Auto paint question, Bodywork |
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Auto paint question, Bodywork |
r_towle |
Mar 15 2021, 08:37 PM
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#1
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Bare metal flares, the rest of the body is painted
So the question is for bare metal. Order options 1) epoxy primer, bondo, high fill primer, sealer, paint, clear OR 2) bondo, high fill primer, sealer, paint, clear What would you suggest? And, given my lack of a paint booth, I will have a paint shop do whatever stage I need to ensure no bugs land on the paint. I will paint and bodywork up till it must be a clean room process. I need some advice on the steps and order. Rich |
Literati914 |
Mar 15 2021, 08:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,475 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I like option #1, either way would probably be fine .. but epoxy gives piece of mind. Use the epoxy primer over the (worked down) welds too, then filler..but use a short strand fiberglass filler like "kitty Hair" (bondo has the same product too - "bondo glass" I think it's called). These products maintain a certain amount of flex that's not in regular filler (making it better for use over welds). Work that down, then put epoxy on top of it too. Follow with high build (if you feel like you need it - it's more of an all over car item imho). Sealer, paint & clear if you're using one (I prefer single stage on vintage cars, you can add some clear to them in the final coats, as an option). Good luck!
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PanelBilly |
Mar 15 2021, 09:28 PM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,817 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
My vote is for number 1 also. That’s what I did
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roblav1 |
Mar 15 2021, 09:58 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 528 Joined: 18-September 12 From: KY Member No.: 14,943 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
My recent method: grind welds, etch, dp90lf epoxy primer, aeropoxy mixed with silica, sand, more dp90lf epoxy primer, filler, sand, primer, sand, primer, sand, color.
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914 RZ-1 |
Mar 15 2021, 10:06 PM
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#5
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Porsche Padawan Group: Members Posts: 683 Joined: 17-December 14 From: Santa Clarita, CA Member No.: 18,230 Region Association: Southern California |
When I painted my car myself, I sanded the old paint with 400 grit, used Bondo where needed, sanded again, then used polyester primer/surfacer, then single stage paint.
I made a paint booth that fit in my garage. My thread on it is here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...82&hl=paint |
Bucci |
Mar 15 2021, 10:56 PM
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#6
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Bucci Group: Members Posts: 106 Joined: 11-August 08 From: Carlsbad,Ca Member No.: 9,407 Region Association: Southern California |
I like Option 2 best.
Confirm with your paint manufacturer as they have specifications for their primers and sealers. 1. Metal bodywork and dress welds. Don’t remove too much of the weld between the flare and the body sheet metal. 2. Sand all sheet metal thoroughly looking for imperfections, hammer and dolly high and low spots. Heat shrink if necessary and repeat process. 3. All body panels should be fitted at this time and check operation/ gaps. 4. Remove dust, grease, silicone, waxes. Use “Comet abrasive powder” or your favorite abrasive. Scotch-Brite pad the sheet metal thoroughly like your scrubbing a pot. 5. Rinse on a sunny day and dry thoroughly with gas heater and air nozzle. 6. Apply acid etch liquid cleaner and working in with Scotch-bright pads, noting not to embed the plastic pad into the metal surface. 7. Apply body filler over bare rough surface, metal worked areas should have some tooth to hold the filler. 8. Remove parting dust after all body filler work is complete. It maybe necessary to wash the car again. Dry thoroughly. 9. Apply manufacture recommended etch primer. Sand as necessary to be ready for the next coat of manufacture recommended sealer primer. 10. It will take several days or several weeks for sealer primer to dry allowing it to shrink onto the metal surface, rolling the car out into the sun for paint curing. 11. This is where you can help eliminate the sanding scratches. Inevitably primer paint bridges over small scratches and then sucks down during the curing process. 12. Some of the painters I’ve spoken to like to leave the sealer primer unopened or not sanded durning curing. 13. Right before they’re ready to paint they will use a guide coat over the whole body and will sand right before the final coat of paint is applied this keeps the surface clean and free of debris getting stuck on to the freshly sanded surface. Some of these procedures and operations will vary from person to person. I’ve only managed body shops and painted small parts. It takes an artist and somebody special to want to paint cars correctly. |
rick 918-S |
Mar 16 2021, 02:00 AM
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#7
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,493 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Are you working on your car? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Cairo94507 |
Mar 16 2021, 08:05 AM
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#8
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Michael Group: Members Posts: 9,826 Joined: 1-November 08 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 9,712 Region Association: Northern California |
I think option 1 is the way to go. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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rmital |
Mar 16 2021, 08:10 AM
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#9
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Northeast optimist Group: Members Posts: 1,947 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Park Ridge, NJ Member No.: 5,268 |
Are you working on your car? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) seriously...… (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif) |
slowrodent |
Mar 16 2021, 08:12 AM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 120 Joined: 29-February 20 From: Tucson/Oro Valley Member No.: 23,981 Region Association: Southwest Region |
My only concern with option 1 is that the epoxy primer be sanded if it is allowed to completely cure prior to filler application. There's generally a recommended window where the filler can be applied without sanding, but after full cure, it probably should be sanded prior to ANYTHING being applied on top.
Option 1, with this stipulation, has been my approach thus far. |
roblav1 |
Mar 16 2021, 12:34 PM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 528 Joined: 18-September 12 From: KY Member No.: 14,943 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
DP40LF is 24 hours.
My only concern with option 1 is that the epoxy primer be sanded if it is allowed to completely cure prior to filler application. There's generally a recommended window where the filler can be applied without sanding, but after full cure, it probably should be sanded prior to ANYTHING being applied on top. Option 1, with this stipulation, has been my approach thus far. |
mgphoto |
Mar 16 2021, 02:30 PM
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#12
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"If there is a mistake it will find me" Group: Members Posts: 1,339 Joined: 1-April 09 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 10,225 Region Association: Southern California |
Option 1, Southern Polyurethane epoxy primer, tough as nails, they even have live tech support download their application pdf also half the price of Deltron.
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r_towle |
Mar 16 2021, 06:16 PM
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#13
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Are you working on your car? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) I’m considering it, yes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
bbrock |
Mar 16 2021, 06:24 PM
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#14
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
DP40LF is 24 hours. My only concern with option 1 is that the epoxy primer be sanded if it is allowed to completely cure prior to filler application. There's generally a recommended window where the filler can be applied without sanding, but after full cure, it probably should be sanded prior to ANYTHING being applied on top. Option 1, with this stipulation, has been my approach thus far. The DPLF spec sheet says up to 1 week without sanding. That is also the primer I used. I also went with, and vote for, option #1. I had to repair too much metal where paint had failed over body filler and trapped moisture against the steel. I think either option is fine until the paint fails, but am operating with believe that a continuous coat of epoxy next to the metal will provide that last line of defense. |
mepstein |
Mar 16 2021, 07:09 PM
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#15
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,315 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
The dtm fillers are different than the old bondo products.
One of our guys had a rule of thumb. Etch primer over old metal and epoxy over new metal. |
bkrantz |
Mar 16 2021, 08:08 PM
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#16
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,803 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
My paint shop owner (who has been doing this for decades) was absolute: bondo on bare metal, then priming.
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