New to the board. Big Problem?........ |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
New to the board. Big Problem?........ |
Dominic L |
Sep 3 2005, 07:20 AM
Post
#1
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 9-July 05 From: Little Falls, NJ. Member No.: 4,393 |
First post here, but I've been lurking here for some time now! Anyway I'm the proud owner of a 1975 914 set up for autocross with a serious oil leak coming from the cylinder, (i think). Could i have a cracked cylinder? The oil (and also looks like exhaust pulses) is coming out between the 3rd and 4th cooling fin on the # 3 cylinder. Pics are attached of the cylinder (circle around the area where the oil is landing) and the underside of the tin. The oily area on the tin is from the same cylinder (#3). I planned on a rebuild (the car sat in a garage for three years) over the winter but i hoped to autocross it once or twice before the winter. Please help. I'm having withdrawl pains from lack of autocross!!
Thanks, Dominic Attached image(s) |
Dominic L |
Sep 3 2005, 07:20 AM
Post
#2
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 9-July 05 From: Little Falls, NJ. Member No.: 4,393 |
Pic of tin
Attached image(s) |
Joe Bob |
Sep 3 2005, 07:38 AM
Post
#3
|
Retired admin, banned a few times Group: Members Posts: 17,427 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 5 Region Association: None |
Is it dripping down on the pavement? If not...that's NOT a serious leak.
|
qa1142 |
Sep 3 2005, 07:39 AM
Post
#4
|
Whiplash Group: Members Posts: 1,514 Joined: 1-June 04 From: Lake Zurich, Illinois Member No.: 2,140 |
Check Oil presure sender first. They crack and leak often.
This would leak it that exact area. |
DNHunt |
Sep 3 2005, 07:48 AM
Post
#5
|
914 Wizard? No way. I got too much to learn. Group: Members Posts: 4,099 Joined: 21-April 03 From: Gig Harbor, WA Member No.: 598 |
Take this for what is worth. Free advice ain't worth much. It looks like the cylinder to head seal is gone. A rebuild looks like a good winter project. I'm kind of conservative so I'd probably not run it, but AX is sure a nice way to stir up the hemarhoids. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif)
Dave |
Dominic L |
Sep 3 2005, 07:56 AM
Post
#6
|
||
Member Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 9-July 05 From: Little Falls, NJ. Member No.: 4,393 |
Drips about 1 drop every 5 seconds down on the pushrod tube and then the header. Burns before it reaches the pavement!! After the engine cools the residual hits the pavement. |
||
Bleyseng |
Sep 3 2005, 08:00 AM
Post
#7
|
||
Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,035 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
if this is the case Dave then he has a ring problem to blow that much oil out of the head to cylinder seal. My guess is the oil pressure sender also as its right above that. I just fixed that on the Westy. |
||
Dominic L |
Sep 3 2005, 08:06 AM
Post
#8
|
||
Member Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 9-July 05 From: Little Falls, NJ. Member No.: 4,393 |
Now this makes some sense but will clean oil appear on the fins if it came from the seal area. BTW i retorqued the top head nuts to 23 ft lbs and the leak got worse. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/huh.gif) Will, sender is dry as a bone. Thanks to all. |
||
Bleyseng |
Sep 3 2005, 08:10 AM
Post
#9
|
Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,035 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Do a compression test to see what that cylinder is compared to the rest.
|
Dominic L |
Sep 3 2005, 08:10 AM
Post
#10
|
||||
Member Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 9-July 05 From: Little Falls, NJ. Member No.: 4,393 |
My sender is above the # 4 cylinder next to the distributor. It's dry to touch but Ill check it when it's running. Maybe the fan is blowing the oil over the # 3 cylinder. Thanks |
||||
DNHunt |
Sep 3 2005, 08:16 AM
Post
#11
|
914 Wizard? No way. I got too much to learn. Group: Members Posts: 4,099 Joined: 21-April 03 From: Gig Harbor, WA Member No.: 598 |
You're right Geoff. That would be a huge amount of oil getting by the rings to drip every 5 sec. By the way I have been there. With that much oil in the cylinders it will barely run and under compression it will foul plugs. Maybe the cooling air is blowing the oil from the oil pressure sensor onto # 3.
Dave |
Katmanken |
Sep 3 2005, 09:12 AM
Post
#12
|
You haven't seen me if anybody asks... Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Dominic,
Not good to retourque just the upper head nuts, These aircooled engines require a specific cross torquing sequence on ALL the head nuts on one side. Tightening the upper head nuts will unbalance the head/cylinder clamping force and at worst case, cause a head leak or oval a bearing in the engine. That is, the clamp force on the upper side is probably higher on the top than the bottom. I am extremely anal in head torquing- a bunch of old VW autocross guys taught me. I use the cross pattern torquing sequence but unlike the manual, do both sides of the engine and do it in 5in/lb increments. That is, if I start on one head nut, I torque to 5 in/lb then I go to the opposing side of the engine and torque the exact opposing head nut on the other side to 5 in/lb. Then back to the first side and next nut.... and back to the second side ....and first side... and second side.. Takes me a while going back and forth but never had any problems later. The guys that taught me built a 176 hp (at the rear wheels) bug engine for autocross. Ken |
Dominic L |
Sep 3 2005, 09:29 AM
Post
#13
|
||
Member Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 9-July 05 From: Little Falls, NJ. Member No.: 4,393 |
Uh oh! So that's probably why since i did that I'm getting puff's of exhaust pulsing in the area. Thanks for the tip. I'll redo all the head nuts and see what happens. Btw Dave, the plugs read fine on all cylinders. Definitely no oil fouling. Guess I'll just keep looking till i find it. Going under the car now. Thanks again, Dominic |
||
Katmanken |
Sep 3 2005, 10:12 AM
Post
#14
|
You haven't seen me if anybody asks... Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Have a Haynes manual? It has the torquing sequence and it's not cross torquing per cylinder (like a wheel ) but rather cross torquing in a funky sequence across each head. Any aircooled vw engine uses the same sequence so if you have a VW manual, go for it.
Not sure if your engine has head gaskets or not. Might want to pull the retorqued head and look to see if they leak. Big battle here on whether to use them or not. If you use them, make sure they are on both sides. If they are there, prolly easiest to keep using them (unless the head is pitted). That way you won't have to screw with valvetrain geometry. Ken |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 1st June 2024 - 06:53 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |