Help the newbie Options

[Redraptor]

I'm trying to separate my tranny from the engine, they are both out of the car, the tranny just wiggles around.. I had seen a thread on this earlier in the week except I cant seem to locate it now.

The starter is removed and so are the other three bolts. Am I missing something or just a solid application of elbow grease?

[ljubodraz]

From one noob to another... have you tried applying small amount of penetrating lube to mating joint and pounding on joint with rubber mallet. My guess is to break the bond between cases. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Redraptor]

From one noob to another... have you tried applying small amount of penetrating lube to mating joint and pounding on joint with rubber mallet. My guess is to break the bond between cases. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

That's my instinct, but there have been a few times so far in my quest to resurrect this beauty where there was a nut or connection the online instructions have missed or I misinterpreted due to my being unfamiliar.

[SirAndy]

4 bolts, should slide right out.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[Redraptor]

4 bolts, should slide right out.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

Elbow grease it is. Thanks guys.

[BillC]

Has the car been sitting for a while? It's possible the clutch disk might be stuck on the input shaft.

If it is stuck, here's an idea that might help:

1. Find a helper and some paint stirrer sticks (or similar thin, flat pieces of wood).
2. Pull on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch -- this will take quite a bit of force, but a gap should open between the trans and the engine.
3. While pulling on the fork, have your helper put the paint stirrers into the gap.

Then, when you release the tension on the fork, the force from the pressure plate should cause the clutch disk to slide a little on the input shaft, breaking it free. After that, the trans should slide out. If not, repeat steps 2 & 3.

To make it easier to pull the clutch fork, you can use two screwdrivers, a long one and a shorter one. Put the shorter one in the slot where the posts of the cable block go, and then use the long screwdriver to wedge in the "hole" in the end of the clutch fork and the short screwdriver.

[Redraptor]

Has the car been sitting for a while? It's possible the clutch disk might be stuck on the input shaft.

If it is stuck, here's an idea that might help:

1. Find a helper and some paint stirrer sticks (or similar thin, flat pieces of wood).
2. Pull on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch -- this will take quite a bit of force, but a gap should open between the trans and the engine.
3. While pulling on the fork, have your helper put the paint stirrers into the gap.

Then, when you release the tension on the fork, the force from the pressure plate should cause the clutch disk to slide a little on the input shaft, breaking it free. After that, the trans should slide out. If not, repeat steps 2 & 3.

To make it easier to pull the clutch fork, you can use two screwdrivers, a long one and a shorter one. Put the shorter one in the slot where the posts of the cable block go, and then use the long screwdriver to wedge in the "hole" in the end of the clutch fork and the short screwdriver.

She has been sitting for 30 years. Can you quantify the amount of force needed? Are we talking a difficult bolt (i've had alot of thos recently) or one man doing the work of two after said man breaks the dolly the engine is resting on and now has to move it to a new dolly? (Did that too)

Which direction do I pull?

[BillC]

Has the car been sitting for a while? It's possible the clutch disk might be stuck on the input shaft.

If it is stuck, here's an idea that might help:

1. Find a helper and some paint stirrer sticks (or similar thin, flat pieces of wood).
2. Pull on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch -- this will take quite a bit of force, but a gap should open between the trans and the engine.
3. While pulling on the fork, have your helper put the paint stirrers into the gap.

Then, when you release the tension on the fork, the force from the pressure plate should cause the clutch disk to slide a little on the input shaft, breaking it free. After that, the trans should slide out. If not, repeat steps 2 & 3.

To make it easier to pull the clutch fork, you can use two screwdrivers, a long one and a shorter one. Put the shorter one in the slot where the posts of the cable block go, and then use the long screwdriver to wedge in the "hole" in the end of the clutch fork and the short screwdriver.

She has been sitting for 30 years. Can you quantify the amount of force needed? Are we talking a difficult bolt (i've had alot of thos recently) or one man doing the work of two after said man breaks the dolly the engine is resting on and now has to move it to a new dolly? (Did that too)

Which direction do I pull?

You're going to pull the end of the clutch fork backwards, toward the rear of the transmission (away from the engine). Basically, you are going to do what stepping on the clutch pedal normally does -- lever the throwout bearing forward to compress the pressure plate spring(s) and release the clutch disk.

It will take quite a bit of force, but if you use a long screwdriver or prybar, it shouldn't be too bad. It should not break your dolly, assuming the dolly is reasonably sturdy. You will need two people, because there's no way you're going to hold the clutch compressed and insert the strips by yourself.

[6freak]

[quote name='BillC' date='May 18 2017, 11:30 AM' post='2487232']

[*]Pull on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch --
that would be my first move good luck

[Redraptor]

I'm evaluating doing my own body repai. I have no experience but you never do until you try. Most of the threads I have found are a few years old. Anyone have any new advice on a welder? I'm looking at this one:



http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

[porschetub]

Sound like the clutch is rusted up,could you move the pedal ?
You will need to work around the perimeter of the belhousing with care ,evenly both sides with wedges or screwdrivers (blunt),take it easy not to damage the mating surfaces as you go,good luck.
Welders ? anything with a known name brand Miller ,Hobart and Lincoln as examples,avoid cheap ones as most of the time the they are well...cheap,if you are learning you need that advantage that a better welder offers,go for say a 130-150amp and you can use it for heavier work latter,also if you decide to sell it after you have finished you have a better resale with known brands.

[Redraptor]

Sound like the clutch is rusted up,could you move the pedal ?

When I checked the car out before buying I was able to shift it through the gears and I left it in neutral before pulling the engine. There was nothing externaly to indicate something wrong as I was disassembling everything. My money is on rust.

[Redraptor]

Sound like the clutch is rusted up,could you move the pedal ?

When I checked the car out before buying I was able to shift it through the gears and I left it in neutral before pulling the engine. There was nothing externaly to indicate something wrong as I was disassembling everything. My money is on rust.

Well...that was very anticlimatic. Application of a large screwdriver to the fork, a little back pressure, the tranny popped off. No muss, no fuss.

Thank you BillC

[BillC]

Well...that was very anticlimatic. Application of a large screwdriver to the fork, a little back pressure, the tranny popped off. No muss, no fuss.

Thank you BillC

Glad I could help. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

As for welders, I'm going to second porschetub's recommendation to get a name-brand machine. From what I've read online, the Eastwood machine is a very basic welder and kind of a mediocre one at that.

First place to look is craigslist, if you don't mind a used machine. Millers and Lincolns in good shape usually sell for around 75-80% of list, less if older or more worn. If you decide to buy new, the best prices I've seen are at store.cyberweld.com (no affiliation other than being a satisfied customer).

I took a mig welding class last year, and they had several different mig welders for us to use. The best one they had, from a total-newb, ease-of-use standpoint was a Millermatic 211. Very nice little welder and the auto-set function took care of all the guesswork. If I was in the market for a new welder, I would be looking at one of those. Only real drawback is the price. However, I learned a long time ago that it's cheaper in the long run to buy high-quality tools right from the beginning.

Also, you'll want to get an auto-darkening welding helmet. If you've never used a fixed lens before, you just won't fully appreciate how much nicer the auto-darkening lenses are in comparison. Look for one with a fast reaction time and adjustable darkness settings.

[BillC]

Oh, and one other thing: Regardless of what welder you get, get some scrap sheet metal and practice, practice, practice before you even think about actually welding on the car. Any knucklehead can operate a welder, making solid welds with good penetration and minimal buildup is almost an art and requires lots of practice.

[Redraptor]

Oh, and one other thing: Regardless of what welder you get, get some scrap sheet metal and practice, practice, practice before you even think about actually welding on the car. Any knucklehead can operate a welder, making solid welds with good penetration and minimal buildup is almost an art and requires lots of practice.

Mm
Fortunately(?) both doors are rotted out on the bottom so when I replace those I will have some practice metal from the actual car to screw up.

I know what you are saying about buying good tools. I am a practicer of yiu get what you pay for. I just dont know how frequently I would be using this one after I clean up the damage.