Body Measurements, How to Measure Accurately Options

[BeatNavy]

Every now and then someone posts a thread here about door and/or window gaps swearing their longs are solid and it's not a rust issue (I may post something similar here soon myself). Often it's recommended to check body dimensions (Body Dimensions), particularly measurement H and F. "F" is described as "Between roll bar and windshield flange" with target of 25 & 1/8 inches and seems pretty straightforward. "H" is a little more elusive for me. It seems there's too much room for error in the description to get a really useful result.

"H" is the measure of door width and is defined as "Measured between bulge for door contact switch and depression for door lock plate" with target of 40 and 29/32 in.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims/fig06.jpg)

Anybody have better pictures, or a better description, of where exactly to measure for "H" (where at the "bulge")? Any other dimensions that are critical for door gaps / longitude integrity?

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

The factory manual has very good pictures in it, especially if you get one of the original burgundy binder factory manuals. You can purchase a measuring stick from anyone who sells frame equipment. They work great

[BeatNavy]

The factory manual has very good pictures in it, especially if you get one of the original burgundy binder factory manuals. You can purchase a measuring stick from anyone who sells frame equipment. They work great

Thanks, George. I don't have the manual and can't seem to find what I need easily online.

Anyone have a picture to share?

[rick 918-S]

"Y" AND "H" first then "F" and "X" too easy for someone to bend the windshield frame and throw everything off.

[bbrock]

I feel your pain Rob. I went through the same dance with that dimension. I only have the scanned electronic version of the manual. I only see the same pic you have for dimension "h" but it is a little better quality so I've attached that page below. Still ambiguous though.



I think the endpoints are the area of the switch bump and screw hole shown below. That's what worked for me anyway but I came to it in a round about way. We'll see how those who actually have a clue did it, but this worked for me. First, I bought a metric tape measure because our moronic English system is (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif). I followed Cary's advice and installed an adjustable door brace that worked with the door on. Then I started with dimension F (roll bar to window flange) because it had more precise landmarks. Then I adjusted my my brace until that measurement matched spec. Next I checked the door gap and it was very close to spec so I felt confident the window frame wasn't bent and that was a good starting point. Then for H, I measured between the landmarks but, like you said, they aren't precise and you can gain or lose a mm or two depending on where you measure. Given that I had one measurement and door gaps in spec, and my H measurement was plus or minus a mm or so as I moved it around, I just chose spots where the measurement was dead on spec and marked them. That became my reference for H while working on longs and jambs. Right or wrong, gaps look good and everything seems to be lining up.



Sorry about the lock plate being in the way on this one.

[BeatNavy]

Thanks, Rick. Good info, Brent. This is very helpful. I'm going to go with your suggestions. I think I'm going to get Tangerine's adjustable braces for my project car, anyway - does that work with the door on?

All good info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[bbrock]

Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I hope you get more replies on this thread from the folks who have done this a half dozen times. I was really nervous about the possibility of the bent windshield frame on my heap, but went under the assumption that the door gap was the gold standard. I figured if other measurements were close to spec and the gaps looked good, things were okay. I'll probably find out later that my car crabs down the road like it has an inner ear infection. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[r_towle]

When you measure a rectangle on the diagonal, you can see if the windshield frame is down on one side.
Brace that,

I am not sur if Foley’s braces work with the doors closed, but that would be my only choice, the hinge area is too easy to move.

[cary]

I think Chris has both types.

I measure it with a precut 1" * 1/8 piece of bar stock. Flat end against the bump in the hinge post then the vertical sitting right on/in the radius of the striker pocket at the blue arrow.

[saigon71]

Rob:

I cut rigid steel brake line to the exact length I needed to eliminate measuring errors.

I made a set of adjustable body braces for my resto (leaving door on). They are out on loan now in New York. I'll check with him on the status of his project and let you know.

[BeatNavy]

Thanks everyone. That's all good info. Bob, and I greatly appreciate the offer on the braces. I had tried to make adjustable braces a few years ago, but they were crap when I was done due to lack of experience at the time as well as general lack of skill (that remains to this day, unfortunately). I contacted the good Mr. Foley, and I'm going to order the Tangerine two bar chassis brace kit. The current version welds the brace behind the speakers so the door can stay on during the process for continuous spot checking. He's a couple weeks back-ordered, but since this is primarily for my project car, it's all good.

On my driver I have questions about door/window gap, but I need to first measure based on the feedback here from Cary, Brent and everyone first before posting a new thread. Basically the gap was fine until I removed the door and "refurb'ed" the door and put new seals in. Could never get it to fit right after that, and I'm hoping it's the door and window, not the frame....

Thanks again for everyone's help.