help with aux oil cooler line needed, how tight does this fitting have to be? what to do if it starts to kink?? Options

[DRPHIL914]

alright so here is the back story- reinstalled the motorand transmission, didnt pay attenrtion to where the oil cooler was at the time, but it was on floor and not up under where it should be, so only choice was to disconnect the oil lines at the cooler, put the cooler back up where it was supposed to be mounted(it is now!) and then reconnect the lines - ok so that is where i am- and now i cant get the fitting tightened back down the last turn with out the line spinning with the fitting!!!! so it starts to twist and kink.
I have tried to hold it with my hand, and a pliers but i am afraid i will damage the line.
SO what do i do?? its attached at the other end on the adapter plate and not accessible with out a huge amount of extra work.
How much pressure is on this when the thermostat opens up and pushes oil thru the aux cooler? if this is not super tight ammi going to be blowing oil thru? and all over? its pretty tight, but should i loosen it up and put plumbers tape on the threads? if i hold the soft line with a pliers until the last quarter turn am i going to damage it?

I am truely at the pint with this that if its complicated i dont have time and its not going to get done - and if it leaks its not either - i need a solution - if this is high pressure i will have to get it tight, if not then i can probably get by-

Thanks

[mepstein]

No plumbers tape. Hold both sides with a wrench or adjustable and tighten snug. Not "all your might" tight and you don't need long wrenches with a lot of leverage - fittings are aluminum. It does have to be snug, not just finger tight.

[michael7810]

Can you unbolt the cooler to give yourself more room to work with 2 wrenches?

[IronHillRestorations]

The sealing surface is the flare inside the hose end, the threads only provide pressure on the two seating surfaces. It is OK to put some light oil or just a light dab of lithium grease on the threads so they don't seize or gall. I put some oil on the sealing surfaces too.

A tip Eric at BAT gave me is to get the fittings tight but loose enough where you can rotate the hose lightly to "lap" the sealing surfaces and continue slight rotation until tight.

You don't want a kink or excessive twist in the hose at all. I've seen stainless braid hose that had an internal flaw that caused the inner reinforcement to constrict and totally close the hose. It looked like a camera shutter when I cut it open.

[DRPHIL914]

ugh, dang. - so its more than finger tight , i cannot hod the hose tight enough at this point to keep it from turning, not with out compressing it, so either i quit here and see if it leaks or take it off re lube it and try again— if it opens up whe it reaches temp and get pressure and it leaks i wont know it until its probably really a mess and then i am i deep trouble.

i will not take it back out , room to crank is not the issue, and you cant do the other fitting because of the elbow, on turning will hit the bracket.

[theleschyouknow]

any way to 'pre-kink/pre-twist' the hose in the opposite direction before tightening so that the final turns rotate the line back straight/unkinked?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
cjl

[DRPHIL914]

any way to 'pre-kink/pre-twist' the hose in the opposite direction before tightening so that the final turns rotate the line back straight/unkinked?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
cjl

i got it! had to go back and look after Perry said what he did about the fitting and realized i could disconnect that one whic was the next connection down, then i was able to loosen the connector where the hose ties in, unkink it and make sure it was not damaged, then lined it up where it would not bind and then was able to just tighten it at the compression fitting - i learned a lot doing this- for one i disconnected the line at the wrong fitting initially, so that messed it up- keep learning stuff !