Any of you 6 guys added a valve for oil tank draining? Options

[peteinjp]

Its not a huge deal to separate the hoses but if changing the oil often it would be nice to plumb in a valve or some type of plug to reduce long term wear on the hose seal. Anyone done this? Or any other thoughts?

Pete

[mlindner]

Hi Pete. I fabricated a 90 deg fitting for the oil line so it would not kink when using the oil drain back device. If I make another one I will incorporate a drain plug in it. Best, Mark

[peteinjp]

So you just cut the stock hose to make that correct? What does a check valve do for you?

[mate914]

Some off the 6 engines need a check valve to stop oil from the tank emptying into engine (lots of smoke upon start up).

Matt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

So you just cut the stock hose to make that correct? What does a check valve do for you?

[Cairo94507]

Not going to lie, I would like to add a drain valve into the tank line to make oil changes quicker and easier. Just need to remember to safety wire it after you close it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914dave]

i have the parts to do this. My plumbing is braided stainless. I plan on adding it between the tank and the engine on the frame behind the trailing arm. I'm working on the safety wire setup.

[Steve]

I don't have a picture handy, but I have a an-16 male welded on the oil engine oil cooler and a an-16 adapter on the bottom of the tank. This allowed me to install a an-16 "T" with a cap in the oil line. Very easy to change the oil with this setup. Don't have to disconnect any hoses. I have seen somebody in the past install a valve in this line, which is easier than removing the AN-16 cap.

[Biggles]

Definitely recommend doing this in terms of the time saving and preventing the risk of putting any stress on the weld to the engine oil coller in removing the pipes (which was my previous experience).
Mine's a 3.2 with a termostat to the front cooler, but pics show the old set up (with annotations) and new set up with the 3 way ball valve installed (threaded brass plug to the drain hole is not shown as fitted in photo but obv. should be) on the line to the engine cooler. Only issue too with a front oil cooler, as per this set up, is that you can never fully drain the system towards the front, not an issue with regular oil changes.

[Steve]

Definitely recommend doing this in terms of the time saving and preventing the risk of putting any stress on the weld to the engine oil coller in removing the pipes (which was my previous experience).
Mine's a 3.2 with a termostat to the front cooler, but pics show the old set up (with annotations) and new set up with the 3 way ball valve installed (threaded brass plug to the drain hole is not shown as fitted in photo but obv. should be) on the line to the engine cooler. Only issue too with a front oil cooler, as per this set up, is that you can never fully drain the system towards the front, not an issue with regular oil changes.

That is a nice setup!! Where did you find/purchase the valve and "T" from? It's much cleaner than my AN16 "T" and cap.

[Krieger]

I put it on the union for the two oil lines. It works very well and was easy to do. OEM lines and tank on a conversion car.



I had a machinist drill hole and face the surface so it was flat.

[fixer34]

So you just cut the stock hose to make that correct? What does a check valve do for you?

It's been 6 years since I put 1000 miles on my -6, plus I did almost a full drain when I installed a check valve a couple years ago. Doing regular oil changes by disconnecting a hose is not an issue right now.
On a -6 that isn't driven often, the oil in the tank can seep back into the engine sump. If all the seals are tight, it can fill to the point where oil leaks past the rings and you get a lot of blue smoke when starting. In extreme cases, it fills the case to the point where the engine won't start.
With mine, I have a leak somewhere that lets the oil in the case drip onto the garage floor when it gets too full, to the point I used to lose 2-3 quarts over several months. That is why I went with a Rothsport check valve. I still get a leak, but it is on the order of a few tablespoons over a couple months now. 'Some day' I'll fix it, just need to figure out when the some day will be.

[fixer34]

I put it on the union for the two oil lines. It works very well and was easy to do.



I had a machinist face the surface.

This looks like a group buy item...

[Root_Werks]

I put it on the union for the two oil lines. It works very well and was easy to do. OEM lines and tank on a conversion car.

I had a machinist drill hole and face the surface so it was flat.

I really like that! Running stock 914-6 lines and will do the same. Neat idea!

[johnhora]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Very clever..
Nice solution...just put in-between the existing stock lines
OK...who's going to make these (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

@mb911
@Mikey914

[Lucky9146]

Good thread. Unfortunately I did not include a tank drain and have little real estate available to do so for my 6 conversion. This thread will help get me going on re-evaluating my set up. Thanks!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/white914.jpg)

[BillJ]

I would take two immediately. An -12

[Biggles]

Definitely recommend doing this in terms of the time saving and preventing the risk of putting any stress on the weld to the engine oil coller in removing the pipes (which was my previous experience).
Mine's a 3.2 with a termostat to the front cooler, but pics show the old set up (with annotations) and new set up with the 3 way ball valve installed (threaded brass plug to the drain hole is not shown as fitted in photo but obv. should be) on the line to the engine cooler. Only issue too with a front oil cooler, as per this set up, is that you can never fully drain the system towards the front, not an issue with regular oil changes.

That is a nice setup!! Where did you find/purchase the valve and "T" from? It's much cleaner than my AN16 "T" and cap.

Steve. I had some engine work done and the garage did this at the same time. Just google 3 way ball valve. That'll give a good starting point. Dont think its anything special.

[mb911]

I could do them very easily. I have a hundred 30mm fittings still

[porschetub]

Its not a huge deal to separate the hoses but if changing the oil often it would be nice to plumb in a valve or some type of plug to reduce long term wear on the hose seal. Anyone done this? Or any other thoughts?

Pete

Where the hoses join with the male/male union I drilled a hole and threaded it for a plug as appears many have done (my late reply ) ,not keen on using a valve,works pretty well but in reality you don't always get 100% of the old but if you change oil to the right schedule its really not an issue .

[Steve]

Its not a huge deal to separate the hoses but if changing the oil often it would be nice to plumb in a valve or some type of plug to reduce long term wear on the hose seal. Anyone done this? Or any other thoughts?

Pete

Where the hoses join with the male/male union I drilled a hole and threaded it for a plug ,not keen on using a valve,works pretty well .

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I looked around at the 3 way ball valves and they were only rated for 215 degrees.