Clutch Advice, Reuse or Replace? Options

[mzapisek]

I have very low mile original 1.7 (30K). I recently installed a 4 post lift and have begun doing all the 50 year service updates (SS fuel lines, shift bushings, engine refresh etc.). I am certainly a novice mechanic at best. The information on this board most definitely helps close the knowledge gap and encourages me to self perform tasks I would otherwise be unsure of. While inspecting the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate they appear to be in very good condition (no grooves or obvious signs of wear) just some slight discoloration.

Should I reuse or replace? I did purchase a new rear main seal but I do not see any signs of a leak. From other info I have read on this board the newer seals are/maybe somewhat substandard. While I welcome the opportunity to fix everything I can while the engine is out and on the stand don’t want to perform unnecessary work or look for problems that don’t exist.

Would appreciate some advice.

Thanks.

[FL000]

It’s a lot of work to get to where you are at. Cheap insurance to replace the pressure plate, disk, and throw out bearing while you are there. My thoughts.

[Lockwodo]

I have very low mile original 1.7 (30K). I recently installed a 4 post lift and have begun doing all the 50 year service updates (SS fuel lines, shift bushings, engine refresh etc.). I am certainly a novice mechanic at best. The information on this board most definitely helps close the knowledge gap and encourages me to self perform tasks I would otherwise be unsure of. While inspecting the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate they appear to be in very good condition (no grooves or obvious signs of wear) just some slight discoloration.

Should I reuse or replace? I did purchase a new rear main seal but I do not see any signs of a leak. From other info I have read on this board the newer seals are/maybe somewhat substandard. While I welcome the opportunity to fix everything I can while the engine is out and on the stand don’t want to perform unnecessary work or look for problems that don’t exist.

Would appreciate some advice.

Thanks.

Tech Tips 700 (Dr. 914) as a nice writeup on clutch renewal and what should be done.

[930cabman]

Was it working properly prior to the teardown? If so, I would leave well enough alone

[Ansbacher]

You will kick yourself later on if you don't replace everything questionable while you have things apart.

Ansbacher

[theer]

Clutch job on a 914 is easier than on pretty much any other car… But it’s still a pretty big job.

I’m with the others… If it was my car, I would change out clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Maybe add the pilot bearing, too.

[lesorubcheek]

For the clutch disc, the Clymer manual recommends replacement if the thickness of the lining is less than 9mm (0.36"). Haynes recommends measuring the rivet depth, and if less than 0.6mm (0.025") then it's time to replace. Otherwise, if no obvious cracks or the lining being oil soaked, then it's OK to reuse. I'd imagine the factory manual has it's recommendations also.
For the pressure plate, look for signs of overheating, cracks, gouges. Haynes recommends using a straight edge on the face to look for visible warping. If the fingers (held on by rivets) are tight and not badly worn where the release bearing contacts, and everything else checks out OK, it should be fine to reuse.
Almost everyone agrees to change the pilot bearing since it is fairly inexpensive and if there's any doubt about the release bearing, change it also. Look at those plastic insulating blocks on the release bearing too and replace if they look like there's any wear or cracks. Oh, and make sure to look at the flywheel face for gouges and uneven wear.
I usually follow the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" philosophy. It's really up to you. Quick search looks like around 200-300 bucks for a new pressure plate and disc. If that seems like peanuts too you, then sure why not replace it while you're in there. If you feel like that's money that could better be spent elsewhere, the parts look good and you don't mind jumping back in maybe in 10, 20, 30 thousand miles (depends on how hard you drive it) then personally I see no reason the parts can't be reused.

[914Sixer]

Since it is out do it right. Replace everything. Make sure you get the little stuff. Replace pivot ball if needed. Plastic ball cup on fork along with the spacers on release bearing, Clean up flywheel. Replace rear seal and flywheel O ring. Basic kit $290 Rockauto KF19101

[mzapisek]

Appreciate all the advice. I think I will keep the flywheel and change everything else out as suggested. This place is such a good resource.

[Montreal914]

Check this bushing too! Good luck with your project! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[mgphoto]

Do the fingernail test, on the metal surfaces, flywheel and pressure plate, run your fingernail the radius of the surfaces, outer edge to the center. Does your fingernail catch on any ridges? Very smooth ridges which are not deep might be ok but sharp and deep, resurface the flywheel and replace the pressure plate. I have replace a clutch in my car during super bowl halftime, using a floor jack. Today I have a lift but I don’t have to rush anymore.

[windforfun]

Why should you need a new clutch with only 30K miles on the car?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[bbrock]

Why should you need a new clutch with on 30K miles on the car?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

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[Mikey914]

Welcome to "While I was there" this is the all too familiar rabbit hole we go down.

If you can get good quality parts at $270, probably not worth the effort to do again if it becomes an issue.

You can always do the CSOB way and replace the disk and sand the flywheel and pressure plate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif). The cost is $20ish. If it truly is a 30k car it should suffice.

BTW I have the cup sockets if you need them.
-Mark

[TMM914]

I am in for replacing the complete clutch setup.We have to remember that although it is low miles it is still 50 ish years old. If it’s out….replace it.

[bbrock]

Unless it rusts, I don't see how a clutch would go bad just because of age. I would give all the parts a thorough inspection as others have described. If anything is suspect or anywhere near the wear limit, replace the whole kit. If not, replace the RMS and flywheel O-ring and reinstall the rest. There's a good chance that clutch has another 30K of life left on it under normal street use. It's all relative, but $300 is not cheap on my salary and replacing a clutch is just not that much work - especially with access to a lift. I've never had a clutch go out without giving me plenty of warning it was on its way first.

[mzapisek]

My mindset is whatever I do will be the last time I would touch it so might as well eliminate any work down the line. Car is not driven a lot so should be the last time during my ownership.

[Superhawk996]

FWIW that is not an original 4 spring OEM clutch disk.

Measure clutch disk per Haynes for lining thickness - if it meets spec it will last quite a while. Especially if the car isn’t driven much.

[Front yard mechanic]

I say reuse it. We all need more exercise (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

[Superhawk996]

For the clutch disc, the Clymer manual recommends replacement if the thickness of the lining is less than 9mm (0.36"). Haynes recommends measuring the rivet depth, and if less than 0.6mm (0.025") then it's time to replace. Otherwise, if no obvious cracks or the lining being oil soaked, then it's OK to reuse. I'd imagine the factory manual has it's recommendations also.

Strangely I can’t seem to find a spec in disc thickness in the 914 factory manual (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)