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zfisher6164 |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I was not looking forward to changing the targa seal but it really was not that bad.
Lots of silicone grease and a small plastic putty knife so you do not scratch paint. Removal is easy. For the install I put a lot of the silicone grease in the right door channel and slid one side all the way down then pushed the outside channel in with the putty knife. The top curve of the door seal takes the most work. The top part you extend across the top and hit it in with your palm so the metal part grabs the metal flange of the window. Repeat on the other window side. It is greasy but easy to clean and the new seal is much tighter on the top and looks better ![]() |
zfisher6164 |
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#2
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I was not looking forward to changing the targa seal but it really was not that bad. Lots of silicone grease and a small plastic putty knife so you do not scratch paint. Removal is easy. For the install I put a lot of the silicone grease in the right door channel and slid one side all the way down then pushed the outside channel in with the putty knife. The top curve of the door seal takes the most work. The top part you extend across the top and hit it in with your palm so the metal part grabs the metal flange of the window. Repeat on the other window side. It is greasy but easy to clean and the new seal is much tighter on the top and looks better Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
zfisher6164 |
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#3
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I was not looking forward to changing the targa seal but it really was not that bad. Lots of silicone grease and a small plastic putty knife so you do not scratch paint. Removal is easy. For the install I put a lot of the silicone grease in the right door channel and slid one side all the way down then pushed the outside channel in with the putty knife. The top curve of the door seal takes the most work. The top part you extend across the top and hit it in with your palm so the metal part grabs the metal flange of the window. Repeat on the other window side. It is greasy but easy to clean and the new seal is much tighter on the top and looks better Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
zfisher6164 |
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#4
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
finished
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zfisher6164 |
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#5
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I was not looking forward to changing the targa seal but it really was not that bad. Lots of silicone grease and a small plastic putty knife so you do not scratch paint. Removal is easy. For the install I put a lot of the silicone grease in the right door channel and slid one side all the way down then pushed the outside channel in with the putty knife. The top curve of the door seal takes the most work. The top part you extend across the top and hit it in with your palm so the metal part grabs the metal flange of the window. Repeat on the other window side. It is greasy but easy to clean and the new seal is much tighter on the top and looks better Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
914pipe |
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#6
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Say......TEEEEEEEN!!!!! ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 346 Joined: 31-July 04 From: Puerto Rico, now NC Member No.: 2,422 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I was just doing this right now and I'm having problem to seat the top part on the metal gasket you mentioned.... Are you using the one from 914rubber?
Did you also used silicone grease while installing the top section? Every time that it looks like it is in place it just fall back.... Was even considering glue... Here are some pics on mine.... ![]() ![]() |
Mikey914 |
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#7
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The rubber man ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12,772 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Possible you have an earlier version we did. The new ones we have coextruded the clip into the rubber so our tolerances are tight and consistent. The old ones you can pinch the clip by applying pressure to close some of the gap. The problem was that the manufacturing tolerance was +/- .060, but again they can be manipulated open or closed easily.
Also 3M weather-strip adhesive can be used and easily removed later as it will stay gummy if you go that route. Happy to trade for a new one if you want to exchange. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Mark |
zfisher6164 |
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#8
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I was just doing this right now and I'm having problem to seat the top part on the metal gasket you mentioned.... Are you using the one from 914rubber? Did you also used silicone grease while installing the top section? Every time that it looks like it is in place it just fall back.... Was even considering glue... Here are some pics on mine.... I got mine from auto atlanta amd it had metal clios in the rubber that must be pushed on the metal, I hit it with the palm of my hand |
JamesM |
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#9
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,097 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() |
Well that explains why I have never been able to get the top portion of mine to stay on! Thought it was just me.
Possible you have an earlier version we did. The new ones we have coextruded the clip into the rubber so our tolerances are tight and consistent. The old ones you can pinch the clip by applying pressure to close some of the gap. The problem was that the manufacturing tolerance was +/- .060, but again they can be manipulated open or closed easily. Also 3M weather-strip adhesive can be used and easily removed later as it will stay gummy if you go that route. Happy to trade for a new one if you want to exchange. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Mark |
zfisher6164 |
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#10
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
the top seal should have metal in the rubber deal to grab the metal of the windshield. Not sure how the seal would stay on without the metal clips to grab. maybe they used glue in the earlier models
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914pipe |
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#11
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Say......TEEEEEEEN!!!!! ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 346 Joined: 31-July 04 From: Puerto Rico, now NC Member No.: 2,422 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Possible you have an earlier version we did. The new ones we have coextruded the clip into the rubber so our tolerances are tight and consistent. The old ones you can pinch the clip by applying pressure to close some of the gap. The problem was that the manufacturing tolerance was +/- .060, but again they can be manipulated open or closed easily. Also 3M weather-strip adhesive can be used and easily removed later as it will stay gummy if you go that route. Happy to trade for a new one if you want to exchange. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Mark Thanks for the info! I removed the metal clip and tested and fit fine, so I'm going with the 3M weather-strip adhesive route. Thanks again! |
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