Fuel Line Update, Winter Project Options

[SteveL]

74 1.8 - I previously replaced the 3-port fuel pump with a 2-port pump, mounted to the engine firewall. I have since sent the 3-port pump in for rebuild and have it back.
I have been fighting fueling issues for a long time - fuel pressure drops to 0, engine bogs down/dies. Wait a couple minutes and starts again. I'm down to assuming that there must be a fuel line kink, or a fuel line collapsing somewhere.
SO - winter project - All New Fuel Lines.
I need some help from the collective brain trust please. Do I:

1: Move fuel pump to frunk by spare tire, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else
2: Leave fuel pump on engine firewall, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else
3: Revert back to stock setup with 3-port pump, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else

To complete the above - what do I need to order for the stainless line update, and who is the best to order from? Are they all made by the same person, or are there differences? (and do I need the reducing stainless line from CFR?)

Thank you in advance for all the help - Steve

[jhynesrockmtn]

I would vote for 1. In my 1970, I've been running a 2 port for a few years. I used a mounting kit from Tangerine Racing that placed it near the steering rack. I also used his lines. He's really good to work with. I put it near the rack because some PO had mounted a pump to the rack itself with some zip ties so the wiring was there already. I don't think the 2 port is your issue unless it is old and not functioning.

If your fuel tank isn't in really good shape, sediment can settle when parked, then get kicked up when moving and clog the fuel sock in the tank. I had this issue and it would start fine, then once moving die.

[mepstein]

CFR/tangerine racing has everything you need and Chris is a great resource. Just call or email him and he’ll put together a kit to make it easy. He’s supported our cars for decades and is great to work with.

[914werke]

Here is an option. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) KIT

[Artfrombama]

74 1.8 - I previously replaced the 3-port fuel pump with a 2-port pump, mounted to the engine firewall. I have since sent the 3-port pump in for rebuild and have it back.
I have been fighting fueling issues for a long time - fuel pressure drops to 0, engine bogs down/dies. Wait a couple minutes and starts again. I'm down to assuming that there must be a fuel line kink, or a fuel line collapsing somewhere.
SO - winter project - All New Fuel Lines.
I need some help from the collective brain trust please. Do I:

1: Move fuel pump to frunk by spare tire, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else
2: Leave fuel pump on engine firewall, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else
3: Revert back to stock setup with 3-port pump, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else

To complete the above - what do I need to order for the stainless line update, and who is the best to order from? Are they all made by the same person, or are there differences? (and do I need the reducing stainless line from CFR?)

Thank you in advance for all the help - Steve

I am far from an expert, but I also have a 74 and have had my share of fuel delivery problems. I did replace my OEM fuel lines with stainless, 4 pcs from Pelican. My three port pump was rebuilt when I bought the car and works great! One hot day my car wouldn't start, I thought the notorious 914 vapor lock but turned out to be a kinked fuel line underneath the tank.
I've never had a vapor lock problem with the stock pump in the factory location and I live in the Sunny South.
Your results may vary.
I have installed a fuel pressure gauge visible from outside the car "just in case".

[JamesM]

Pump in the front somewhere under the tank

Absolute must, Porsche /VW figured this out as the solution in 1975

Other things you should do, eliminate any pre pump filters and use a high pressure low micron post pump filter. VW figured this addition out later on in the 80s.

Start there.

[KSCarrera]

I have been fighting fueling issues for a long time - fuel pressure drops to 0, engine bogs down/dies. Wait a couple minutes and starts again.

That sounds like a lack of fuel tank venting - check the vent line isn't kinked or blocked. You could also try driving with the gas cap loosened a couple of turns to see if the problem reoccurs.

[VaccaRabite]

2 port pump over 3 port pump.
Move it up front.
Get and use the stainless hardlines for the tunnel.
Get some nickel copper tubing and make some hardlines for under the tank. This will permanently resolve kinking issues.
Use properly sized fuel injection clamps. Not the cheap worm drive clamps.
Use proper fuel hose. DO NOT use the German cloth braid hose. Even if it says its ethanol tolerable. Get hose that is printed with the correct SAE cert for your application (at least 30r9 hose if you are fuel injected or 30r7 hose if you are carbed - though some makers warrant their 30r7 hose to over 100psi).

Zach

[SteveL]

Here is an option. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) KIT

Rich -

How much for the kit without the fuel pump included? I already have 2 known good 2-port fuel pumps (one still in the box).

Thanks

[TRP]

I picked up the 4 piece kit from Chris, comes with everything you need. Get the one for 75 and up because its design for cars with the pump up front. Mak3 the rubber lines long enough so that you can loop them so they dont kink. It is a straight forward install.

[wonkipop]

if you do go for fuel pump up front don't forget to wire it up correctly so it preserves its "safety" function. the fuel pump only comes on when you start cranking the ignition on an L jet. not when you turn key to on position. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

means your fuel pump automatically stops running when the engine stops running even if ignition is on. helpful in a crash (heaven forbid) or if you get an engine fire (heaven forbid).

i've left my fuel pump in stock location even after doing the fuel lines through tunnel to metal lines. like @Artfrombama have not had vapor lock problems. never had vapor lock problems before that either. stock 74 L jet. but i have shrouded the section of metal line that emerges from the tunnel and travels along the rear passenger cabin firewall section with reflective insulation. i figure that metal line being no longer plastic was an item that might now boil fuel after hot shutdown.