Best way to remove paint?, to repaint car. Options

[olav]

I don't want to remove the interior or engine but I'll remove everything else like bumper, headlights and that sort of stuff.

What are my options?

[redshift]

Chemical paste stripper... you can strip a panel, or just a sq. foot at a time, and no metal damage. Easy cleanup!

Scrapers, and steelwool, big trash can.


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[LvSteveH]

I just got done doing a bunch of media blasting, and I'm going to second the chemical approach. Blasting is unbelievably messy, for both the operator and the car. I forgot to wear earplugs, and after a few minutes I didn't need them, my ears were impacted. I've been pretty dirty before, but nothing topped this. My wife didn't want to let me in the house.

Between chemical strippers and a DA sander, it makes quick work and a nice finish on exterior panels.

[olav]

Ok, thanks!!! Chemical it is...

[zymurgist]

Make sure you clean all the chemical residue out of crevices, etc. when you're done, or you could end up with bubbles where the new paint doesn't stick. Not trying to scare you, just be meticulous in your work. (Which is good advice for paint prep in any case, because a good finish requires good prep work.)

[redshift]

Yes! I like to work on edges, then do the rest.

Start out by stripping as instructed on the package, use a wire brush for small features, carefully. You will then need some #000 steel wool, a couple different scrub brushes, much hot soapy water, some towels, a big trashcan, the Sun, and a sprayable bottle of ospho, and a sealing primer.

(rattle can based on same paint you will use is 'ok')


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[jonwatts]

Olav,

What's your objective here?

Changing the color of a car?

Restoring a color change car?

Those are probably the only two reasons for removing paint. Otherwise the factory paint, 9 times out of 10, is the best primer for a new paint job. Chemical stripper is fine if you're going down to metal, but not a good choice if you're just freshening up a factory paint job. The better approach is to rough it up with a DA sander and re-shoot it.

At least I think that was the best advice 10 years ago when I last got to hang out at a paint shop. I haven't heard anything to contradict it despite all the new paint processes that have been developed since then.

Hopefully Rick can chime in here since he's a real expert and I'm just blowing smoke,

Jon

[watsonrx13]

My recommendation is Aircraft stripper. This will remove the paint but not the bondo. The DA sander will remove the bondo.

Here's a shot of my project removing the paint from the rear trunk.

Be careful of removing paint, remember that you have to primer/paint the area that you take down to metal. There are certain areas that are difficult to get to once the paint is removed.

Remember, post plenty of pics and dialog of your restoration.

-- Rob Wason.... www.tampabay914.com

[redshift]

Notice that Rob taped off escape holes, to other surfaces. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

Super clean job man! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)


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[olav]

QUOTE (jonwatts @ Aug 10 2005, 01:55 PM)

Olav, What's your objective here? Changing the color of a car? Restoring a color change car? Those are probably the only two reasons for removing paint. Otherwise the factory paint, 9 times out of 10, is the best primer for a new paint job. Chemical stripper is fine if you're going down to metal, but not a good choice if you're just freshening up a factory paint job. The better approach is to rough it up with a DA sander and re-shoot it. At least I think that was the best advice 10 years ago when I last got to hang out at a paint shop. I haven't heard anything to contradict it despite all the new paint processes that have been developed since then. Hopefully Rick can chime in here since he's a real expert and I'm just blowing smoke, Jon

My car was resprayed by the PO and it wasn't done very well in certain places so I was considering painting it to get it to look uniformly nice.

No color changing.

[Porsche Rescue]

In my experience aircraft stripper (Kleen Strip) softens bondo. I have used it many times and that feature makes for more work.
Miles, how about more detail on "chemical paste stripper". I am not familiar with that product.

[redshift]

It's thicker than aircraft stripper, but same stuff.

Many times, a local furniture refinisher can point you to a local product.

For overhang, and just hard to strip areas, a 1/2-1/2 mix of the stuff is a joy. (paste style and aircraft stripper mixed) Wear CHEM gloves!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

Jim, I do smal areas at a time, and focus... no problem with fillers. You will need to clean areas that feature filler with SLX, couple apps, or similar.


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[Verruckt]

I'm no expert on this, but doesn't bondo absorb ??? If you're not taking it down to metal ALL over, I would worry about that. You could be digging up some very shoddy work (ie bondo)

[jonwatts]

QUOTE (Porsche Rescue @ Aug 10 2005, 03:55 PM)

In my experience aircraft stripper (Kleen Strip) softens bondo. I have used it many times and that feature makes for more work.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)

It doesn't do a good job of removing bondo, but the chemical stripper does get absorbed by it so you have to remove the bondo to make sure you get all the stripper off the car.

I really wouldn't use it unless you feel you have to go down to bare metal (like Rob did). I did this as an alternative to dipping the chassis for a color change.

[redshift]

'Filler' implys the skim coat... and bondo sounds like a welder problem. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

I guess some of us use hammers, and others use scalpels, and magnifying glasses...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)


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