Ignition Problem - cranks, but won't start...? Options

[CoronaMike]

Hi all,

I feel like I've tried everything, so I'm appealing to to the sage wisdom of the board.

ok - 74 1.8 Ljet. Was running - albeit started getting a little rough - so I thought maybe the timing was off, or needed new points - etc. Tune up stuff.

Had a really weak spark coming off #s 1&2.

I got a new: Coil, Wires, Cap, Rotor, points, and condenser (which i noticed was hooked to the + side of the coil.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) which I thought was kinda weird it had been running fine at all.

Anyway - when i put it all back together - i made sure that:

Notch on fan was at TDC when cylinder 1 valves were all the way in.

Dizzy - and rotor (pointing at notch) are in the right spot (if not close enough).

Points gaped at .016 (at least until I can get running to put the dwell meter on it)

I DO have 12 volts at the coil.

But - it will start. Not even a stumble.. nothing.


Ideas?

Thanks!! - mike

[Superhawk996]

What you don't mention is whether or not you have strong spark now after all your changes.

Fuel
Compression
Ignition (at the right moment)

One of the three is missing

You can check each of the spark plugs to observe if you now have a hot spark. Then double check whether you have the wires routed to the cap in the proper firing order.

Will it run or at least cough on starting fluid? That will rule out fuel.

If the other two don't get a cough or two, have you run a compression test?

[BillC]

Doesn't turn over? As in, you turn the key and nothing happens at the engine? Or, it won't start when cranking?

If it doesn't turn over, there's something wrong with your starter or starter wiring/circuit. First check, did you reconnect the battery? Then, check the wiring on the starter, maybe something got knocked off in the process. Last thing would be to check your ignition switch, they have been known to go bad suddenly.

If it won't start when cranking, then we've at least narrowed things down a bit.

[CoronaMike]

Doesn't turn over? As in, you turn the key and nothing happens at the engine? Or, it won't start when cranking?

If it doesn't turn over, there's something wrong with your starter or starter wiring/circuit. First check, did you reconnect the battery? Then, check the wiring on the starter, maybe something got knocked off in the process. Last thing would be to check your ignition switch, they have been known to go bad suddenly.

If it won't start when cranking, then we've at least narrowed things down a bit.

Ok - (sorry) it does crank - but it doesn't start.

[CoronaMike]

What you don't mention is whether or not you have strong spark now after all your changes.

Fuel
Compression
Ignition (at the right moment)

One of the three is missing

You can check each of the spark plugs to observe if you now have a hot spark. Then double check whether you have the wires routed to the cap in the proper firing order.

Will it run or at least cough on starting fluid? That will rule out fuel.

If the other two don't get a cough or two, have you run a compression test?

How could I check to see if I have a spark if it won't start? The way I checked the spark before was pulling the wire off the distributor while it was running. Would I have to have someone else turn the key and check the spark while it's cranking?

The wires are in the right order. I'm sure it's not fuel, since it started fine every time until i started messing with the wires/distributor, etc.

It seems like the timing is just way off somehow - but - the valves on #1 are closed at TDC.

Compression should be fine - the engine was rebuilt < 5k miles ago.

[IronHillRestorations]

Right off the top of my head, I'd say check the distributor cap and make sure the center contact is there. Years ago I got a bad cap and the spring loaded center contact came out.

I'd probably check the coil with a meter just to make sure it passes the resistance test

[mgphoto]

Check that the distributor, it could be installed 180 degrees off.

[Shivers]

Bring it to TDC on # 1 and see what wire in the cap the rotor would be pointing at. If at 1 it should fire if it has everything else.

[TheCabinetmaker]

"Notch on fan was at TDC when cylinder 1 valves were all the way in."
Does this mean open or closed? Were you looking at the rocker arms?

[Superhawk996]

How could I check to see if I have a spark if it won't start? The way I checked the spark before was pulling the wire off the distributor while it was running. Would I have to have someone else turn the key and check the spark while it's cranking?

The wires are in the right order. I'm sure it's not fuel, since it started fine every time until i started messing with the wires/distributor, etc.

Yes, crank engine while checking spark. You may need a helper or alternatively you can buy a starter bypass switch. If you have no spark it leads to other possible root causes (bad cap, bad coil, defective coil wire, shorted points, etc.). If you have a good spark at all 4 plugs, then you can double check wire routing and timing.

https://www.autozone.com/alarm-and-security...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds

On the second part -- assuming there is fuel, is a bad idea. You could have knocked FI ground wires loose while changing wires, etc. If it won't cough on starter fluid then you know for sure you have an ignition problem.

Trouble shooting is as much a excercise of verifying what it IS NOT the problem in a methodical manner as it is of trying to find what the problem IS.