![]() |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
billd |
![]()
Post
#1
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 327 Joined: 25-May 05 From: Palo Alto, CA Member No.: 4,145 ![]() |
Any tips on how to install plastic A-arm bushings. They seem to be an extremely tight fit. Do I need to press/pound them on?
|
Mueller |
![]()
Post
#2
|
914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,155 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
no, there is not an easy way.....
the proper way is to press them into the "collars", then ream the ID of the bushing to fit onto the a-arm Chris Foley sells them in the Resource area with zerk fittings pre-installed. |
billd |
![]()
Post
#3
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 327 Joined: 25-May 05 From: Palo Alto, CA Member No.: 4,145 ![]() |
I've already got them pressed into the collars. I just need to get them onto the A-arm.
Two questions: 1. When I ream them out, how much clearance should I leave. That is, if I measure the A-arm to be x-mm in diameter should I ream the bushings to be x-0.2 mm ? Is 0.2mm the right clearance, or should it be more or less? 2. What should I use to ream them out. Do I need to get a machine shop to do this, or can this be done with available tools? Thanks, ----Bill |
gopack |
![]()
Post
#4
|
CHEESEHEAD in CA, MARK ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 744 Joined: 7-August 04 From: Folsom, CA Member No.: 2,472 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Buy the Elephant Racing Poly bronze bushings! easy as pie to install! any one got these on a street car?
|
Grngoat |
![]()
Post
#5
|
Lurker Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 17-October 04 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 2,967 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Yeah, I do. I installed them about a year ago when I rebuilt the front suspension. I love them. They don't squeek or bind like the plastic weltmeisters that were in there before. The rear still has the weltmeisters, so it squeeks like hell. I'll replace them when I get the chance.
|
andys |
![]()
Post
#6
|
Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
After some research, I was told that squeaking is mostly a result of too much axial or radial pre-load (interference fit). Though it's a little unclear as to what is exactly the right amount, the tech folks at Energy Suspensions say their poly bushings rarely squeak unless too much pre-load is employed.
Andys |
Grngoat |
![]()
Post
#7
|
Lurker Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 17-October 04 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 2,967 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
I believe that is probably true. The weltmeisters that were in my car were very tight. With the car on a lift and the top strut bolt removed, you could hang on the A-arm and it would barely budge. But they aren't polyurathane either. I have poly bushings in my GTO, and they are fine. The weltmeisters are a hard plastic, with no compliance at all like poly bushings. If you are using real polyurathane bushings on a 914, then they would probably work much better than the plastic ones do. I am real happy with the Elephant bushings, but real poly may work fine, and needle bearings might be even better. Dunno. Just hate the plastic ones.
|
andys |
![]()
Post
#8
|
||
Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Both the hard Welt's and the soft Energy bushings are polyurethane. The soft Energy bushings are 90 Shore A scale hardness, and the hard ones (Welt's) are 70 Shore D scale hardness. The "D" scale is much harder than the "A" scale. It very well could be that the harder material is more prone to squeaking, but the same rule of pre-load applies to them. I've installed the (hard) Welt's on my trailing arms, and adjusted the re-load....once I get the car on the ground, all this theory will be put to rest!! Andys |
||
billd |
![]()
Post
#9
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 327 Joined: 25-May 05 From: Palo Alto, CA Member No.: 4,145 ![]() |
How much clearance is needed when I ream them out. Is 5mils over a good size, or is this too much slop?
|
r_towle |
![]()
Post
#10
|
Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
I did three sets on my car...
First one squeaked...so did the second one... third one... I made it so that the a-arm was free to move the entire range of motion with zero binding...it was a trial and error method with a dremel, using a sanding wheel... Then, once they fit, cut a figure 8 inside the bushing using a dremel with a small 1/8 inch carving bit. the figure 8 intersection should end up in the middle and be the place that you put the zerk fitting... This is where you will religiously grease the bushing...it over comes an chance of squeaking. Rich |
SirAndy |
![]()
Post
#11
|
Resident German ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 42,205 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
just get a set of müllers roller bearings ...
i know, i know, i'm not much help here ... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif) Andy |
Bleyseng |
![]()
Post
#12
|
Aircooled Baby! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 13,036 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Polys suck as they dry out after a year.
Elephant bearing are really nice. Mueller bearings are really nice. They still available?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif) |
ChrisFoley |
![]()
Post
#13
|
I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,986 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Even with a great deal of work the Weltmeister material leaves a lot to be desired. One of the big problems with pressed in bushings is the fact that the housings aren't very round to begin with and the bushings become ovalized inside.
Black Delrin is about the best material available for the job. Machineable, self lubricating, good hardness, not brittle. Unless you are a HD DIYer what I offer is better than any other choice IMO. It's comparable to needle bearings in ride but less expensive. The fronts I ream after pressing into the housings and for the rears I ream the housings so the bushings fit perfectly. |
ClayPerrine |
![]()
Post
#14
|
Life's been good to me so far..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 16,314 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille ![]() ![]() |
Put them in and ream them so that the arm moves freely. Make sure the arm is spotlessly clean, and use some "elephant snot" lubricant on the inside of the bushings.
No squeak. |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 9th May 2025 - 02:09 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |