Visual inspection and testing of FI trigger points, What are your methods |
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Visual inspection and testing of FI trigger points, What are your methods |
echocanyons |
Aug 26 2005, 02:02 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
I have had a progressively worsening problem with part-full load bucking it seems to be worse when the engine is cold.
I have tested/replaced the TPS. Now I am leaning on the FI points being the culprit. How are these tested? What should I look for upon visual inspection? Any other causes for my symptoms? here is what I have gone through trying to nail this down: Ingition improperly set (mine is spot on to factory specs) Possible malfunctioning vac adv (mine seems to function with suction) Fuel pump/filter clog (my tank was recently acid bathed and has a new filter and a inline pressure gauge reads normal at idle and revs while sitting). |
goose2 |
Aug 26 2005, 02:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 976 Joined: 30-March 05 From: Eugene, Oregon Member No.: 3,847 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
The main problem I've seen with trigger points is that the rubbing blocks wear down until they don't open up enough anymore. I've got new life out of old ones by bending the contact point arms (the fixed ones) back equally just a little bit. I'm sure there's a spec on what the proper gap should be somewhere....you could set them up accordingly with them installed and the breaker plate removed. To test, hook up a ohm meter or test light and make sure they are making and breaking reliably. A little buff job with some 400 grit (leave NO residue from abrasives) and a good cleaning with contact cleaner (Radio shack) is a good idea. Make sure the dist. cam is clean and lubed with dialectric lube or dist. lube. When you reinstall them, there may be some play in the mounting. Make sure they're centered and seated nicely. I think new ones are still available too. Other suspects may be TPS, MPS, CHT sensors.
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lapuwali |
Aug 26 2005, 02:23 PM
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#3
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Not another one! Group: Benefactors Posts: 4,526 Joined: 1-March 04 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 1,743 |
Could be lean surge from a bad temp sensor (CHT or IAT).
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BMartin914 |
Aug 26 2005, 02:35 PM
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#4
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||| Group: Members Posts: 1,408 Joined: 30-May 04 From: Oregon Member No.: 2,128 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
You might want to check your harness where the wires enter the connector for the points. My harness was very brittle and cracking to the point where two of the wires were down to thin strands. I had been experiencing an internmittent bucking problem as well (mine was when the engine was warm though). I pulled the harness completely out and repaired all of the problem areas, reinstalled and have had no more problems.
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TravisNeff |
Aug 26 2005, 02:39 PM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) I had similar problems that turned out to be the CHT. Also check your TPS, just disconnect it and try a road test, the engine will be a little sluggish without it, but you can see if the bucking stops or not. It could be an adjustment if it is the TPS |
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redshift |
Aug 26 2005, 02:57 PM
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#6
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Bless the Hell out of you! Group: Members Posts: 10,926 Joined: 29-June 03 Member No.: 869 |
And while I followed the same symptoms, I found a fuel pump relay was not working ON all the time, constantly failing in microsecond bursts, and leaning the mix out... all the time.
If you have a relay with an open cover, you can watch that, and hear it. M |
Allan |
Aug 26 2005, 03:09 PM
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#7
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Teenerless Weenie Group: Members Posts: 8,373 Joined: 5-July 04 From: Western Mesopotamia Member No.: 2,304 Region Association: Southern California |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) |
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echocanyons |
Aug 26 2005, 03:11 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
Great info guys, many of these things I havent though of.
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echocanyons |
Aug 28 2005, 01:53 PM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
I ruled out the trigger points and distributor
I think it was caused by a bad IAT sensor, it seems to work fine now but I havent driven it much yet |
TravisNeff |
Aug 28 2005, 01:57 PM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
IAT Sensor? you mean cht?
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bd1308 |
Aug 28 2005, 02:16 PM
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#11
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Sir Post-a-lot Group: Members Posts: 8,020 Joined: 24-January 05 From: Louisville,KY Member No.: 3,501 |
crapola! i bet that was my problem.....dude why didnt you tell me |
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redshift |
Aug 28 2005, 02:32 PM
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#12
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Bless the Hell out of you! Group: Members Posts: 10,926 Joined: 29-June 03 Member No.: 869 |
Everything was fresh, new, or rebuilt, except the actual relay. It failed, and worked in such a way, that you'd not hear the pump on-off-on-off-on-off....
You should see THOSE relays do the on-off dance. clickclickclickclickclickclickclick. M |
bd1308 |
Aug 28 2005, 02:35 PM
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#13
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Sir Post-a-lot Group: Members Posts: 8,020 Joined: 24-January 05 From: Louisville,KY Member No.: 3,501 |
okay miles, what happened to you AIM membership? did you loose it with the divorce...did the goat take it when she left? |
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echocanyons |
Aug 28 2005, 02:54 PM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
No not the CHT but the thermotime temp sensor, the one on the manifold not the head.
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echocanyons |
Aug 28 2005, 02:55 PM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
I chanced the sensor Miles but no change, im gonna have to take the top off of one so I can use it to check the others.
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IronHillRestorations |
Aug 28 2005, 05:01 PM
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#16
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,731 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
I've seen trigger points that looked OK, but did not ohm out within spec. I don't know what the spec is from memory, but there is one. I guess my point is, unless you see something visually wrong there isn't much of a visual test.
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echocanyons |
Aug 29 2005, 12:50 PM
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#17
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
Thanks Perry I wasnt sure if there was anything to look for with the FI points.
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echocanyons |
Aug 29 2005, 12:53 PM
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#18
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
I drove it t o work this AM and my problem persists and actually seems much worse.
Question> Does the fuel pressure fluctuate under load (ie. driving) rather than just with an increase RPM's in neutral? Can I accurately check the fuel pressure with an inline guage by just reving the RPMS? 32ft/lbs is the magic number right? |
goose2 |
Aug 29 2005, 01:10 PM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 976 Joined: 30-March 05 From: Eugene, Oregon Member No.: 3,847 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
The fuel pressure should remain pretty constant under all conditions. The fuel rail on the drivers side has a "t" in the line between the injectors. Remove the screw plugging it and hook up your gauge here. Be very sure your hook-up doesn't leak (fire hazard). Around 30lbs. is good. The fuel pressure regulator is adjustable. Something else to think about: Often a motor that runs well under little or no load (light throttle), but craps out when you put your foot down a bit, has a weak spark. When you put your foot down, cylinder pressure increases and it takes more juice to fire it. If your problem seems strictly load related. you might re-check all your ignition system.....plugs, points (gap and/or dwell), cap, rotor, condenser, wires, and resistor ends.
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echocanyons |
Aug 29 2005, 01:17 PM
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#20
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,094 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Bay Area, CA Member No.: 7 Region Association: Central California |
I will give the ingiton system a second look.
Would a failing coil produce this effect? |
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