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> Visual inspection and testing of FI trigger points, What are your methods
echocanyons
post Aug 26 2005, 02:02 PM
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I have had a progressively worsening problem with part-full load bucking it seems to be worse when the engine is cold.

I have tested/replaced the TPS.

Now I am leaning on the FI points being the culprit.

How are these tested? What should I look for upon visual inspection?

Any other causes for my symptoms?

here is what I have gone through trying to nail this down:

Ingition improperly set (mine is spot on to factory specs)

Possible malfunctioning vac adv (mine seems to function with suction)

Fuel pump/filter clog (my tank was recently acid bathed and has a new filter and a inline pressure gauge reads normal at idle and revs while sitting).
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goose2
post Aug 26 2005, 02:21 PM
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The main problem I've seen with trigger points is that the rubbing blocks wear down until they don't open up enough anymore. I've got new life out of old ones by bending the contact point arms (the fixed ones) back equally just a little bit. I'm sure there's a spec on what the proper gap should be somewhere....you could set them up accordingly with them installed and the breaker plate removed. To test, hook up a ohm meter or test light and make sure they are making and breaking reliably. A little buff job with some 400 grit (leave NO residue from abrasives) and a good cleaning with contact cleaner (Radio shack) is a good idea. Make sure the dist. cam is clean and lubed with dialectric lube or dist. lube. When you reinstall them, there may be some play in the mounting. Make sure they're centered and seated nicely. I think new ones are still available too. Other suspects may be TPS, MPS, CHT sensors.
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lapuwali
post Aug 26 2005, 02:23 PM
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Could be lean surge from a bad temp sensor (CHT or IAT).
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BMartin914
post Aug 26 2005, 02:35 PM
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You might want to check your harness where the wires enter the connector for the points. My harness was very brittle and cracking to the point where two of the wires were down to thin strands. I had been experiencing an internmittent bucking problem as well (mine was when the engine was warm though). I pulled the harness completely out and repaired all of the problem areas, reinstalled and have had no more problems.
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TravisNeff
post Aug 26 2005, 02:39 PM
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QUOTE (lapuwali @ Aug 26 2005, 12:23 PM)
Could be lean surge from a bad temp sensor (CHT or IAT).

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) I had similar problems that turned out to be the CHT.

Also check your TPS, just disconnect it and try a road test, the engine will be a little sluggish without it, but you can see if the bucking stops or not. It could be an adjustment if it is the TPS
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redshift
post Aug 26 2005, 02:57 PM
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And while I followed the same symptoms, I found a fuel pump relay was not working ON all the time, constantly failing in microsecond bursts, and leaning the mix out... all the time.

If you have a relay with an open cover, you can watch that, and hear it.


M
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Allan
post Aug 26 2005, 03:09 PM
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QUOTE (redshift @ Aug 26 2005, 01:57 PM)
ON

M

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif)
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echocanyons
post Aug 26 2005, 03:11 PM
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Great info guys, many of these things I havent though of.


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echocanyons
post Aug 28 2005, 01:53 PM
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I ruled out the trigger points and distributor

I think it was caused by a bad IAT sensor, it seems to work fine now but I havent driven it much yet


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TravisNeff
post Aug 28 2005, 01:57 PM
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IAT Sensor? you mean cht?
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bd1308
post Aug 28 2005, 02:16 PM
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QUOTE (redshift @ Aug 26 2005, 02:57 PM)
And while I followed the same symptoms, I found a fuel pump relay was not working ON all the time, constantly failing in microsecond bursts, and leaning the mix out... all the time.

If you have a relay with an open cover, you can watch that, and hear it.


M

crapola!

i bet that was my problem.....dude why didnt you tell me

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redshift
post Aug 28 2005, 02:32 PM
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Everything was fresh, new, or rebuilt, except the actual relay. It failed, and worked in such a way, that you'd not hear the pump on-off-on-off-on-off....

You should see THOSE relays do the on-off dance. clickclickclickclickclickclickclick.


M
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bd1308
post Aug 28 2005, 02:35 PM
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QUOTE (redshift @ Aug 28 2005, 02:32 PM)
Everything was fresh, new, or rebuilt, except the actual relay. It failed, and worked in such a way, that you'd not hear the pump on-off-on-off-on-off....

You should see THOSE relays do the on-off dance. clickclickclickclickclickclickclick.


M

okay miles, what happened to you AIM membership?


did you loose it with the divorce...did the goat take it when she left?
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echocanyons
post Aug 28 2005, 02:54 PM
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No not the CHT but the thermotime temp sensor, the one on the manifold not the head.

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echocanyons
post Aug 28 2005, 02:55 PM
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I chanced the sensor Miles but no change, im gonna have to take the top off of one so I can use it to check the others.

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IronHillRestorations
post Aug 28 2005, 05:01 PM
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I've seen trigger points that looked OK, but did not ohm out within spec. I don't know what the spec is from memory, but there is one. I guess my point is, unless you see something visually wrong there isn't much of a visual test.
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echocanyons
post Aug 29 2005, 12:50 PM
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Thanks Perry I wasnt sure if there was anything to look for with the FI points.

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echocanyons
post Aug 29 2005, 12:53 PM
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I drove it t o work this AM and my problem persists and actually seems much worse.


Question>

Does the fuel pressure fluctuate under load (ie. driving) rather than just with an increase RPM's in neutral?

Can I accurately check the fuel pressure with an inline guage by just reving the RPMS?

32ft/lbs is the magic number right?
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goose2
post Aug 29 2005, 01:10 PM
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The fuel pressure should remain pretty constant under all conditions. The fuel rail on the drivers side has a "t" in the line between the injectors. Remove the screw plugging it and hook up your gauge here. Be very sure your hook-up doesn't leak (fire hazard). Around 30lbs. is good. The fuel pressure regulator is adjustable. Something else to think about: Often a motor that runs well under little or no load (light throttle), but craps out when you put your foot down a bit, has a weak spark. When you put your foot down, cylinder pressure increases and it takes more juice to fire it. If your problem seems strictly load related. you might re-check all your ignition system.....plugs, points (gap and/or dwell), cap, rotor, condenser, wires, and resistor ends.
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echocanyons
post Aug 29 2005, 01:17 PM
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I will give the ingiton system a second look.

Would a failing coil produce this effect?
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