportscar Group: Members Posts: 352 Joined: 21-November 04 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 3,154 |
I have always overfilled for track use, as do others I know. Usually about 1/2 quart. I have a tuna can also but still would get pick-up starvation, mostly on left hand sweepers. Over-filling cured this problem, though now I find a lot of oil in my crankcase breather set up (I have a bugpack breather box with a breather filter. Oil will blow out of the breather filter onto the engine. I fixed that by wrapping the filter with a paper towel that I swap out every other session or so, once it becomes oil soaked. I call it "changing the baby's diaper")
Sounds a little ghetto, but it works for me! |
yarin |
May 9 2005, 01:11 PM
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#5
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'14-X'in FOOL Group: Members Posts: 988 Joined: 13-May 03 From: Guttenberg, NJ Member No.: 693 Region Association: North East States |
The oil looks fresh. I'm sure the motor is running rich. I need to drop in the other motor which is already tuned.
In that case i'll change the oil, overfill by 1/2 qt so i can have some fun this coming weekend without worrying too much. Speaking of oil... what is the factory oil weight suggested for >32F weather? What do most of you guys run for summer? I take it choosing the right oil weight is critical considering its the only liquid cooling these engines. |
dmenche914 |
May 9 2005, 01:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,212 Joined: 27-February 03 From: California Member No.: 366 |
Let your oil pressure determine the best wieght oil for your climate and driving conditions. There is no blanket answer. Variables include how tight your engine is, worn bearings and pumps will require a thicker oil to maintain oil pressure.
You want as a general rule, no less than 10 psi for every 1000 rpm at full operating temperature. (the 10 psi minimum at near idle, can be a bit less, so long as the pressure picks up to 10 psi per 1000 rpm at 2000 rpm or so) Idle pressure can sometimes go to 5 psi, but you still are ok at 3000 rpm at 30 psi (this is a minimum value) Also be sure your oil temp is not excessive, if you are overheating, thicker oil will not cure the main problem, even though oil pressure might be "restored' with thicker oil, you still do not to be running too hot. |
Dave_Darling |
May 10 2005, 06:40 PM
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#7
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,051 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
OEM spec for >32F is straight 30-weight. I don't think multi-weights were very good back when our motors were first built, so there is no multi-grade spec.
I run 20W50, myself. Quite a few other folks in my area do as well. --DD |
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