Was looking for parasitic loss…, Tested today Options

[jim_hoyland]

Bob and I tested for a parasitic drain today; about a week ago engine wouldn’t turn over Hadn’t left anything on.
Today’s test we got 3.28 micro amps . The meter was connected to the battery neg post and system ground.

Seemed ok ?

[worn]

Bob and I tested for a parasitic drain today; about a week ago CDR wouldn’t turn over Hadn’t left anything on.
Today’s test we got 3.28 micro amps . The meter was connected to the battery neg post and system ground.

Seemed ok ?

That doesn’t seem like much. Do you have a clock? Also, I am a bit slow in the uptake. What does CDR mean?

[dtmehall]

i think that a lot more background info would help.


why are you measuring for this? the reading you gave is nothing

how long do you leave the car sitting?

[jim_hoyland]

Typo : CDR, meant car engine
The car normally get trickle charge when not driven and I drive about 50 miles a week.
The morning it wouldn’t start, I didn’t have the trickle charger on.

[L-Jet914]

How old is the battery? Was the battery fully charged when performing your parasitic draw test? A discharged battery will cause inaccurate readings. When you mean microamps, do you mean milliamps? 3.2mA is very low and not enough to kill a battery. Where as 3.2microamps is 0.0032mA (milliamps). On today's vehicles 50mA or less is nominal. Anything higher and the battery will discharge in about a week or less. I've always tested parasitic draw by connecting the positive lead to the positive battery post and then the negative lead to the positive battery cable, and then remove the positive battery cable. Grant it you can do it on the negative side with the negative lead on the negative battery terminal and the positive lead on the negative battery cable.

[jim_hoyland]

Optima 34R, at least 10 yr old, test was done on fully charged battery.

[ctc911ctc]

How old is the battery? Was the battery fully charged when performing your parasitic draw test? A discharged battery will cause inaccurate readings. When you mean microamps, do you mean milliamps? 3.2mA is very low and not enough to kill a battery. Where as 3.2microamps is 0.0032mA (milliamps). On today's vehicles 50mA or less is nominal. Anything higher and the battery will discharge in about a week or less. I've always tested parasitic draw by connecting the positive lead to the positive battery post and then the negative lead to the positive battery cable, and then remove the positive battery cable. Grant it you can do it on the negative side with the negative lead on the negative battery terminal and the positive lead on the negative battery cable.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[Superhawk996]

Just not enough info. Details matter.

[76-914]

Jim, This is what LJet914 was describing but with pics. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uW5e-sLK0o


But do this test 1st. Especially since it is an old battery!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRvlS6EC15U

[jim_hoyland]

Thanks Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
The second uTube is very good; it analyzes a dozen battery testers and is a big help[. I ended cup ordering an Angel for $37.00.
I think this tester will tell the true condition of myun10 yr old Optima 34R

[davep]

Considering a 10 year old battery, I would guess that the battery has lost most of it capacity. I noticed that on my own car one time when it would not run an electric cooler for longer than an hour (@5 amps) but would always start the car. When I replaced the battery I could run the cooler for 8 hours and still start the car.

[JOEPROPER]

When tested correctly anything below 0.05 Amps is acceptable. !0 year old battery should be replaced. I would replace the battery and retest. Test alternator output too and don't forget to check all critical connections.

[jim_hoyland]

Good tips( thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Did you just put the probes on the negative battery post and the engine ground? With the battery ground strap connected?

Doing this will give you a very low reading that is basically meaningless. You need to disconnect the battery ground, then put the ammeter in between the battery post and a chassis ground. The most convenient one being the negative battery terminal.

Unless you're using a very fancy "amp clamp" type of meter, an ammeter will only measure the current that is passing through it.

--DD

[L-Jet914]

Optima 34R, at least 10 yr old, test was done on fully charged battery.

The oldest Optima I had in my car was 11yrs old before it no longer accepted a charge. I always put it on a battery maintainer after I parked my 914 in my garage for the day. I replaced it and that one only lasted about 2 years before I replaced it under warranty. I am on my 3rd Optima yellow top. I think your 34R is just tired due to age and it's time to replace it. 10 years is pretty good for a battery.

[jim_hoyland]

Did you just put the probes on the negative battery post and the engine ground? With the battery ground strap connected?

Doing this will give you a very low reading that is basically meaningless. You need to disconnect the battery ground, then put the ammeter in between the battery post and a chassis ground. The most convenient one being the negative battery terminal.

Unless you're using a very fancy "amp clamp" type of meter, an ammeter will only measure the current that is passing through it.

--DD

OK; the battery ground was disconnected 1st, one probe was set on battery neg post, the other probe was attached to the battery’s ground cable.

[Root_Werks]

Did you just put the probes on the negative battery post and the engine ground? With the battery ground strap connected?

Doing this will give you a very low reading that is basically meaningless. You need to disconnect the battery ground, then put the ammeter in between the battery post and a chassis ground. The most convenient one being the negative battery terminal.

Unless you're using a very fancy "amp clamp" type of meter, an ammeter will only measure the current that is passing through it.

--DD

OK; the battery ground was disconnected 1st, one probe was set on battery neg post, the other probe was attached to the battery’s ground cable.

Yup, that's correct. Make sure NOT to turn on headlights or other large draw items. You'll either pop the fuse in your multimeter or burn it. It should say what max amp it can read.

Had a parasitic drain on an L-Jet 2.0 many years ago. Wound up being the double relay. Just had to unplug relays and remove fuses one at a time until the drain went away.

[jim_hoyland]

Got my battery tester today and made a their preliminary test:

[ClayPerrine]

I made this for an Okteenerfest tech session. It works.





It is cheap, and will find that pesky draw in your car. Just install it, and hook up your DVOM. Then start removing fuses. If the draw is still there, start by disconnecting the 4 red wires from the positive battery post, Hook them up one at a time. When the draw comes back, see what still works to find out which circuit it's using.

I have the black Fluke current probe, and while it is very accurate, I find it always has dead batteries when I need it. I have put in the home made current shunt, and the Fluke amp probe to compare them. They are within 1% of each other when tested.

[ClayPerrine]

If you want the MS Word copy of the document, PM me your email and I will send it to you.