Pedal Box Differences, Thought They All Were the Same, But Maybe Not Options

[motorvated]

I was in the process of swapping out the pedal box that was in my '72 with a spare used pedal box I bought locally. When comparing the two boxes, it appears that the box from my car has a longer bushing tube for the accelerator cable mounting plate than the replacement I have sourced. Since the shaft on the plate is way too long for the shorter bushing tube on the replacement box, and the replacement box did not come with the accelerator cable mounting plate, I had to fabricate a short tube to make up for the excess length of the shaft. The bronze bushings fit the diameter of the bushing tube, so using the spacer should work. Does anyone know if there were changes made to this portion of the 914 pedal box during the production years, or was there only one style of 914 pedal box and my replacement might be from a 911 or 912, or some other model. The other portions of the two boxes appear to be identical, except the box from my car does not have the return spring on the right side of the main shaft and the replacement does. Pictures below.

[bdstone914]

That tube lenght is the same on all 914, 911, 912 from 1965-1987.
911 and 912 have a straight clutch pedal. The oval holes on earky sets were shorter. After 74 they have a non used hole in the side where 911's had a pin for a side spring. That is based on rebuilding a couple hundered pedal sets.

The set on the left is missing the bolts that should be welded to the housing for the master cylinder. The accelerator crank is bent. Heat it red hot and straighten it. The shaft is brazed to the crank and breaks easily.

[motorvated]

That tube lenght is the same on all 914, 911, 912 from 1965-1987.
911 and 912 have a straight clutch pedal. The oval holes on earky sets were shorter. After 74 they have a non used hole in the side where 911's had a pin for a side spring. That is based on rebuilding a couple hundered pedal sets.

The set on the left is missing the bolts that should be welded to the housing for the master cylinder. The accelerator crank is bent. Heat it red hot and straighten it. The shaft is brazed to the crank and breaks easily.

So the box with the missing M/C bolts has longer holes and the extra unused hole in the left side, so it must be after '74. Apparently the shorter bushing tube for the accelerator crank shaft is not correct and someone has cut it short for some unknown reason. When I go to straighten the accelerator crank, do I just line it up so that it is parallel to the housing and not splayed out to the right like it is currently. If I get it red hot to bend it back, will the brazing soften/melt and compromise the shaft position?

The earlier box on the left has no return spring on the right side of the main shaft and someone previously had driven a smaller roll pin into the hole on the clutch arm. The pin came out easily enough, but even after repeated heating and PB Blaster, and even drilling the hole a little larger but still not to the proper diameter of a standard roll pin, I cannot get the clutch arm off of the shaft. Held it in a vice and tried hammering it back and forth for quite some time, but it won't budge. I am thinking of cutting it off and replacing it with another. Is that reasonable, and do you know where I can source both pieces of the clutch arm and the pedal. I also will need a return spring for the right side of the main shaft, and an accelerator crank or two, two if I screw up the one I have when trying to bend it back into the proper position.

Probably should have just bit the bullet and bought a restored box from you in the first place!