Handiest torque wrench for 914 Type 4? Options

[98101]

I want to remove and replace my Dellortos and the instructions are to torque to [EDITED] 13 inch-lbs. Most of you know what that feels like intuitively, but I'm a newbie and don't want to screw up my new toy.

I don't yet own a torque wrench -- don't think I've even used one before. I'm wondering which one I should buy for this and future 914 stuff. E.g. my valve covers are converted to bolt on.

[BillC]

I want to remove and replace my Dellortos and the instructions are to torque to 13 lbs.

Foot-pounds or inch-pounds? One is 12 times bigger than the other. It's important to keep them straight.

You're probably going to want to get at least 2 different torque wrenches, one that does 0 to 25 or 50 inch-pounds, and another that does at least 100 foot-pounds. There's a wide range of torque values you'll need to work on your car. I actually have 4 torque wrenches: a 0 to 25 in-lb 1/4" drive wrench, a 10 to 85 ft-lb 3/8" drive wrench, a 25 to 250 ft-lb 1/2" drive wrench and an electronic 3/4" drive "adapter" that goes up to 600 ft-lbs (gets used with a big breaker bar). They all get used.

I like the vernier click-type torque wrenches, because they make a hard-to-miss click when you've reached your setting. And, they measure torque in both directions. But, the drawback is you can't store them at a high setting -- you need to back them off to near the bottom of their range or they'll lose calibration.

There are also beam type wrenches that don't need to be backed-off when finished, but they (usually) only measure torque clockwise (tightening for right-hand threads). I've seen a few left-hand beam wrenches, but they tend to be quite expensive.

You'll probably have to get a dial or bar type for the in-lb wrench. I've never seen a decent click-type that goes that low.

Whatever you get, first make sure to get a decent brand, since you don't really know what a cheap-o horrible fright wrench will give you or how long it will stay in spec. Second, make sure you know how to use it -- for instance, when the wrench clicks, you're done, don't keep turning or you'll overtorque the nut/bolt.

[98101]

I want to remove and replace my Dellortos and the instructions are to torque to 13 lbs.

Foot-pounds or inch-pounds? One is 12 times bigger than the other. It's important to keep them straight.

Sorry -- inch-pounds. I just corrected the original post.

I guess at the moment I only need the lighter duty wrench, hopefully one that can get into tight spaces. I'd rather spend a little more than damage the car.

[barefoot]

The carb studs are M8 size & typical torque values form the shop manual are 14.5 Ft-lbs
For the carb mounting, you should be able to calibrate your arm close enough for these nuts.
If you're separating a case and building a short block or torquing heads on, yes a proper torque wrench is required.

[BillC]

I'd rather spend a little more than damage the car.

Good plan. The best money you can spend on your car is actually buying decent tools.

If you're lucky, a cheap tool will just break and you'll have to buy a replacement. More likely, though, is it will damage something painful and/or expensive as it breaks.

As the old mechanics say: "Buy once, cry once."

[98101]

The carb studs are M8 size & typical torque values form the shop manual are 14.5 Ft-lbs
For the carb mounting, you should be able to calibrate your arm close enough for these nuts.
If you're separating a case and building a short block or torquing heads on, yes a proper torque wrench is required.

My car came with these thick base gaskets that (according to this website) should be at 10-15 inch-lbs. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dellorto-DRLA...stle-gasket.htm

So I'm confused, and the previous owner also seems to have been confused. Here's how it looks as I got it from him:


Assuming the website is correct, any particular torque wrench you'd recommend for readjustment?

[MarkV]

Those gaskets are probably deformed from heat or age or both. I believe they are made out of neoprene which deforms from heat or age or both. Never used a torque wrench to install the nuts on a carburetor. an uncalibrated snug with a box end wrench is all it takes. If you suspect they are leaking you can spray some water or carb cleaner around the gasket with the engine running and listen for rpm change. Paper replacement gaskets are what I am running.

[iankarr]

I find this digital 3/8 wrench super handy. Range is 2-37 ft/lbs, which is in the sweet spot for a lot of stuff. Especially the sensitive ones like the oil strainer / sump bolt, rocker assembly nuts and exhaust manifold nuts. It makes progressively faster beeps till you reach your target. It displays in .10 increments

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUQI...=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a click-type 1/2" 20-150 (good for wheel lugs) and a 3/4 50-300 monster for big stuff like the axle nuts.

[thelogo]

If you cannot operate the torque wrench you do not even have

Then if it were me

I would just bite the bullet have it professionally
Tuned or worked on so you can enjoy and drive the car in the shortest turn around possible .


I enjoy driving, not wrenching

But to each his own . All i know is some guys on here take their car apart and go decades before its back on the road .

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[98101]

If you cannot operate the torque wrench you do not even have

Then if it were me

I would just bite the bullet have it professionally
Tuned or worked on so you can enjoy and drive the car in the shortest turn around possible .


I enjoy driving, not wrenching

But to each his own . All i know is some guys on here take their car apart and go decades before its back on the road .

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

Thanks -- yes I've arranged for professional help next week also. But working on it myself is a skill I've always wanted to have, and part of the reason for buying this project. Also it will be a few months before the weather here gets nice enough to drive.

My dad had a PhD, but didn't know how to drive a car, let alone fix it. I wish I'd learned earlier, and I'm jealous of most of the users here who seem to know how to drop an engine in the time it would take me to drive to a mechanic. The few things I have managed to fix/upgrade in the past were always more satisfying.

[mepstein]

I’m in the same boat as you but I’m learning. Try things, ask questions on the site, make mistakes, learn how to fix your mistakes. If my kids want to learn something, they YouTube it. I’m trying to take their lead when learning new things.

[MarkV]

I grew up with a dad that didn't know his way around a tool box too.

It's not rocket science...this place is a wealth of information if you can't figure something out.

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[thelogo]

All true guys and i respect your enthusiasm for wanting to
Turn the wrenchs


But a 914
Is not like working on a bug stock 1600 .
Thats something you learn on .

Not a big 4 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)


And with all do respect i say this


I was a big fan of this car and couldn't believe it was for sale

But ive faced the same facts about my own big 4 914 conversion
After the switch you need to drive the car afew 1000x miles
And have everything adjusted or tightened up and then the car will be good to go

Clutch cable's +throttle
And leaky fuel line in my case

Timing /distributor, carb sync etc
On yours

, good and minor problems to have

[Mueller]

I broke a flange on a T5 Tremec transmission using a brand new uncalibrated Craftsman torque wrench (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I should have known I was pushing it more than 20ft lbs, got kind of lazy I guess.

If you get one that is adjustable make sure to set to "off/zero" or below the adjustment range before putting it away.

[Valy]

The carb studs are M8 size & typical torque values form the shop manual are 14.5 Ft-lbs
For the carb mounting, you should be able to calibrate your arm close enough for these nuts.
If you're separating a case and building a short block or torquing heads on, yes a proper torque wrench is required.

My car came with these thick base gaskets that (according to this website) should be at 10-15 inch-lbs. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dellorto-DRLA...stle-gasket.htm

So I'm confused, and the previous owner also seems to have been confused. Here's how it looks as I got it from him:


Assuming the website is correct, any particular torque wrench you'd recommend for readjustment?

I calibrate my torque wrench myself at home using a vice and a scale. Very easy if you know a bit of physics.
BUT, the nuts in the picture are nylock and no torque wrench will torque them correctly. That is not a correct application for those nuts.

[Mark Henry]

I want to remove and replace my Dellortos and the instructions are to torque to [EDITED] 13 inch-lbs. Most of you know what that feels like intuitively, but I'm a newbie and don't want to screw up my new toy.

13 inch pounds would be like farting on a feather, so I'm sure it meant 13 foot pounds, which converted would be 156 inch pounds.
I made up a inch pound to foot pound conversion chart and hung it above my bench.

I have both an inch pound torque wrench that converted goes to 22 ft/lbs and a foot pound wrench to 25- 200 ft/lbs.
I strongly recommend you get both, to me the inch pound is important for doing the oil sump plate on a four.

BTW that dell carb gasket likely has it's own special torque value, just like 911 silicone valve cove gaskets, they can't take full spec torque because they squeeze out or deform.

[Olympic 914]

I use a Snap-on torque wrench that is 5-75 ft lbs It covers most of what has to be done on both the teener and the motorcycles.

Also have a 1/2 in wrench that is a Snap-on lower end model, it goes to 250 Ft lbs. great for the stub axle nuts and wheels and generally bigger things.

I think the 5-75 range is the most useful.

[VaccaRabite]

Its NOT inch pounds. Its foot pounds.
Don't reuse the neoprene gaskets. Use the phenolic (black plastic) spacers with paper gaskets attached. It is okay to use a VERY THIN coat of of gasket sealer. We are talking spreading it out so its translucent and tissue paper thin layer.

The phenolic spacers are used to insulate your carbs from the heat from the heads. Neoprene also does this but it is too squishy. Don't use it! Without some form isolation, your carbs will get hot enough to boil the gas in your carbs.

You can absolutely do all the work here yourself, just keep an open mind and try to keep your patience.

Assuming that your carbs are using the old style hex bar to link them together, using the correct phenolic spacers will probably mean that you need to get a longer hex bar, or adjust the mounting screws out about 1/2 inch. You will probably also have a lot of people telling you to ditch the hex bar and go to a pully system or the bellcrank system. Both are better, but you can get the hex bars to work acceptably.

Zach

[jesse7flying]

Not to intrude on the OP, but I have a set of Weber 40IDF carbs that I'm installing on a 1911 motor I procured. Where does one find the phenolic spacers Zach mentioned in the previous post? Thanks.
Jesse

[MarkV]

The phenolic spacers for the manifold to head is common like on injection. They have a thin gasket attached to both sides. Maybe someone makes a similar gasket for manifold to carb.

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